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93 Volvo 240 b230ft/T5 build

BBates said:
I am rebuilding it myself, I got a real genuine Mitsubishi rebuild kit! I found someone to potentially rebalance the 13c for $60 ish. Just need to send in the rotor assembly pretty much.

Even though it’s a Regina chart, it gives me a baseline idea. So I’m thankful for that. I’ll look into it more, and see how things go. This is a knowledge I’d like to know for that “just incase” situation.
Click to expand...

There is no need to rebalance the 13c. Larger turbos, sure, not the 13/15/16 sizing used by Volvo - IF you mark the existing locknut/shaft/wheel & put everything back EXACTLY as it was.

Areas that HAVE to be spotlessly cleaned:

Remove all coking from the shaft & housing

V70XR_0988.jpg


V70XR_0987.jpg


V70XR_0986.jpg


V70XR_0985.jpg
 
lookforjoe said:
There is no need to rebalance the 13c. Larger turbos, sure, not the 13/15/16 sizing used by Volvo - IF you mark the existing locknut/shaft/wheel & put everything back EXACTLY as it was.

Areas that HAVE to be spotlessly cleaned:

Remove all coking from the shaft & housing
Click to expand...

Thank you again! This I didn?t know, I wondered about it though. It only makes sense that it?s already pre balanced.
I?m going to hit the parts store tomorrow AM for some parts cleaner.
I?m currently looking for the rebuild specs/torque specs now.
I?ll get my photos uploaded to photo bucket too, for a good update.
 
Well I guess leaving the URL will work for now.
So furthermore, I’ve got the motor out and tore down. Mostly, need to do the head tear down still. Here is a few photos, of the worst main bearing, cylinder, valves, and so on. Not all looked bad, but someone definitely let it sit with water in the cylinders. So im going to get my measurements, and see what size piston we will need. Anyone know how wiseco pistons sit with the cxracing rods? I got them in, along with just about everything else for the bottom end. Give or take a few things.
Worst main:
https://flic.kr/p/2mwFq4Q
Worst cylinder, by looks:
https://flic.kr/p/2mwFqgi
Bottom of head:
https://flic.kr/p/2mwAE5r
New rods, still need to double check dimensions:
https://flic.kr/p/2mwFq5X
I?’ve got a few other things done too, like an10 oil lines, etc. But we have all seen, and read about those hahah.

Im more likely, while waiting on pistons once ordered. The plan is to do my abs delete, and dual rear caliper install. The abs unit is starting to have intermittent issues, so no better time to do an upgrade! I will share how that goes. My bosses have been really getting me some good hours, for the sake of this build. The hard work is paying off though!
 
Well, Ive definitely been playing catch up. I was working night shift and found myself collecting parts, not working on the car.. So I made some changes. Hahah. Throughout the last month, its been slow and steady progress.
So, for starters. Ive been getting myself ready for dual calipers in the rear. However, who knows how long that package will take getting through customs. So until than, Ive been rebuilding brakes. I have one more set to do for the rear. And one set for the fronts to do still too.
https://flic.kr/p/2mKnhBe
And finished, https://flic.kr/p/2mKqMcs

Waiting on rear wheel/axle bearings before getting the brakes on. I would like to just do it all in one full swoop. In the meantime, I stripped more parts off the 740 wagon, and started pulling the suspension off the wagon. I got the rears on, and Im planning on getting a lighter rear spring. The rear bc springs work well for wagons Ive noticed. Not the sedans with weight reduced hahah.
https://flic.kr/p/2mKrVrY
And fronts waiting for the new rotors, pads, etc.
https://flic.kr/p/2mKifUk

I got slowed down on the abs delete when I realized I needed 2 plugs for the brake distribution box. So Im waiting for those few plugs, before I continue on with it.
I attempted a rebuild on my 13c and the turbine shaft snapped. It looked like it wasnt getting any oil at all, everything looked burnt up. So, Im getting a whole new chra that will be ready to install.

I dont have the notes on me, but later today I will post them. I got my cylinders measured out, and from my understanding. I will have to go to the 1st OS piston. Which Im relieved about.
Hopefullly this evening, I also will have a picture of the car with the front coils on. Pending on when the brakes get here.
 
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Well sorry to anyone who was keeping up on this build. Ive been busy with work, and building among other things. But Ive got lots done, and less to do! So needless to say, I was quite busy.

