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Help with a noise (video inside)

I

icdpride

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2014
Location
Denver Colorado
Can any one identify this horrible noise on a b230f + t you will hear a horrible screech then the engine will stop the oil is fine no metal in it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wKnfONd-gd4" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I realized I did not put enough details in this post, the details on the engine are it is a

-1986 block and crank with 13mm rods from a 1991
-1986 Na Pistons with new rings
-1986 Na Head with mild porting on the intake and exhaust
-Ipd turbo cam
-M46 Trans

What happen is it was running fine, well in desperate need of a tuning professional, but running. I did not know much about tuning when I started this project so the 1000cc injectors were dumping way too much fuel into the the engine and I forgot to change the oil after I moved the car to a new garage (it was towed). So once I started to try tuning it again it was making low oil pressure so I drained the oil and realized the fuel in oil issue so I pulled off the pan and checked the bearings and noticed so wear so I replaced them. Put it all back together and put new oil in and now this. I am thinking the crank is shot or something but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas before I pull the motor.
 
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I listened to the video but can't really tell what the noise is.

Check the harmonic balancer though. It likes to squeal / screech after it starts to separate.
 
Disconnect all the belts and try again.

The only thing other than balancer / belts (front of engine) that would make noise like that would be metal to metal - internally.
 
I think I tend to agree with the consensus for looking at the belt system.

It certainly doesn't sound belt slipping on pulley related but say if... your PS pump is eating itself, it can make that noise and with enough drag on the system can actually stop the motor.

The things that come to mind would be...
1. Alternator related.
2. Timing belt tensioner.
3. Harmonic balancer.
4. Crank pulley slipping or breaking.

Making a noise like that WITHIN the motor is certainly possible, but it also isn't the first place I'd look... especially if things are running smoothly as they sound.
 
Did you take the cover off the auxiliary shaft? If you did and put it back with rtv instead of a gasket the cover is probably rubbing on the thrust bearing surface. Mine wouldn't even turn over when I did this. It needs the gasket for a spacer.
 
VB242 said:
Did you take the cover off the auxiliary shaft? If you did and put it back with rtv instead of a gasket the cover is probably rubbing on the thrust bearing surface. Mine wouldn't even turn over when I did this. It needs the gasket for a spacer.
Click to expand...

Never took out the aux shaft honestly
 
icdpride said:
That is what I am thinking I am thinking internal, Any idea if it is top or bottom end?
Click to expand...

*If* it is internal, then a full rebuild would be advised.

Or, toss in a long block from a donor car.

And, I see where you say that you changed crank bearings... Did you plastigauge? Engine in or out of car?

edit:// I still think you need to rule out 'front' engine noise.
 
swedefiend said:
*If* it is internal, then a full rebuild would be advised.

Or, toss in a long block from a donor car.

And, I see where you say that you changed crank bearings... Did you plastigauge? Engine in or out of car?

edit:// I still think you need to rule out 'front' engine noise.
Click to expand...


I didn't do the crank bearings on the rod bearings.

I first replaced the ring and rod bearings with it outside the car, then after the oil issue I dropped the subframe and replaced and of the rod bearings that had any hot spots or wear. So both

Yeah I will do that when I get home. I will remove the belts to have no tension or load on the main pulley, I will check the Timing belt tensioner. But then thats really it right?
 
Yeah, but remove the belts so that the only thing turning is the engine internals.

That will rule out your p/s pump, alternator and water pump.

You can get a paint marker from Wally world (in the crafts section) and use that to mark your balancer. Paint a stripe from the inner piece across the rubber damper and on to the outer part.

This mark should not separate. See this link for clarification.
 
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If you do the short block, I highly recommend getting a magnetic drain plug and swapping oil / filter like 100 miles or less after you swap blocks.

There's likely metal shavings everywhere if that was the crank seizing up in it's journals.

Something to consider. Cheap insurance, IMHO to do oil and filter early in order to help save cam / turbo.
 
swedefiend said:
If you do the short block, I highly recommend getting a magnetic drain plug and swapping oil / filter like 100 miles or less after you swap blocks.

There's likely metal shavings everywhere if that was the crank seizing up in it's journals.

Something to consider. Cheap insurance, IMHO to do oil and filter early in order to help save cam / turbo.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's the plan I will probably buy a used block and crank and just rebuild it and change the oil out a lot. Or just sell all the Volvo stuff and gm swap it, if I could find a cheap manual trans that would fit a 5.3 or 5.7 lol
 
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