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Old 01-18-2021, 08:58 AM   #1126
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Stupid question: what is wrong with cutting a hole on the front of the right wheel well, making a duct from back of headlights to this hole, and then putting the oil cooler in between? I ASSume that is where the battery goes but I have no idea of how much vertical space is above the battery.
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Old 01-18-2021, 12:33 PM   #1127
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Stupid question: what is wrong with cutting a hole on the front of the right wheel well, making a duct from back of headlights to this hole, and then putting the oil cooler in between? I ASSume that is where the battery goes but I have no idea of how much vertical space is above the battery.
This is likely where the battery and/or catch can will go. It could work for a cooler and associated ducting, but it would mean cutting a pretty big hole in the fender, which I'd rather not do.
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Old 01-18-2021, 02:12 PM   #1128
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It's surprising how tall that inner fender well gets how fast. My battery ended in the trunk because the volume for the battery ended up getting filled with brake booster, radiator catch can, and intercooler piping.

I know you don't want to block off the radiator more but what about blocking off just on one side? My oil cooler lives on one side of the grill.
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Old 01-18-2021, 04:15 PM   #1129
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It's surprising how tall that inner fender well gets how fast. My battery ended in the trunk because the volume for the battery ended up getting filled with brake booster, radiator catch can, and intercooler piping.

I know you don't want to block off the radiator more but what about blocking off just on one side? My oil cooler lives on one side of the grill.
Yeah, that's how my oil cooler was positioned for the 8 valve and I always felt like it impacted overall engine cooling. I never had any conclusive results to prove that, though. But the car ran hot, and I can't fit a bigger radiator, so I want to avoid stacking up heat exchangers.

To be honest, this whole project is about to be put on hold for a bit while we prepare to sell our house and move north. Maybe by being forced not to just try things, I'll gain some clarity on how to actually do them.

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Old 01-18-2021, 07:45 PM   #1130
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Yeah, that's how my oil cooler was positioned for the 8 valve and I always felt like it impacted overall engine cooling. I never had any conclusive results to prove that, though. But the car ran hot, and I can't fit a bigger radiator, so I want to avoid stacking up heat exchangers.
Mine is just about to get onto the road. It went around the block successfully last weekend and it's ready to go further afield. I'll keep you looped into my cooling adventures.

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To be honest, this whole project is about to be put on hold for a bit while we prepare to sell our house and move north. Maybe by being forced not to just try things, I'll gain some clarity on how to actually do them.

The number of times I'd go out at the garage, stare at the engine bay for a while, maybe walk around it, and then go back into the house to wrench on bicycles or do anything else...
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Old 01-18-2021, 11:15 PM   #1131
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stacking the exchangers isn't an issue as long as stuff is ducted and sealed up good, but therein lies the challenge. great project and good luck with selling the house!
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Old 01-18-2021, 11:29 PM   #1132
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Mine is just about to get onto the road. It went around the block successfully last weekend and it's ready to go further afield. I'll keep you looped into my cooling adventures.

The number of times I'd go out at the garage, stare at the engine bay for a while, maybe walk around it, and then go back into the house to wrench on bicycles or do anything else...
If/when my car ever runs, I'll be living in Corvallis, Oregon. I've been known to do some pretty dumb drives, and Seattle doesn't seem that far. Maybe we can meet up and compare notes.
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Old 01-18-2021, 11:31 PM   #1133
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stacking the exchangers isn't an issue as long as stuff is ducted and sealed up good, but therein lies the challenge. great project and good luck with selling the house!
Yeah, it's going to be tough to seal things on this car, but I plan to try. That, and I really want to figure out some kind of belly pan to keep the air moving under the car and behind the radiator. And thanks!
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Old 06-09-2021, 05:21 PM   #1134
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Man, it's been a wild year so far. We finally have all our stuff (and my Volvo) moved into the new house in Corvallis, Oregon. There's still a lot to be done before I can start working on the car again, but at least it's in a garage and I can start thinking about it again. I actually came here to check on where I left off - that's how far from my mind it's been. Once I get the garage cleared out, I can start on building some benches and getting my shop set up dialed back in. My old space in CA was VERY small, but I had it pretty well set up for my entry-level fabrication stuff. Hoping this slightly larger space allows for some tools I couldn't fit before.



In a tangentially related update, I kind of impulsively bought another car. I've wanted one since high school and although the turbos have become unattainable for me, I found a cheap NA 944 that needs a little work. The idea was to find a car that I could drive for fun since my Volvo hasn't run for years and likely will take another year. This 944 is more of a project than I wanted, but it's a running, driving example with decent paint for a good price and I just had to. Part of my hopes the timing belt lets go before I can get to it, so I can contemplate a vr6 swap...



