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Old 05-26-2021, 12:53 PM   #277
R32RennSport
Outlaw Amazonian
 
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Atascadero, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
They look great! I would be a little concerned with taking material off the wheel at the pin drive thickness, but I guess you'd just need to be sure that there's enough threads on the adapters and nuts to allow it. Might have to turn down the adapters the same amount as you take off the wheel.

I had a guy ask me to swap some knock off wheels on an Austin Healey because he wanted the offset of some Borrani wire wheels. Turns out that the spline was right, but thickness at the bore was less, and his nuts bottomed out before squeezing the wheels into place. Ended up chucking a spare set of hub adapters in the lathe and taking off 6mm to get decent center lock engagement.

Maybe an EPAS and steering rack would solve steering feel, and bumpsteer stresses, but that seems like a more difficult task than milling the wheel to correct offset issues.

That said, I'm running a 17x9.5 et:+5 and with camber set a little more negative, and caster at -6.5* ish, it self centers well, and is pretty easy to handle at speed with minimal wandering/bump steer. At least with the stock steering wheel, but with the little 13.5" grant that I have on there, its a little harder on the forearms than I'd like, but it is doable.
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I've taken a million measurements and spoken directly with the manufacturer. These wheels are designed for a variety of reproduction car applications so they purposefully designed the mounting pads on the thick side to be machined up to 1/2 inch depending on application.

In my opinion anything wider then 7 inches, especially at the front of the car, is excessive without complete steering and suspension geometry redesign. At 7.5 inches I'm really pushing the balance of looks over performance which is not my motivation. Go drive your favorite road, take off your 9.5 wheels and bolt on a set of even 6 inch wheels and you'll probably ask yourself if you really want to bolt the old set back on. The idea here is to stay as far inside the fenders as possible to retain proper handling characteristics, you really start changing vehicle dynamics by changing a number of alignment planes and adding leverage to both springs and wheel bearings the further past center (0 offset) you go.

The new brake disc and brake drum toolings from VP are much stronger and in my opinion can also take up to 5-8mm off the hats by milling due to their one piece design over the old two piece pressed hubs which was another way to attack the issue as well.
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1966 Outlaw Volvo Amazon, 2004 VW R32 Golf

Last edited by R32RennSport; 05-26-2021 at 03:05 PM..
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