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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

I really just don't love the sound of blow off valves vented to atmosphere. But if I plumbed it back into the air box it would probably echo around in there and sound pretty wild anyway. I've heard the Tial one is pretty quiet as far as those things go?

I actually never thought to run the Forge to atmosphere. I like that, because then I could run a 1" hose under the car to muffle it a bit.
 
It gives you options. I put a 1” K&N filter on one to muffle it a bit.
Do the Tial BOVs fully seal under vacuum? I know some of the Japanese ones are cracked open at idle for some reason.
 
Under vacuum the Forge might open a bit and cause an unmetered air leak. I would use a dual port unit if I was going that route.

If you want a cheap option for a blowoff valve, I have an older unused dual port Apexi I would sell very cheap. It has an adjustable outlet to make it louder or quieter, but I think that means it will be a bit loud no matter what. It's also a good bit larger that a Forge.
 
Under vacuum the Forge might open a bit and cause an unmetered air leak. I would use a dual port unit if I was going that route.

I haven't experienced a Forge or O32 Recirc valve leak under vacuum. If you wanted to, you could easily shim the spring a bit (or stretch it). It's easy enough to check with a hand vacuum pump...
 
Under vacuum the Forge might open a bit and cause an unmetered air leak. I would use a dual port unit if I was going that route.

If you want a cheap option for a blowoff valve, I have an older unused dual port Apexi I would sell very cheap. It has an adjustable outlet to make it louder or quieter, but I think that means it will be a bit loud no matter what. It's also a good bit larger that a Forge.

If I am using an ECU running MAP, with no MAF, is the air leak even an issue?

I think I'll try to save some money for once in my life and just use the Forge that I have. Thanks for the offer on the Apexi though.
 
It gives you options. I put a 1? K&N filter on one to muffle it a bit.
Do the Tial BOVs fully seal under vacuum? I know some of the Japanese ones are cracked open at idle for some reason.

That's what I have done with mine. It's silent. Running it backwards makes it sound like an SSQV, which is fun.
 
I spent a lot of time thinking about how deal with boost control to my dual wastegates, and I think I got it. Obviously silicone or rubber hose isn't going to hold up on the rear wastegate, so I daisy chained them together with stainless hardline. Then I can just run the boost controller to the front one, which is out of the danger zone.

So I ordered m10 banjo to 4an adapters, then planned on using 4an to 1/4" tube adapters. All that stuff took up way too much room, so I did this:

IMeopGNl.jpg


I drilled out the 4an banjo fittings to 1/4", so I could slip the stainless tube straight into the banjo. I connected the tops and bottoms of the wastegates, so I can just plumb the top and bottom of the front one to my boost controller (probably a 3-port solenoid controlled by whatever ECU I choose). Pretty pleased with how this came out.

fkCHKPal.jpg


za0nxs1l.jpg


Now I need to figure out how to attach the tube to the banjos. My first thought was to TIG them, which I think would work. Just might be pretty fussy with such a small diameter tube. I'm currently thinking about silver brazing them. Any thoughts on which method would hold up to the heat and vibes?
 
Looking sharp! I would probably just get a two or three tacks on each fitting in situ, then weld them up. Just start off low, like 20 amps, and work your way around. .045 or even thinner diameter filler is the trick for small parts like that.
 
Looking sharp! I would probably just get a two or three tacks on each fitting in situ, then weld them up. Just start off low, like 20 amps, and work your way around. .045 or even thinner diameter filler is the trick for small parts like that.

That?s encouraging. I have some .045 so I?ll see how it goes.
 
if those are m10 to-3 or -4 banjos, then tube nuts shouldn't take up any more space than what already has been...

Oh I didn?t read your post carefully. If I had a flare tool that could do stainless, maybe that would have been the move. And if I got a decent tool, I?d still have to bend new lines because the banjos are too close to the body of the wastegate. But I have a welder, so I?ll just use that.
 
Oh I didn?t read your post carefully. If I had a flare tool that could do stainless, maybe that would have been the move. And if I got a decent tool, I?d still have to bend new lines because the banjos are too close to the body of the wastegate. But I have a welder, so I?ll just use that.

whelp, if you have any plans to redo brake lines or do hardline fuel lines...the mastercool flare tool is boss and does stainless like butter.
 
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