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Old 12-01-2020, 01:14 PM   #240
Outlaw Amazonian
R32RennSport's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Atascadero, CA

Originally Posted by 142 guy View Post
With the headlights on, check the voltage at the bulbs. The Amazon headlight wiring arrangement is marginal. Supplying the headlights through dedicated fuses and relays from the Battery + terminal or an add in distribution point can make a significant difference. Light output for an incandescent bulb is at least proportional to the square of the voltage (the lamp rerating document on Wikipedia indicates the exponent is more like 3.5). If your alternator is running 13.8 - 14 volts and you are only getting 12 volts at the light bulbs because of voltage drop through the wiring you are getting a minimum 30% reduction in illumination.

Which lenses did you purchase? Hella and Cibie make excellent 7" H4s with good patterns. The off brands - not so good; but, they look trick.
I'll take a reading at the bulbs the next time I'm in there to verify. I have the Hella H4 conversion units. I never realized that such a small drop in voltage decreased output so much. My mesh stone guards probably don't help my situation either.

At least the driving lights should be in good working order by the end of the week, if those don't blast the sun on the road I don't know what will

As you can see in the picture I've added a remote + battery lug near the fuse box (a BMW part) as well as a secondary accessory fuse box on the pedal box. Additional relays can be seen to the far right. I've done my best to not interrupt the factory wiring and keep everything as add-ons. I've also been conscious of keeping all the wiring to the driver side of the engine bay. Even the alternator harness is wrapped in high heat aero space wrap and remotely clamped along the coolant transfer tube under the intake manifolds.


1966 Outlaw Volvo Amazon, 2004 VW R32 Golf

Last edited by R32RennSport; 12-01-2020 at 01:22 PM..
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