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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

Yes you'd need a distributor with a trigger wheel and sensor in it.

Oh you can't fit the rear head mounted distributor in 240, right?

This is where I'm confused. I have a shortened LH2.2 distributor, which has a 4-window trigger in it with a hall sensor output. Everything I've read about the HEI modules is that they are only a dwell control and not an actual ignition computer with timing curves in it. Like, it needs a trigger to work, but it needs centrifugal advance to alter the timing of the trigger signal to the module. Straight up on it's own it has no timing curve in it. The later 7 and 8 pin HEI modules seem smarter, but it looks like they still need a signal from the ECU to work?
 
The cam carrier is not that bad, just takes some practice. Is there room for an EZK 116 sensor?
I'm using a shortened LH2.2 distributor, since I didn't have access to an LH2.4 flywheel. I'd have to use the LH2.2 EZK (117?) and limit the advance somehow, since every 16v map I can find maxes out at 25* at WOT. I was going to modify the centrifugal distributor to limit the advance but that's clearly not gonna work.

The only reason I am anti-laptop for this car is because I know myself. Given the opportunity, I'm going to be constantly playing with stuff instead of driving it. Carbs force me to accept less-than-100% perfect air/fuels, and a centrifugal distributor just 'worked'. If I could find an AQ171 Renix/Regina ignition module, then that would solve everything...but they are not available in the aftermarket, and the used ones run into the $500 USD mark :(.
 
With ez117k you'll need some way to give it a load signal/pulse. There also exists ez118k in europe which is a standalone ez117k. It uses a manifold pressure line for the load and I assume the distributor hall. you will need to reflash the chip to limit the advance though with any of the ezk

edit: heres a cheap one https://www.ebay.com/itm/233986365369
 
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At that point I'd get a used microsquirt to control spark only and run some carbs. The Aliexpress DCOE knockoffs that KL Racing sells seem to work well from what I gather.

Also, let me know whether you end up wanting some hotter cams.
 
With ez117k you'll need some way to give it a load signal/pulse. There also exists ez118k in europe which is a standalone ez117k. It uses a manifold pressure line for the load and I assume the distributor hall. you will need to reflash the chip to limit the advance though with any of the ezk

edit: heres a cheap one https://www.ebay.com/itm/233986365369

This is interesting, I didn't even consider that. I have an old CIS-injection 'knock-box' from an early Mk2 Golf that seems pretty similar in that it only controlled ignition and had a knock sensor, etc. I could probably retrofit it pretty easily since it only needs a MAP signal too. The downside is there's no information about remapping, vs the Volvo EZK which might be possible. Hmm.
 
At that point I'd get a used microsquirt to control spark only and run some carbs. The Aliexpress DCOE knockoffs that KL Racing sells seem to work well from what I gather.

Also, let me know whether you end up wanting some hotter cams.

Given that DIYAutotune's black friday sale started today, I may just go this way.

Hotter cams? The ones I have are the PZ penta cams, which are still essentially stock stuff...but I'm curious now. What grinds are you referring to?
 
Given that DIYAutotune's black friday sale started today, I may just go this way.

Hotter cams? The ones I have are the PZ penta cams, which are still essentially stock stuff...but I'm curious now. What grinds are you referring to?

I have some old RSI blanks, and some regrinds (currently in the car)...11.2 mm lift, 276 degrees.
 
I have a ezk 118 left over from my car if you want it, the hall setup is pretty simple, I still have a few back of head distributors with those too. It's a basic rotating 4 hole disk, so you could probably move the sensor.

The bits I still have
https://www.marktplaats.nl/plaats/m1774232335/view?c=d721e818194200feca4409741512b6e6

I once read somewhere that if you plug in the block mounted distributor with the hall on this it should also just work. Maybe you could hybrid something with this and the buchka wasted spark, it should still have the same connections inside (5v+, gnd, VR conditioner and ignitor wire) as it also uses the same ignition modules. That would also give you space by mounting the ignition coil elsewhere.

As for the chipping I could take a look inside for you, Cameron (redblockpowered) has been trying silly stuff like using the ezk from a 480 turbo, and the ezk116 bin simply just worked on those
 
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Took a quick look, completely different inside. The processor is a 8041 from intel and the dip28 is actually an ADC chip, so presumably the mapping is set by some resistor combination or just burned in somehow. Hayes says this should be 15deg BTDC base timing for the b230k it came from, so it is quite a lot of advance already in comparison to other b230 engines.
BYIKOMul.jpg


Just realized that the buchka board assumes the flywheel 58-2 pattern, so that won't work either unless the code is altered:-(
 
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Now THAT looks familiar. It seems very similar to the VW knockbox ignition I was talking about. Dual PCB, ribbon cable, no clear 'chip', MAP sensor, etc. I'm going to try to dig it out and check the insides :). Thanks!
 
Well I just dug out an MS2 I was using on the B6304S swap and have decided to just use that. I'm really looking at the cheapest way possible, and since I already have it...

I started assembling the front of the engine today. Swapped the IM shaft to one from a B21 I have on a stand, replaced the IM and crank seals, installed the timing gears, modified the penta front lower cover so I can have timing marks (it's not pretty because you have to cut away the mounting boss for the fresh/salt water pump that runs off the IM shaft, but it works), and started mocking up the brackets to see how it all fits. Going by the water pump pulley, it looks like the AQ171 harmonic balancer is already shaved for use with a B230 bottom end, because everything lines up perfectly so far. This is a nice surprise :).
 
GstkhX5W_o.jpg


Bought a set of Saab 900 plug wires...and they sorta worked. #1 was too short, but I had a blue NGK redblock wire that sacrificed itself for the cause. I had to swap the cap ends over to some slimmer elbows to get everything to fit, but it's done now. I also found a non-rotted water pipe at the junkyard yesterday, on the ONLY redblock car they had. Cleaned it up, gave it a shot of red, and one less part needed for the swap. I have a power steering pump bracket coming, and if I could dig up a non-crappy alternator, I'd have everything I need.
 

Yeah...I gotta say, the look of a 'vintage' DOHC engine really works for me.

Minor update: I de-modded the MS2 back to single coil/hall sender/distributor status and it all seems ready to go. I'll probably wire it into the car as-is to be ready for the swap in the future. It'll give me a way of testing my diy-shortened-LH2.2 dizzy. It's getting pretty cold out already (go Canada!), so I'm not sure when I'll get to it, but we'll see. The garage is insulated but not heated so it takes a while to warm the place up.
 
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