http://forums.turbobricks.com/ Turbobricks.com The Performance Volvo Community en Mon, 06 Sep 2010 11:14:32 GMT vBulletin 60 http://forums.turbobricks.com/images/turbo/misc/rss.jpg http://forums.turbobricks.com/ http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216130&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 10:53:38 GMT Is the clocking of the 15g the same as the 13c? When bolted in place of the 13c will the compressor housing line up with the intercooler ducting? Will the turbine housing be in the right direction? How much boost pressure can the stock fuel sys. support? ... Is the clocking of the 15g the same as the 13c? When bolted in place of the 13c will the compressor housing line up with the intercooler ducting? Will the turbine housing be in the right direction? How much boost pressure can the stock fuel sys. support?

Thanks Cliff ]]> bigreddog http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216130 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216126&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 09:08:21 GMT I'm looking to get some good, reasonably priced all season performance tires for my multi-x's. I really don't know jack squat about tires but i believe i've got it down to two choices.

Bridgestone Potenza RE960 AS Pole Position in 205/60/15

or

Kuhmo Ecsta ASX in 205/55/15

From the reviews i've read the potenza's seem to be a bit better tire (better wet traction mainly, which is important living in portland) and thus the obvious choice, but i've also heard a lot of talk that 205/55/15 is the best size tire for multi-x's (15x7). That being said, would the lower profile of the kuhmos give me enough benefits to choose them over the potenzas? Any other advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

-Shane ]]> STM240 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216126 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216119&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 05:41:20 GMT Hi all finally got another 245 and I got a few questions. It's a DL and thank god it has power locks. I want to add keyless entry. From what I've read I need to add another actuator out of the passenger door? Is It really straight forward on installing keyless entry? I installed a cliford unit on my land cruiser and plan on installing the same one on the 240 so I can use one remote for both cars.

Also the auto gear shift surround is broken and I have another one to replace it. but I can't figure out how to take the gear shifter off? Any ideas?

I'll add some pictures of it later. ]]> 242teeI http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216119 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216115&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 04:55:20 GMT Hello everyone, I have a 1987 volvo 740 turbo and the manual shows the fuel tank as having a capacity of 60 liters (~15.85 Gallons). When the needle reaches the red area (reserve on fuel gauge) I go and fill up and the car only fills up to ~45 litres (~11.8 Gallons). Is the gauge defective or is... Hello everyone, I have a 1987 volvo 740 turbo and the manual shows the fuel tank as having a capacity of 60 liters (~15.85 Gallons). When the needle reaches the red area (reserve on fuel gauge) I go and fill up and the car only fills up to ~45 litres (~11.8 Gallons). Is the gauge defective or is there another problem? Also, what should my average MPG or KM/liter be? I average around ~350 KM's on 45 liters of gas. ]]> manjiman http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216115 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216114&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 04:43:44 GMT Anyone ever use them? Anyone ever use them? ]]> WindowsBreakerG4 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216114 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216111&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 04:00:00 GMT 1989 244 N/A, automatic, bone stock. Check Engine light came on to stay about 6 weeks after I bought the car. Pulled code 2-1-2, O2 sensor reading. Replaced sensor. Someone said the 12v heater may/may not be the cause, so I probed around to see if I was getting 12v and a ground. No luck, but the... 1989 244 N/A, automatic, bone stock. Check Engine light came on to stay about 6 weeks after I bought the car. Pulled code 2-1-2, O2 sensor reading. Replaced sensor. Someone said the 12v heater may/may not be the cause, so I probed around to see if I was getting 12v and a ground. No luck, but the car wouldn't start after I finished. Checked codes again, no flashes, just a low light off the LED (in the dark). No spark, no fuel pump running.

ECM is 0 280 000 951. In a bad spot, got to work a couple of days this week and really can't afford rental car. Thanks guys. ]]> osovolante http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216111 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216109&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 03:52:15 GMT So... the other day i was driving, and i`ve noticed that fuel gauge shows full, (i known i didn't had more than half a tank, at some point during the drive, needle started to creep down to approx real level of remaining fuel.
Next day it behave correctly, but yesterday it did something weird again, I`ve started the engine, and the needle went to full again, and when driving it crept a bit down, but at the lights it started to creeping back up :(
what in the hell may be wrong?
where should i start diagnostics? ]]> he3r0 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216109 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216106&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 03:17:03 GMT I have the typical problem of no air coming out the dash vents. I checked all the usual suspects and could find no vacuum leaks from the intake manifold to the firewall. I plugged the yellow vacuum line at the vacuum diaphragm and still no dash airflow. While checking the vacuum lines at the... I have the typical problem of no air coming out the dash vents. I checked all the usual suspects and could find no vacuum leaks from the intake manifold to the firewall. I plugged the yellow vacuum line at the vacuum diaphragm and still no dash airflow.

