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b230R build

Sorry I wasnt talking to you but since you butted in I wasn't referring to a 230f or 230FT rods and if thats the case the rods can def handle 300 hp so again this only strengthens the argument that starting with h-beam doesn't really make that much sense since a lighter piston actually take stress of a rod that can already handle 300 hp.... I still stand by the argument that the preparatory machining to make sure everything is straight and true is most important for reliability and durability in a rebuild rebuild not what pistons he uses or his tune.

Regards
Hubert
You weren't talking to anybody as a forum is exactly that...a forum. Further, the title of the thread clearly states "B230R," no? Additionally, the m-rods from a 21/23 motor are, in reality, stronger than b230 rods...but at the cost of being extremely heavy. Just based on prior experience and the experience of others, a stock bottom end can tickle the 380-400whp without issue, but it is living on borrowed time at that point.
 
ah ok, I'm tracking now. I thought you were talking about a full cnc workup (outside of the scope of 300hp), I was about to ask where you got that done inexpensively. yeah agreed, basic bowl and seat work is fairly straight forward for machines like that.

Linuxman51,
Thank you for understanding what Im trying to say and not posting things just for the sake of arguing when half the time were basically saying the same thing. Sometime I don't get the point of dwelling on things everyone has settled. We know either rod style can handle 300 hp. For the most part the conversations were cool but certain people truly pine for real confrontations. U know my saying..... a waste of time....

I hope my friend from Germany considers all that been posted by everyone here and makes the right decision for him. Ultimately its his build so I don't need to control it. I stand by everything I posted here the first go round so there no need for me to waste any more bandwidth re posting at this point what would amount to spam. I truly enjoyed the discussion and have read your assessment about volvo internals long ago and I agree with what I saw posted. My experience with very accomplished engine builders and our discussions about the redblocks internals we saw with our eyes are in concurrence. It differs quite a bit from some of the other members post. What my machinist , Clay Ewing machine and dyno in Rockinham NC has done is posted here. Ill leave it at that.


Happy Tuning
Hubert
 
:rockon:

sufficient info has been provided, look forward to seeing how the OP solves this problem.
 
because its my daily driver it seems that cast piston are the better option. I will stay with the head i have and will make a dyno run when i put it in the car. my boss said that when it makes more the 300hp he will pay the dyno cost and i will have a race against his 600hp Diesel Touareg.
 
because its my daily driver it seems that cast piston are the better option. I will stay with the head i have and will make a dyno run when i put it in the car. my boss said that when it makes more the 300hp he will pay the dyno cost and i will have a race against his 600hp Diesel Touareg.

Id watch out. This doesn't sound like a fair race to me. Why would you want to race a daily driver and tear it up fooling with vw's with twice the power. That thing is also all wheel drive. I ran up on a built Audi Airbus once with the t6 and it wasnt pretty especially through the curves. It would have been better to have the T6 powering a AWD platform. The Airbus belonged to Tioga the owner of automotive specialist in Chapel Hill NC. It truly carved the road up and pulls very hard. Id be careful with a Toureg esp if it's a v10. I think the torque and traction at launch will be hard to overcome but thats just my opinion.

Regards
Hubert
 
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he wants to see how good my volvo keeps up with the touareg and honestly i think i could have a chance, he has alot of extra weight in it probably weighs around 2.5-2.6 Tons so i have better power to weight.
and they had to limit the torque it makes because of the trans and stuff
and mine is at 1.2 tons ac delete, removed insulation no carpet, radio delete, also could easily remove the rear seats. im going to buy the acm.se Carbon fibre fender, hood, and trunk
i could make a twin turbo 19t because they didnt specify the amount of turbos i installed so
 
A daily driver with no AC doesn't sound like fun in NC . Were hanging around at 35 degrees Celsius. I don't think you will gain traction off the line because youre lighter or have a better hp to weight ratio. What about torque? that matters.....Its what truly turns things. The vw probably has anti slip as well. He can really apply his power to the ground much more efficiently and in my opinion that makes a huge difference. I guess we will find out soon enuf if the lighter car at half the hp and grip will win. Sounds like you intend to push a daily driver pretty hard actually. Hope it works out.


Regards
Hubert
 
the engine was hurt because the cam plug blew out and because of that i ran the car with .5 liter oil for 40-45km. i think the rods were bent already because a year ago the boost solenoid didnt work. the boost was around 28 psi with stock lh2.2 sounded like firecrackers. it never ran right after that and huge pressure in the crankcase

Fuel pump is rated for 550 hp
injectors a flow tested and flow 550cc
AFR stayed at 12-11.5 during boost

tryckvakt.jpg


Greetings to Germany from the USA. One simple antiquated piece prevents this. A pressure guard switch that cuts the fuel. Old as it may be it works. +1 for old school as it is a suggested jy pull in the old school steps to 300 hundred ponies. What failsafe do you have in place now to prevent this in the future. Im still surprised with a 1500 haltech and I beams you want cast pistons. It certainly seems like youll be pushing the daily driver playing with vw's. Seems like they'd be the last piece in a small lottery round up​


Regards
Hubert
 
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the engine was hurt because the cam plug blew out and because of that i ran the car with .5 liter oil for 40-45km. i think the rods were bent already because a year ago the boost solenoid didnt work. the boost was around 28 psi with stock lh2.2 sounded like firecrackers. it never ran right after that and huge pressure in the crankcase

Fuel pump is rated for 550 hp
injectors a flow tested and flow 550cc
AFR stayed at 12-11.5 during boost

A $30 cam plug retainer is a wise investment. You could've won that race
 

tryckvakt.jpg


One simple antiquated piece prevents this. A pressure guard switch that cuts the fuel. Old as it may be it works. +1 for old school as it is a suggested jy pull in the old school steps to 300 hundred ponies. What failsafe do you have in place now to prevent this in the future.​


Regards
Hubert

Why exactly would you want a mechanical device to artificially cut the fuel at 28psi ? Are you trying to melt a piston? If he's running 11.5-12 at full boost his fuel isn't the problem.


he could use that pressure switch as part of his boost control system to pull the plug but yanking the fuel out of the engine will kill it for sure.


