240 Cranks but doesn't start

Recently, I changed my camshaft in my 1985 volvo 244 (b230f) to an A cam. After reinstalling everything, I go to start my motor. And for some reason, it sounds like there is no compression. I think this may be timing, or my intermediate shaft isn't lined up. The motor spins over, but it doesn't even sound like it's trying to run, like there is no resistance. If it is this, is there any way to time the intermediate shaft without taking off the lower timing cover? Any ratio between the crank pully and shaft gear I can use to figure out how to time it? Any help is appreciated!

did you check valve lash, it could explain the no compression.

Belt broke or slipped. Recently happen to me. Remove timing belt cover to see what condition the belt is in.

Bloody244 said:

did you check valve lash, it could explain the no compression.

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It has the proper lash and compression, I checked that. Do you know what position the distributor rotor should be in when it?s lined up with the hash mark on the timing cover?

Fauxpas said:

. If it is this, is there any way to time the intermediate shaft without taking off the lower timing cover? Any ratio between the crank pully and shaft gear I can use to figure out how to time it? Any help is appreciated!

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- The Aux shaft turns at the same speed as the cam shaft because it drives the distributor.
- You can check the position of the Aux shaft when you take the distributor cap off (just leave the wires on.)
It the crank is at TDC and the inlet + outlet cam lobes of cil1 point UP on the camshaft then the rotor in the dizzy should point towards the wire connected to cil1.
- it at that point the engine still doesn't want to start and if it sounds like there is no compression then you need to check and adjust valve clearences.

Janspeed said:

- The Aux shaft turns at the same speed as the cam shaft because it drives the distributor.
- You can check the position of the Aux shaft when you take the distributor cap off (just leave the wires on.)
It the crank is at TDC and the inlet + outlet cam lobes of cil1 point UP on the camshaft then the rotor in the dizzy should point towards the wire connected to cil1.
- it at that point the engine still doesn't want to start and if it sounds like there is no compression then you need to check and adjust valve clearences.

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Alright, trying that out now

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/images/TimingMarks.jpg


There is a mark on the distributor that will line up with the rotor.

If you're not making compression the problem isn't the distributor timing, it's the cam timing. Double check the timing marks and verify that the cam gear dowel pin didn't shear.