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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

It's time to start the 16v swap!

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Still not sure I'm going to do a 16v AND T5 swap all at once...but the box is ready to go if I decide to pull all the triggers.

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...except I just realized that there was no input shaft seal in the Deeworks kit. Not sure why it isn't included...but I guess I've got to take it all apart again and get a seal, sigh. Kinda peeved about that...
 
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The engine/trans is half-way out. I had to stop due to my knees starting to complain (hooray for aging) but I'm off for the rest of the week and hope to have it out by sunday night. There are a few things I'm going to try to address, such as a constantly leaky PS pump/rack/etc setup, which bugs the F**K out of me...and apparently the cold-start delete plates on my webers are not sealing properly because there's fuel pooling underneath them, sigh. They're pretty thin so I might have to make some thicker ones and go to town with the silicone.

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Waiting for parts that were SUPPOSEDLY in stock, from a reputable vendor, sucks balls. If I wanted to sit on my hands and do nothing I can do that without spending $500 CAD.

For the boomers here, yes...I did call them...even though they have an ONLINE STORE. Waiting for updates is hell.
 
I absolutely hate setting up trigger wheels, ugh. Of course, because the KL Racing crank wheel has teeny teeth (60-2), the standard Ford VR sensor won't work due to the tip being too big. I'm currently using a Webcon sensor with a tip that matches the tooth size and it generates MASSIVE amounts of voltage at full song so the NoDizPro had a freakout at 3600 RPM and this happened...

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A nice giant explosive backfire split the stock NA muffler at every seam. I was free-revving the engine in the garage trying to sort out the miss/sync-loss and then all hell broke loose. My wife thought I destroyed the garage and came running out.

A 20k Ohmn shunt resistor fixed all problems, thankfully...except the peeled mufflernana. Luckily I have a turbo under-axle pipe and rear muffler ready to go, and all I have to do now is connect it to the resonator and I'm back on the road.
 
WHAT?

Lol.

They rang for a few min, but everything is good again. I've already gotten everything fixed up and it's good to go again :).

I have to say that I'm kinda digging the Ford T5 swap with the big damper, because it's quiet as quiet can be. 5th gear is a biiiiiiiiiiiiiiit long though (0.68) so I may need to get that changed out for something else. I lucked out with the driveshaft angle first try too, no noise or vibration with a single-piece 2.75" 47" long shaft.
 
Hooo boy.

The .72 OD with a 3.73 rear end is actually nice.

We finally have a reason to use the 0.68 OD here in Ontario.

They finally increased our speed limits on some roads to 110 kph (68 mph). Add in the "I am only going 20 over" factor and cruising at 130 kph with only ~ 2500 RPM on the clock is nice.

But I agree that jump from 4th to 5th with a 3.73 and 0.68 is a lot!
 
I seriously have to cruise in 4th if I'm at 80kph, because switching to 5th puts me near 1800 RPM! Possibly great for fuel economy...but trying to get a decent AFR out of a set of DCOEs that low in the RPM range under load is pretty tough, lol.

I did finally suck it up and order a set of DCOE 152G 5-holes though, which should help with the huge flat/lean spot during progression. Even though I've only driven it a little bit right now, it is hilarious to drive due to the intake noise. Not super fast, but very giggle-inducing :). The 45mm carbs should help a ton with driveability, although it's staying on 36mm chokes.
 
That engine setup looks great! Good to hear that the FAJS are working er for you.
Where did you get the setup from? (you mentioned it in the vid but I could hear it)

You could go spark only with microsquirt for the ignition, but that’s work.

You could also try the resistor trick if voltage spikes are the issue.
VRs are very sensitive to noise, and using proper shielded wire, that’s drained properly, is key.
 
I get all my Weber stuff from Carbparts.eu in the Czech Republic. They have amazing service and really stand by everything they sell. They even test the FAJS stuff before shipping it out to make sure it's all good. Not to mention they use DHL so it gets from there to my place in Canada in 2-3 days :). I am VERY impressed with the FAJS carbs and I can see why they're popular with the euro folks. They were ~$300 CAD cheaper than genuine Weber 152G 5-hole carbs (which seem to be backordered everywhere), so I am calling it a win.

