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240 IPD High Output Pre-Pump

I'd personally go with the high output pump.. the stock pump is a very weak pump and prone to failure.

Given the age of the cars, any stock part is now prone to failure :) That alone is not a rationale for higher output on a stock setup. Given that the parts he is referencing are aftermarket, not even OEM supplier, who knows how long they will actually alst.
 
On stock setups that have a pre-pump and external main pump, there is zero benefit to running a higher output in-tank.

I agree (for a stock n/a LH2.2 / 2.4 setup).

Anecdotally...I am using the high output pump with a Kjet main pump without issue, but this really moves way more fuel than is needed for a n/a LH setup, I believe it starts to aerate / heat the fuel when the tank gets low.
 
I have a 1983 245 Turbo where the pre-pump only works when you hit it, but currently the flexible outlet hose is cracked so needs replacing. Thinking of replacing the pump as well, but what's not clear is whether the upgrade kit has to use the short bit of black hose or whether it can take the flexible outlet hose which is designed for more flex.

It seems from the instructions that the upgrade pump mounts in a different way (i.e. held in place by the hose) so needs the stiff hose to hold it there versus the stock pump sitting in the cupholder and taking the flex hose because it can twist around some when the motor kicks on. Is that the correct analysis? (Also noting the fact that the upgrade kit comes with a seal, filter, clamps...)
 
I like replacing both pumps with 1 in tank pump, like a DeatschWerks DW200. I just removed the pressure pump (under car pump) and connected the fittings together. Less parts to go bad. Ya, it's more fuel than you need, but it just returns to the tank so who cares.
 
It seems from the instructions that the upgrade pump mounts in a different way (i.e. held in place by the hose) so needs the stiff hose to hold it there versus the stock pump sitting in the cupholder and taking the flex hose because it can twist around some when the motor kicks on. Is that the correct analysis? (Also noting the fact that the upgrade kit comes with a seal, filter, clamps...)

Yes, the upgrade pump is attached to the sending unit by the supply hose only.

IbhZptWl.png

(upgrade pump attached, stock pump on the right)
 
I ended up going with the upgrade kit but managed to keep using the holder from the original pump by letting the pickup move maybe 3-5mm further down - this gave clearance on the return pipe and also means that the new pump isn't just dangling by clamps, there's a nice sturdy friction fit on the old bracket so between it all there shouldn't be any more issues.

Chasing the bung nut off with a screwdriver and hammer is easy, but chasing it back on is much more difficult. Definitely lubricate the sender top/bung nut interface, but you really need an even rotational torque to get it to sit since the new o-rings are quite sturdy and hard to compress.
 
The truck is wedge a flathead between the locking ring and the ring on the tank and twist to walk the ring back in position. Or just buy the tool.
 
Ya, it's more fuel than you need, but it just returns to the tank so who cares.

People who drive in warmer climates will have higher tank vapor pressure, and most likely vent more gasoline to atmosphere. Returnless Fuel Systems reduce vapor loss...and keep tank's gasoline cooler.



Return-Type Fuel Systems
A return-type fuel system is one that is designed with a fuel pressure regulator that diverges the fuel pressure based on the power of vacuum suction from the engine?s intake system.

Returnless Fuel Systems
A returnless-type fuel system is one that is designed to use the powertrain control module (PCM) to regulate fuel delivery. A fuel pressure sensor mounted to the supply rail of the fuel injectors allows the powertrain control module to keep an eye on the fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure and flow starts to decrease as a result of increased engine speed or load, the powertrain control module will make up for the drop by increasing the injector duration and/or operating speed of the fuel pump.

https://www.autorepairindy.com/blog/difference-between-return-and-returnless-fuel-systems/
 
I don't know about that replacement, but the stock little pump I pulled out of my 960 that was totally dead from being completely physically worn out after 200k miles or so (over 300k km) does not have a separate return line from the main pump and instead has a very low pressure bypass at the pump end such that if they feed line to the main pump is full it simply pumps it through the bypass directly into the tank.

Having said that, I replaced it with a BMW 750i in-tank pump that does not have that bypass feature and is therefore in series with the main pump helping it out and this has worked flawlessly down to being able to over fill the tank above spec by several litres :-o

The Volvo two pump system is a work of genius really - the feed line to the main pump has a large vertical descent and large internal diameter - it's a surge tank built into your car from the factory. The in-tank pump's only job is to keep that feed line full so the main pump *never* sees air.

Given the return from the rail does not go to the inlet of the main pump and does go back to the tank the in-tank pump must be able to match the main pump for flow, but at basically zero pressure (except in my case). Because zero pressure it's very little to no heat as it's a very easy job :-)

But to answer the original question: on a stock B230F - no, zero point in any upgrade, just get a replacement unless you have big plans for the car that aren't so big as to warrant a totally different fuel system design.

My 2c at 1am after working on a rebadged and totally stripped Ford with a sweet T6 whiteblock in it all day :-D
 
To clarify, overfilling tank by several litres = it kept running smoothly and without any hiccups until SO empty that refilling required more than the car is supposed to hold :-D re reading my post afterward I realised that read weirdly and wasn't clear - sorry.
 
The Volvo two pump system is a work of genius really

SNAFU (Situation Normal, All Fuc.ed Up): 1975 240 CIS came with a single external pump, which in warmer climates, vapor lock would happen, so they had a recall to install a new fuel tank with an internal low pressure pump that feeds external pump.

When fuel is sent to engine compartment, it will heat up, and then return to fuel tank. 1975 240 CIS setup had a fuel filter on top end of firewall, so it was warmed up via engine heat. If fuel filter had been relocated to underneath vehicle, like in later vehicles, this might have resolved most all heat issue.

So, with time, there was two design changes...internal low pressure fuel pump in tank, and filter relocation.

Anyone know which year they relocated filter?
 
but that large ID hose to the main pump is no accident and is awesome :-D

Just a guess, larger ID allows any hot gasoline bubbles the chance to rise up vertically and be converted back to liquid. Function of in-tank pump was to compress gasoline for reducing gasoline bubbles. The boiling point increases with pressure
 
Maybe except that the fuel fed to the large ID hose is fresh fuel from the tank not hot fuel from the rail, so it's highly unlikely to be boiling or even remotely hot unless the tank is nearly dry at which point you've got bigger problems.

For the surge tank effect to work the in-tank pump must out-flow the under car pump - however because the factory in-tank pump operates at near zero pressure it's easily able to flow a lot of fuel relative to its size and do just that.

When my intank pump was dead the thing would run normally most of the time but when you got on it hard it would cut out, guessing maybe it was drawing air in under vacuum with the in-tank dead as a restriction rather than helper. But either way replacing the intank with a bigger badder high pressure one worked great :-)
 
Maybe except that the fuel fed to the large ID hose is fresh fuel from the tank not hot fuel from the rail, so

How hot does it get in Saudi Arabia?

Summers, from June to August, are hot, with daytime temperatures in the shade exceeding 100 ?F (38 ?C) in almost all of the country. Temperatures in the desert frequently rise as high as 130 ?F (55 ?C) in the summer.

Volvo Cars are sold there...


>in-tank pump....able to flow a lot of fuel

Reid Vapor Pressure for gasoline varies on what's blended, but gasoline is boiling at 100 ?F (38 ?C)


Well Yeah, with some in-tank pressure of 8 to 10 psi at 100 ?F (38 ?C), gasoline (liquid or vapor) will flow to a less pressure area.
 
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