While checking the vacuum lines at the vacuum solenoid behind the glove box I found that by wiggling the solenoid I could hear clicking, vacuum noise and then the dash vents would blow air for a while. Then more clicking and vacuum noise and no dash air.

It appears the problem is in the solenoid. I suspect that I have bad solder joints at the plug connection to the circuit board in the solenoid.

A picture of the vacuum solenoid was posted by smurf244 in this thread:

http://www.turbobricks.org/forums/sh...d.php?t=214780

Does anyone have suggestions on how to remove the solenoid? Do I take loose the individual vacuum lines or do I unscrew the plate that holds the vacuum line manifold to the solenoid?

Suggestions on how to resolder the plug or any other info is appreciated. ]]> peteco http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216106 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216105&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 03:14:34 GMT I've begun offering some new grill badge covers in polyurethane. Starting off slowly and I'll be expanding sizes and designs as I can afford.

I would like to hear from those of you interested in particular sizes, etc.
Thanks,
Dave
http://www.davebarton.com/VolvoStick...domedpolygrill
]]> showroom dbarton http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216105 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216104&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 03:07:51 GMT I'm torn...

use the low mileage 94 squirter motor (NA, EGR) and weld up the EGR ports on the head, drop in to beater ?

OR

drop in the low mileage 86 b230f that ran great in the trucka (nolans old engine)



goodies:

ms 1 v2.2
srt 4 injectors
unitek ph1 cam
ebay t04e
ect

fuel is e85, boost will be moderate.

run the squirter motor ?

or run the oldie' and save the nice motor for the 242 +T+S

if I blow up the b230f, no harm no foul hey? ]]> DNAsEqUeNcE http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216104 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216101&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:34:01 GMT Hope you guys enjoy this, I am always inspired by some of the talented metalworkers here.I made this from an aluminum plate a while ago. It's been on the car for over a year, and works well. It definitely makes a difference in throttle response, the throttle opens a decent amount more for the same amount of pressure on the gas. I don't have any pics of the adapter before I mounted it for porting.

Here it is after the rough cuts with a hole saw
http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC00100.jpg

http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC00102.jpg

I was able to increase the size of the intake by 7 mm, any more and the sealing surface is getting thin, lol.

After porting, trimming the lower gasket
http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC00151.jpg

The difference is noticeable, haha.
http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC00154.jpg

The throttle stop arm is from the 740tb, cut down for a cleaner look. The other is the 960 arm, these are stacked on each other.

Installed on the car
http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC00155.jpg

http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/DSC00159.jpg

The TPS now faces the other way, which makes the TPS harness not fit. The brake booster nipple is there. I "temporarily" solved this by cutting the plug off and running wires to it. Now the brake booster nipple is plugged off, the line tapped in elsewhere, so I will rewire the factory plug back on. I'll post new pics after I finish with my new engine.

:cheers:
Jason ]]> showroom 2turbotoys http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216101 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216100&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:32:28 GMT So i moved my battery to the trunk and it worked fine for awhile battery died got a new one 650 cold cranking amps and i have a new alternator i believe it is a 90 amp alternator and i guess i just need an amp gauge and an adjustable regulator so it will charge the battery? thanks tim So i moved my battery to the trunk and it worked fine for awhile battery died got a new one 650 cold cranking amps and i have a new alternator i believe it is a 90 amp alternator and i guess i just need an amp gauge and an adjustable regulator so it will charge the battery?

thanks

tim ]]> timpanama http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216100 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216099&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:28:56 GMT Stupid question since I do not have the owner's manual at hand: can anyone describe which of the 3 rows of lights in the tailight of a 90+ 740 do and what are the wire colours? For instance, are both of the bottommost lights brake lights?

Also, where is the tail light ground located? ]]> dalek http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216099 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216098&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:17:53 GMT anyone ever try, or think of trying to do this. Sellholm sells a kit to convert the 1031 to floating, but its $1700 bucks. I'm thinking I might possibly be able to make this on the cheap, except for the cost of custom axles. I'll prob try and use 850 hubs as I believe this is what sellholm uses. If possible I might even be able to respline stock axles if they're long enough, or find 27 spline axles from some other source, cut and respline for 850 hubs. Ideas? suggestions? ]]> shaved240 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216098 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216097&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 02:13:10 GMT so i moved to school a few weeks ago. I was hoping i'd be able to bring the volvo, but the week before, it started acting up horribly. in the few months before school, i replaced everything fuel and ignition....fuel pump, filter, ignition coil thing, and plugs/wires. it ran perfect for a month or so, then a week before i moved, it had a problem dieing. once it heated up all the way, it would just die. then, i'd have to wait about 45 minutes before it would start up again. then, it would only last 5 minutes before it died again.

I've been told its the regina ignition coil thing, but we got a brand new one. what else could it be? i'd rather have this car at school than the mustang..

thanks!
Stephen ]]> manbeard http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216097