ANYWAY, my update is that the Volvo is in another state, and in another month or so, I should be able to keep chipping away at it. Can't wait!
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Old 06-09-2021, 06:01 PM   #1135
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congrats on the move! I've always loved your 142 so I'm glad to hear it will be back under the knife soon.
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Old 06-09-2021, 11:00 PM   #1136
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Follow-up question: Anyone know how much travel the hydraulic 740 slave cylinder has in normal operation? Since I won't be able to drop my trans any time soon, measuring slave cylinder travel is the only test I'll be able to do to see if everything is sized correctly.
Going back to this, I used the factory 122 master (.75Ē bore) and a 740 slave. It would over-extend the slave to the point that the seal would come out of the bore and puke all the fluid out and then Kyleís dad has to flat tow your broken car back to his house in the middle of the night in the scariest hillbilly part of the state. I guess that issue is easy enough to remedy with a pedal stop though.
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Old 06-09-2021, 11:09 PM   #1137
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Going back to this, I used the factory 122 master (.75Ē bore) and a 740 slave. It would over-extend the slave to the point that the seal would come out of the bore and puke all the fluid out and then Kyleís dad has to flat tow your broken car back to his house in the middle of the night in the scariest hillbilly part of the state. I guess that issue is easy enough to remedy with a pedal stop though.
Well, hopefully that's good for me, since I have a 5/8 master. As long as the stroke is the same as the 122 one you used, I'll probably be ok?
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Old 06-09-2021, 11:25 PM   #1138
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Well, hopefully that's good for me, since I have a 5/8 master. As long as the stroke is the same as the 122 one you used, I'll probably be ok?
Iím guessing the bore size/fluid volume affects slave travel more than the stroke of the master? I think all of the different bore sizes within one manufacturer have the same stroke but obviously will move different amounts of fluid at different pressures. My plan was to just limit the pedal travel with a big bolt or something. Iím getting ready to put Tilton pedals in mine and I went with a .70 bore master in anticipation of buying a Yoshifab clutch for a basic flat flywheel.
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Old 06-10-2021, 12:10 AM   #1139
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Iím guessing the bore size/fluid volume affects slave travel more than the stroke of the master? I think all of the different bore sizes within one manufacturer have the same stroke but obviously will move different amounts of fluid at different pressures. My plan was to just limit the pedal travel with a big bolt or something. Iím getting ready to put Tilton pedals in mine and I went with a .70 bore master in anticipation of buying a Yoshifab clutch for a basic flat flywheel.
I don't know. There's math that could be done here, but I'm certainly not about to do that right now.

Which Tilton pedals are you going with? In the process of cobbling my pedals together, I started to think a bolt-on solution would be nice.
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Old 06-10-2021, 08:01 AM   #1140
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I don't know. There's math that could be done here, but I'm certainly not about to do that right now.

Which Tilton pedals are you going with? In the process of cobbling my pedals together, I started to think a bolt-on solution would be nice.
Iím using the 600 series hanging pedals and mounting them to a frame like Kyle did in his wagon. Itís more work than I cared to do but I was never going to be able to get a booster or even just a dual-circuit master to fit in the engine bay so my brakes just werenít going to work properly.
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Old 06-10-2021, 12:01 PM   #1141
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Congrats on the move - that looks like a great garage to get set up in. I'm still working on the layout in mine after almost 10 years...

Sweet 944 also, that must be a rare color, no? What about a 1.8T VW swap? I've seen a few and the end products look like a lot of fun.
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Old 06-10-2021, 12:09 PM   #1142
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Gave up on SAABs and settled for a Porsche smh
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Old 06-10-2021, 12:37 PM   #1143
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Sweet 944 also, that must be a rare color, no? What about a 1.8T VW swap? I've seen a few and the end products look like a lot of fun.
For one thing, there's the sound!
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Old 06-10-2021, 12:46 PM   #1144
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https://www.boostbrothersgarage.com/...-swap-full-kit

thats the only engine that should go in there
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Old 06-10-2021, 01:20 PM   #1145
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Iím using the 600 series hanging pedals and mounting them to a frame like Kyle did in his wagon. Itís more work than I cared to do but I was never going to be able to get a booster or even just a dual-circuit master to fit in the engine bay so my brakes just werenít going to work properly.
Oh nice. I may end up going that route. Im about to give up on building a manifold and just try to hack up a KL racing one to fit. But that'll make it so I can't run a booster and a dual master brake setup in the car may be my only option.

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Congrats on the move - that looks like a great garage to get set up in. I'm still working on the layout in mine after almost 10 years...

Sweet 944 also, that must be a rare color, no? What about a 1.8T VW swap? I've seen a few and the end products look like a lot of fun.
Thanks, Chris. The garage is a little bigger than it looks in the photo, too. There's a bunch of space in front of the car. Excited to get it set up, 5-10 years from now!

Lots of engines make more sense, but the sound of a vr6...

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Gave up on SAABs and settled for a Porsche smh
I really did. I had a friend look at an SPG in LA that ended up being a complete mess. Then I found a super cool 5-door 900 that had a B202 swapped into it and a bunch of 87+ running gear. Missed it by a day, and was prepared to pay more than it ended up selling for. I was on the rebound and the Porsche came up within driving distance of the new house. Had to.

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For one thing, there's the sound!
Would love a Porsche that sounds like a wookie!

