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Tyre width + your power = spinny spinny?

S

Sweep

New member
Joined
Dec 29, 2014
Location
Peterborough - UK
How well do wagons put down power? I'm shooting for 300whp and I'm a little concerned that the Canopus wheels I want to run ain't gonna cut the mustard!

So, what power (butt dyno or real one) are you running, what width wheels are you running and how does she get it down to the tarmac?

Ben.
 
My FWD V70 did ok on 235 width but that is at about half the power you're aiming for. I'm going 17x9.5 wheels for my 745T not sure what width tire I'll have, all depends what fits.
 
the 940 with around 500ish whp does not put the power down with 225 all seasons*






*unless traction control is turned on.
 
Spooling the turbo at the light, at about 5PSI the tires would break loose no matter how hard I was on the brakes. Cheapo 205s, pretty soft but not an ideal tread.
 
linuxman51 said:
Mostly true as well, but one ought to be careful getting weird with compounds. axles don't like certain setups.
Click to expand...

cj.surr said:
Care to elaborate? I don't see the relation between axles and tire compound.
Click to expand...

One assumes that too much grip will have rather devastating effect on the back end, hadn't thought about that! The Canopus wheels I've got are on Parada Spec 2's so relatively sticky.
 
Sweep said:
How well do wagons put down power? I'm shooting for 300whp and I'm a little concerned that the Canopus wheels I want to run ain't gonna cut the mustard!

So, what power (butt dyno or real one) are you running, what width wheels are you running and how does she get it down to the tarmac?

Ben.
Click to expand...

Lots of butt dyno, 195/60/15 on 6.5 wheels. **** traction.
 
Also, suspension setup. 225 45 17 Falken Ziex whatevers will occasionally bust loose in second under stock levels of boost, because dumped ride height on cut springs means not a lot of weight transfer.

:oops:

M.
 
I guess I have around 400+ whp @ 20 PSI. 245-45-17 all seasons Nexen cheapo tires on 17 X 8.5 wheels break loose in a turn at 80 mph if I floor it.
 
No idea on my whp but I would guess 350+whp (did 12.0@114mph and should be 11's now that I have MS), but with 265/35-18's (Federal 595) in the rear it will break them free once the turbo spools and stay spun until 70+mph. That is from a dead stop so lots of lag. If I stall it up and launch at 10psi they just become one with the earth. From a 40mph roll in 2nd gear it will hook until around 5000rpm where it will break them loose.

Either way for 300whp I would want a 235-255 tire and make sure to get a really really good compound. My RE01's that were 235/40-18 hooked great @ 300whp. very little wheel spin when boost would hit. But I added 5psi most boost along with a better header and intake manifold and even when the 265's are new (280 TW) they are still pretty pointless to have on the street. If I ever get my HRE's rebuilt I plan on running either 255 or 265's but with something stupid expensive for a tire ($250+/tire) to get it to hook on the street maybe . . .


Then again suspension design makes a huge difference. Look at what Nathan did on his 940 and it hooks pretty good I hear.
 
cj.surr said:
Care to elaborate? I don't see the relation between axles and tire compound.
Click to expand...


Most axles will hold tons of power with small tires as they just spin so not a lot of abuse. The problem with axles comes when you actualy hook and get traction as depending on how it happens that is what causes things to snap and break.

Using older american cars as an example some people will do fine on a stock axle @ 500whp with smaller tires or tires that love to spin. As soon as they put wide tires or something that hooks the stress that the internals see from that much power to the ground breaks axles and gears.
 
225/45's (either Potenza S04's or Conti DW's), Trutrac, 275whp, 2-1 kickdowns are guaranteed to break them loose no matter what, 1st if it's even remotely wet/paint/turning at heavy throttle will result in some form or another of loss of traction.
 
Suspension setup is key. I run a 275/35/18 RA1. Cold rubber and traction breaks before peak tq. Give them 30 mins on the highway or a burnout in the water box and hold on. From a dig I spin a little but use traction based launch control, on the highway from any roll mph and they take full power at 800+ whp
 
17X7 with 225/45/17 Toyo T1-R tires. 240 wagon with T5 manual and ~350 RWHP turbo 16V motor.

At the track, it's almost always either bog or spin, the perfect launch is very elusive. I need to stick a clutch switch in the car and enable launch control and get a precise RPM, and tweak the bit by bit (although it would change based on temps, track conditions, etc).

If you get into any sort of real boost in 1st gear, it just spins. In second gear, it's not all that hard to get a rolling spin when you floor it (depending on how grippy the pavement is).

Dunno, at the track it's usually a 2.2 or 2.1 60 foot time, which isn't that great. If I'm going up against a pretty quick car it's usually a case of watching them pull away at the launch and then trying to chase them down.

I might try to get traction control working at some point.
 
cj.surr said:
Care to elaborate? I don't see the relation between axles and tire compound.
Click to expand...


Take for instance, the ever popular "ET STREET" radial tire.. I put a set of them in 255/x/16 on my gold car several years ago (stock suspension geometry, but new shocks), they would bounce and jump and hop all over the place doing a burnout, and again going down the track until ~ 2nd gear or about 60mph (give or take).

They were good for a twisted axle about every two passes, give or take (which, became quite the chore, since it would break the opposite side on the next pass if you didn't replace both).

Part of the issue is the compound used, part of the issue is how stiff the sidewall is. Radial tires tend to have stiffer side walls, and as such, don't "give" very well.. so you get a little bit of traction and twist, then it unloads for a bit, grabs again, unloads, grabs, unloads, shocking the hell out of everything at the back end of the car.

switch to bias ply and taller sidewall tires, problem went away. Haven't broken an axle in years now, on either the fast car or the turbo LS car.

Sweep said:
One assumes that too much grip will have rather devastating effect on the back end, hadn't thought about that! The Canopus wheels I've got are on Parada Spec 2's so relatively sticky.
Click to expand...

grip in and of itself isn't the problem. grip with shock will break something almost every time.
 
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