Most likely the timing with lh2.2 was a bit too hot and the detonation is what caused the ensuant rod bending and freeze plug blowing... Nothing about 28psi that's going to blow a motor except that the tuning is off... gotta go that high in the first place to get these piles out of their own way.

If he goes haltech he can set his own timing and keep the thing from blowing away boundary layers.​
 
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Since that Cam plug incident i bought a retainer.
I also have a Electric boost controller that i can adjust boost upto 2bar. it also has a adjustable overboost limit if it goes above it, it fully opens the wastegate.
 
Really wrong but no time as you simply come in to argue first thing in the morning. Its a pressure guard thats its purpose. A solenoid is an electro mechanical device so you make no sense with your rants. If you turn the key off does the fuel pump still deliver fuel....? that surely melts his pistons for sure..... I wont argue with atlanta because certainly his engine still runs with zero fuel. My post has nothing to do with how you are controlling boost only what is the failsafe. The controller doesn't matter if a line pop off or the SOLENOID falis. The post really make little sense as you'd set the guard well below 28 psi. This makes some form of protection for people that do not have aftermarket ECU. A pressure guard and a pressure switch are pretty much the same thing.

Input: Air pressure
Output: Electric signal (ohm)
Function: Cuts the fuel pump if the boost pressure rises over a specific level


Thanks
Marcus
 
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Really wrong but no time as you simply come in to argue. Its a pressure guard thats its purpose. A solenoid is an electro mechanical device so you make no sense with your rants. If you turn the key off does the fuel pump still deliver fuel....that surely melts his pistons for sure..... I wont argue with atlanta.


Thanks
Marcus

Not exactly... killing the key also kills the spark which is what you need if you're trying to kill the motor from over revving... Spark cut rev limiting is used aside from fuel only cut to preserve the piston.

Yank the fuel only and you'll have a pile of aluminum inside the block.

his boost problem isn't what's killing his motor...
 
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the engine was hurt because the cam plug blew out and because of that i ran the car with .5 liter oil for 40-45km. i think the rods were bent already because a year ago the boost solenoid didn't work. the boost was around 28 psi with stock lh2.2 sounded like firecrackers. it never ran right after that and huge pressure in the crankcase

Fuel pump is rated for 550 hp
injectors a flow tested and flow 550cc
AFR stayed at 12-11.5 during boost

:wtf:

How if a user never reaches 28 psi with it and its used quite successfully already? wat killed it at 28 psi sounding like firecrackers?
 
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:wtf:

How if a user never reaches 28 psi with it and its used quite successfully already? wat killed it at 28 psi sounding like firecrackers?

I know those words but arranged together that particular fashion they have no meaning to me.


His boost control issues isn?t what killed his motor. He could have boost problems because he doesn?t have enough wastegate flow, the wastegate port is too small in the turbine housing, etc.

Yanking all the fuel out of a motor that is likely detonating from too much timing is not going to solve his problem.
 
The thing is that i got out of a corner and gave it gas i lost control because of the boost spike and hit a pole, that shut off the engine. buying a new solenoid solved this issue and never had issues since
also when i bought the car in 2019 we compression tested it had 11.5 bar on 1-3 cylinders and 11 on the 4th and after that boost spike it had alot of crankcase pressure and i tested again it had 10.5-11 Bar on 1-3 and around 8.5 bar on the 4th

also had to dyno the car twice and that made it run alot worse on the first run it was at 170hp at 0.5 bar the second run was at 148 at 0.5
 
I know those words but arranged together that particular fashion they have no meaning to me.


His boost control issues isn’t what killed his motor. He could have boost problems because he doesn’t have enough wastegate flow, the wastegate port is too small in the turbine housing, etc.

Yanking all the fuel out of a motor that is likely detonating from too much timing is not going to solve his problem.

They're his word which made sense to me and I think he'd be good to shut it down well before 28 psi But id also like to see forged pistons on what he has so Im a jerk like that.

The thing is that i got out of a corner and gave it gas i lost control because of the boost spike and hit a pole, that shut off the engine. buying a new solenoid solved this issue and never had issues since
also when i bought the car in 2019 we compression tested it had 11.5 bar on 1-3 cylinders and 11 on the 4th and after that boost spike it had alot of crankcase pressure and i tested again it had 10.5-11 Bar on 1-3 and around 8.5 bar on the 4th

also had to dyno the car twice and that made it run alot worse on the first run it was at 170hp at 0.5 bar the second run was at 148 at 0.5

So you solved the issue of the bad solenoid but not what happens if it failed or over boost occurred again. Try to Implement some type of fail safe in this build.

Regards
Hubert
 
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There were L and R block castings, the differences seem to be apocryphal and undocumented; but, there are claims of stronger crank journals and thicker wall casting on the R blocks.

Also piston oil squirters, some blocks have the bosses for them and just need to be drill and tapped for a jet. Sprays oil at the bottom of the piston to help keep it cool
 
Also piston oil squirters, some blocks have the bosses for them and just need to be drill and tapped for a jet. Sprays oil at the bottom of the piston to help keep it cool

all blocks produced '93+ had piston squirters, it's not specific to L or R castings.
 
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