Now...the ignition system. I went with an offering out of the UK from Motorsport-electronics called NoDizPro because I've seen a lot of good things from some UK youtubers I watch. Honestly, it is a great system...but it's VERY Ford focused (the Zetec/Duratec, etc). I can't use the standard Ford sensor with the internal Ford trigger wheel, which the system is built around and that's the problem. The KL Racing trigger wheel is a very small diameter and it's causing a LOT of problems. I had to add a 20k shunt resistor (it has a very small one installed, barely even a full K ohm) and it solved the 'exploding muffler' issue, but the setup just isn't optimal I guess. I have no idea if the KL Racing trigger wheel kit is vibrating or what, but you can feel when it loses sync (pop, sometimes BANG). I really prefer hall senders for lovely digital signal they put out but the NoDiz doesn't support hall :(. I have an MS2 here that I could try out, and re-purpose the Zetec plug and play loom I got with the NoDiz to work with the MS2...and I have a Cherry hall sender ready to go...but I really need a break, lol.

Also, and this is trivial, but I really don't like not having access to the TunerStudio trigger logging, lol. The NoDiz has zero logging capability and that's...irritating.
 
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Today is a great day.
The DIY shortened LH2.2 distributor works like a charm, the megasquirt is now controlling my ignition, and there are NO sync losses (all hail hall senders!). I went for a quick spin to start the tuning process and discovered that when it's not sync-lossing all over the place (it was waste spark, so two cyls would drop at once), the settings I chose to start with are GREAT! I've only made one BIG alteration to the carbs themselves and I'll relay that below. Here are the settings I'm using for now:

Mains: 145
Airs: 190 (IIRC)
Emulsion tube: F16 (we'll see how it goes, I have some F15s to try)
Pumps: 55
Pump spillback valve: 0
Idles: 55F8
Chokes: 36 (I MIGHT get some 38s, but I have lots of spares to just have machined out instead)
Acc pump spring: +250% stiffer than stock. This is the thing nobody ever changes and it made a fairly big difference to my car. Now when I move the throttle, the pump rod moves immediately instead of delaying due to the weak original spring. It makes the pump a bit more sensitive to throttle movements.

I have to say that the PZ cams are everything I've read them to be from old posts here. They're pretty punchy-ish, but they idle vaccum is TERRIBLE. On the MS I'm seeing maaaaaaaaaaaaybe 60kpa, at full operating temp, at 1000rpm idle. Not a big deal but I guess I'm going to need to add a TPS to improve the resolution of the ignition map.
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Thanks! :)

Y'know, I was thinking how much I love the simplicity of carbs...with a megasquirt controlling the ignition and datalogging every standalone sensor I can get. Sigh. The TPS and wideband are now wired in, and as soon as I can figure out the most convenient way to get a GM temp sensor into the coolant path, I'll log that too.

There's a big automotive flea market coming up from the 16th-19th, and it's about 4 hours away. I'm thinking of taking my car there as a shakedown cruise with the new engine/carbs. Seems ridiculous when you consider gas is $2.10/L...but (as the young people used to say) YOLO.
 
In Barrie?

Is there Volvo stuff there?

Sorta Barrie...

https://www.thebafm.com/

The Barrie Automotive Flea Market bought the old Bonfield drag strip and put it back into commission. Now it's "Bonfield Event Park" and they hold a twice-yearly automotive flea market there too. The first one is from June 16-19, and because it's at a drag strip and not a glorified outdoor concert area (like original Barrie has become), there's all sorts of shenanigans. The BAFM folks are pretty unhappy with the new direction of original their original location so they're slowly moving away from it. I was there last year and there was only TWO food vendors! Any food vendor now has to sell 'Burl's Creek Event Grounds' instant coffee instead of decent stuff, and a whole bunch of other stupid rules.

Last year there were no tents at all! It's all huge RVs and CAMPFIRES AREN'T ALLOWED. Like WTF!

As far as Volvo-specific stuff...probably not unless some dude has some scraps for sale. I go for the cool hot rod parts and consumables like zipties and butt connectors. Tools, brake cleaner, etc etc. Good prices on that stuff :). Not to mention it's only 4 hours from Ottawa instead of 6.
 
LH2.4 coolant sensor wired in, and GM IAT up next. I'll just throw it in a spot near the horns of the carbs for a general idea of what the engine bay temps are. At this rate, if I ever decide to go full EFI on this engine I'll only have to wire up the injectors, haha.
 
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