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[940] 16v swap, no start

Xeroni

MPG?
Joined
Jul 18, 2009
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
I hope I'm doing something dumb. It cranks over fine but sputters and pops out the intake, leading me to think fuel or spark timing.

The basics:
94 940 b230f block
16v head with ford springs and stock valves
yoshifab timing belt kit
stock 16v intake and exhaust manifolds
stock 8v n/a injectors, computers, dizzy
new plugs/wires

Head swap went over fine, had some trouble lining up the exhaust cam but I got it after holding it slightly advanced to line up the mark on the head. I marked the crank gear and washers just to be sure it was at tdc. Doubled checked with a extension in the #1 hole and all the timing marks line up. Took the cap off and the rotor looks to be pointed in the direction of the #1 plug wire. Almost sounds like it has low compression as its turning over compared to the 8v but everything points to being lined up, don't know if the hydraulic lifters not being pumped up would have anything to do with that.

Ideas or comments would be appreciated.
 
Check valve clearance.
Verify cam timing. Measure cam events with a degree wheel to know it is right.
Verify ignition timing.
Basics first!
 
This isn't performance.

Check compression. Check spark. Check fuel injector pulse. 16v DOES have issues pumping up the lifters. You could to pull the belt and spin the aux gear with a power tool and build that oil pressure up.

I have a no-start thread linked in my sig.
 
as a double check, you should be able to count 16 t-belt teeth between the timing marks on the cam pulleys (including the teeth at the timing marks).

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also might want to consider getting B234 LH / EZK computers and injectors in the long run, but IMO it should at least start with the 8v components.
 
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I've heard that the cam timing doesn't line up with the 850 cam belt as it's more teeth and longer then the stock volvo redblock 16v 146 tooth belt and you need adjustable cam gears to get it right..
 
If you are using the head mount dizzy double check lead positions. Should be straight forward but I've been caught twice on mine - something in the manual I have doesn't work for me.
 
Thanks for the help guys. Turns out the rotor was actually pointing to the last wire on the cap, which is number two. Looks like the 16v dizzy is rotated differently than the 8v. I turned it about 90* to the left and it started right up.

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Now I have to take the top part of the head off because it's leaking between the halves...
Also the collector has a leak.
 

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Now I have to take the top part of the head off because it's leaking between the halves...
Also the collector has a leak.

It's pink stuff time!!! Maybe you already know how to do this but get yourself a tube of Loctite 518 and a little foam paint roller. to apply it on the upper half. A good cleanup of the upper and lower halves. Don't use power tools! Acetone, a razor blade and a light use of a scotchbrite pad will do the job. Replace the 4 big O rings for the spark plug holes.
 
So your using a 8v head distributor was your problem? Yeah the 16v heads have a different distributor looks just like the 8v but mounts different degrees I guess like you say about 90 degrees different.

Just like the 8v head distributor it only goes in one way and hard to be off a whole bunch unless your using the wrong one like you are. Easy to buy correct one on ebay if you get one from penta 171 motor course they want money for em. I got a bunch of 16v head distributors of course from all the 16v heads I've picked from the junkyards and boat motors.
 
Yeah, I used the cheap substitute that ipd sells and didn't clean it all that well. Got some loctite 518 coming and going to do it right this time. Also have a carDONE 16v dizzy coming, was only 90 bucks. Hope it actually works, I haven't had the best of luck with them.
 
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