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16v 945, trying and failing to keep it cheap

haha you're failing already with that cheap keeping thing :)
I failed at it when the timing belt failed lol
Rust is the devil and the end of many a good car! :-(

We're lucky in California that we hardly see rust. We still have 70s Japanese cars still around thanks to it.

I got the old 16v exhaust I had made welded back onto the car today, 3in straight piped to the rear. I might add a muffler in because it's really loud.
That was also the first test drive of the car and I noticed a few things. I didn't make any boost at all and the thermostat gasket was leaking ( I did reuse the old one). The latter is an easy fix but the first took me a while.
I thought the wastegate arm might have been backwards, then I checked the vacuum lines. Then I finally looked at the hot side piping and found this:

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Opps.

Hooked that back up with a right sized OE Volvo clamp and it was boosting. I still need to do some changing to the fuel map but once in boost it held around 11.5-12 afr until I popped off a cold side pipe at 20 psi. I might need to run a bead around my hard pipes to stop that.
 
Today I:

Replaced the leaky thermostat gasket, ew

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Put a "race muffler" from Amazon on it to hopefully quiet it down a bit. For whatever reason it has one 3in ID and one 3in OD. Luckily I had a 3in ID to ID adapter laying around to weld on to it.

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Then I drove it around some more, the brakes are no where near adequate for how fast this car can accelerate. They've never felt great so I'll probably go through and refresh it all up and put some new DOT4 fluid in it soon.
 
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Replaced the junkyard cap and rotor with new ones. Helped my ignition breakup over 15 psi a little but it's still there. I have a summit racing ignition box and coil on the way, we'll see if that helps.

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Still waiting for the local e85 pump to open up so I can stop driving an hour out to the nearest one. The OD button on the shifter rarely works so I'll need to see it I can remove it and deoxit. Being stuck in 4th+lockup sucks for spooling and 2nd is too much acceleration lol.

Also I seem to have lost idling vacuum, before it would idle at 19 inHG and now it's at 15/16. In drive it's even worse. Haven't been able to find any boost leaks but I'll need to make/borrow a leak tester to see.
 
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Chasing exhaust leaks.

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New j pipe to manifold gasket

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Fancy copper manifold gasket

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Replaced some cracked belts

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and finally a new fuel filter

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Sounds like I got most of the leaks but I still hear a little leak as the boost builds up.
 
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Solved my fuel issues by putting a DW200 in the tank. Ran a power wire from the battery to a relay triggered by the factory intank wiring. Replaced all the factory rubber lines up to the filter with high pressure fuel injection hose and removed the main pump by putting a M14 banjo to barb fitting on the filter input. Plenty of fuel now. Now I need to install the wasted spark board to stop the spark blowout.
 
Looks great! I always felt the 740/940 fuel sending unit was of especially evil design.

Love the j-pipe. Yours is braced much better than mine was.
 
Not commenting much, but following closely. Looks good so far. I also hate that sending unit.
 
Looks great! I always felt the 740/940 fuel sending unit was of especially evil design.

Love the j-pipe. Yours is braced much better than mine was.

Not commenting much, but following closely. Looks good so far. I also hate that sending unit.

Removing the sending unit was the worst part. 30 minutes of rotating and cursing a mm at a time. Installing it was as much as a pain.

With the J pipe I would have totally gone with a 90+ but the head width plus adapter would have pushed the turbo into the strut tower. I'll probably end up taking it off and fully welding it to the manifold since I can't stop it from having a tiny annoying leak.
 
I think I ended up adding more metal to the lower flange via welding and grinding it smooth again, but i definitely used two gaskets between the manifold and jpipe.
 
With soldering help from a friend I got the wasted spark board installed.

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Using a 960 ignition module ($30 from Rock Auto) and a 95 Kia Sportage 2.0 SOHC coil pack ($5.43 from RA). The Kia happens to have the same coil pack as the Bosch one that is recommended but at a steeeep discount. Right now the coil is zipped tied where the stock one is but I need to make a bracket to hold it permanently.
 
a 95 Kia Sportage 2.0 SOHC coil pack ($5.43 from RA). The Kia happens to have the same coil pack as the Bosch one that is recommended but at a steeeep discount.

wow! what a find. I think I paid $65 for mine a year or two ago. Do you have it physically already? Could you measure the primary and secondary DC resistance? I'd like to compare with my OE bosch one.:cool:
 
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