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https://www.boostbrothersgarage.com/...-swap-full-kit

thats the only engine that should go in there
I've been looking at that kit. I keep telling myself I want a nice simple NA car though. Which is exactly what the 944 is currently. But a 3.6 vr6 would be fun. Regardless, I really hope I don't end up swapping it. At least not until the 142 is completely done.
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Old 09-23-2021, 05:05 PM   #1146
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It's been another few months and I guess I've made enough progress for an update.

I FINALLY, after three attempts, have made an intake manifold for this thing. This one doesn't have nice velocity stacks inside and the runners are quite short, but at this point, I'm just glad I was able to stick the metal together.



The plenum is kind of a flat box, similar to the Ford Cosworth manifold, but with more volume. It clears everything, and should do the trick.

At this point, I could keep noodling on things with the mock up block and head in place, but I think it's time to pull the head and get it rebuilt (looking at you, culberro) to really force me to get it done. The bottom end is at a machine shop being bored for the forged pistons.

Once the engine comes out I can think about:
  • Finish welding motor mounts
  • Run new brake lines
  • Put .80 5th in the T5
  • Run fuel lines
  • Figure out IC mounting/air direction for coolers
  • Mount oil cooler
  • Mount new/different radiator and reservoir

So yeah, I'm not even close to finished, but steps are being made. Some time in the first half of 2022, that's my new goal.
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Old 09-23-2021, 06:10 PM   #1147
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Want some cam blanks to make the most of that (now) high RPM setup? There's a cam cutter near your new whereabouts...
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Old 09-23-2021, 06:10 PM   #1148
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Looks great in there! Good work man!
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Old 12-01-2021, 08:56 PM   #1149
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So, my engine has been at the machine shop for a couple months, and I've decided to completely redo the cooling stack on this car. On the 8 valve setup, I used a Northern Radiator that never really seemed to keep up. The car got really hot a few times, which may have contributed to the cracked block. So now I have a bigger Griffin radiator. I'm hoping it helps. I had to do all sorts of hackery to get it to fit. The lower core support that I made last year was low enough to fit the Griffin radiator, but I had to cut more width out of the front of the frame rails. Like this:



Then I had to make new vertical supports that bolt to the frame rails and run up to the stock upper radiator support, which has now been cut up quite a bit. Here's the new radiator in place:



Moving the radiator forward and down frees up space for a proper fan and shroud. I designed some parts in Illustrator and had Send Cut Send cut them out. I'm really pleased with their work and the whole ordering process, but now I know more about putting holes so close to bends. I was this close to having to scrap the whole thing, but some persuasion with the dead blow salvaged it.



I welded it up, and welded some attachment points with rivnuts onto the radiator, and it seems like it'll work. The square holes are for rubber flaps that I'll rivet in later.





The inlet is 1.5" and the outlet is an angled 1.75", so I'll need to sort that out, but for the most part, the radiator upgrade is done.


With that in, I decided to rearrange my eBay intercooler and stock 240 (I think?) oil cooler. I welded 90 degree bends onto the intercooler inlet/outlet, and -10 fittings to the oil cooler. I had planned on mounting them like this:



But then I realized I was hiding an already inefficient 21x7x2.5" intercooler behind the front body panel, so I started to think about better intercooler options. Packaging and cost led me to this 20x7.8x3.5" Mishimoto core, rated for 575 hp (whatever that means). I'll be mounting it in the grill opening, and moving the oil cooler down behind the body panel, probably with some more speed holes, or other ducting. But I feel good about an intercooler that's properly sized for my turbo.



That brings me to end tank design. I have some room to play with, but I keep coming up with a simple design like this:



The offset inlet and outlet would be slightly easier for packaging the charge tubing, but mostly it seems like not putting them directly across from each other would help use more of the core. Maybe pressurized air meeting the relatively restrictive core would disperse across all the rows, but it makes sense to me that the rows furthest from the in/out would see less flow.

Speaking of that, does anyone know if adding baffles to direct some air to the further rows is actually helpful? I've seen some baffled cast end tanks, but I assume some actual CFD analysis goes into that. I'd like to try bending up some simple .125 aluminum baffles, but I'm no scientist and I may end up hurting flow more than anything. Thoughts?
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Old 12-01-2021, 09:12 PM   #1150
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hey we're doing the same stuff right now, looks good. Fitting the monster Ron Davis and Garrett into my car is a fun little puzzle.

Personally I decided without trying to model it I was better of KISS and not putting anything into the flow path. I have talked about this with the guys at work who do the heat exchangers and honestly they don't have much to offer when they can't let the computer tell them what to do, then they just start talking about hydroform molds and high temp additive crimp-on tanks and it's not helpful advice for me

What are you going to use for the material for the tanks. I got some free 6 and 10" round tube we're playing with to make the front of the tank a nice radius (rear facing in/out), also bought a sheet of 5052. Both are .100". I see a lot of guys using .125" but it seems like overkill on a relatively small tank with minimal flat area?
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