Im just going to bullet point it all out.

- wheel bearings/differential carrier/pinion bearings are done. Im installing a crush sleeve eliminator today for the pinion. And reinstalling the carrier should be checked off today too. Lets hope I can learn to do this without much of a headache. And the diff is now welded!
- in the process, I changed out all the bushings on the car. And that sure was a task, but well worth the time taken to do it. I had a mishap on a control arm, the oem style rubber bushing wasnt playing nice. So I went to a poly set up for the front control arm bushing.
- brakes have been painted, and set up with new hardware, pads, and rotors.
- coilovers are installed, along with a 250lb spring in the rear. Which should be a noticeable difference from the stock bc springs. And an fyi, for those of you wanting to do the same. All star performance makes a 2.5 to 5in spring adapter. So I could run an eibach spring in the rear with the BC coilover adjustment sleeve.
- 3an brake line conversion is happening amidst everything, and an abs delete as well. I just need to make a bracket for my wilwood proportioning valve. (Btw, if someone has figured out a good brake booster delete for any 2/7/9 series car. Let me know please. Ive looked at chase bays, honed brake performance, and a few other ideas like a delete plate and changing the brake pedal ratio to a 6:1 ratio. These are ideas, but If someone has something I dont know of. Or wants to work with me on producing a 6:1 pedal ratio modification/adapter. Than Lmk!)
- I took a break from the hydro set up, seeing as I had so much more on my plate. But that should all be coming to a close. (I do have hydraulic handbrake mounts available for sale through my sponsors store. @LevelrideConcepts. And the dual caliper brackets Ive been working on are near complete.)
- And, im in the market for a seat. Either a bride lowmox, nrg or similar. That will help the hydro sit in a better position.

Lots of things have been changed according to the original plan Id had for my car. But Im glad I took a step back to ensure my car could stop, turn, and act as it should before I started either adding my plus T or taking an engine in to the machine shop. Along this whole process, Ive been filming a lot. And Im hoping in the next week, I can release my first Volvo related YouTube video. Its been a good few years since I did any editing so Ive been relearning on new programs Ive never used until now. (I miss Sony Vegas pro13 lol). Im going to hop on the computer and see if I can figure out how to properly upload pictures here too. Ive struggled with that, and I wonder if its my phones fault honestly.

Anyways, thanks to anyone who has taken an interest in this build. Spite not having the best photos, or figuring out how to upload them without the links popping up. So hopefully, I can change that this evening! And thank you to those who let me pick their brains over and over about Volvo related info/knowledge. I appreciate the passing down of this knowledge and am grateful.
 
Well havent made much for any posts recently. Been focusing on getting the chassis dialed in. And work, Im trying to get a millwrights apprenticeship. Im on a laptop, so I hope my photos upload. Im using flickr. Theres a lot im forgetting to post on too.

But jumping into it. I shortened my downpipe/collector pipe just about an inch. Almost to much. So its a tight fit. But sure did help with clearance issues.

album-72157719941944403


album-72157719941944403


Since rebuilding 93 48T 1031 dana volvo axle, Ive replaced it with a 12t tone ring model. Upgraded with BNE spherical bushings, torque and pan hard bars too. I started getting noise out of the rebuilt axle and wanted to make sure its professionally looked at. I may not have gotten my clearances just right. So, the new or old axle is in place now. Havent drove on it yet. I went to get the brakes put back on, and everything was dragging. I removed the dual calipers for simplification. And I threw 3 boosters at it, check valves, master cylinders, lines, etc. And could not get it dialed in. Luckily I had the extra parts laying around to test with. Now looking back, I think my prop valve for my abs delete was the culprit.

album-72157719941944403


album-72157719941944403


That led me into another modification, or upgrade, a booster delete. I am currently waiting to drive the car, before I really spill the beans. But it is a manual brake set up, with a pedal ratio change. I do have it installed. I think if it works out, intake manifold clearance issues for 16v head swaps, v8s, etc. could be resolved more easily. Currently working on a write up for this. I want it to be done well.

album-72157719941944403


I had a bad hub, or damage to my non abs strut/spindle. So I swapped over to an abs spindle/strut. And now have the 48t tone ring up on the front right wheel.
So I am now looking to get my speedometer working. My cars a 93, with abs delete. I have the harness still in place, computers removed and abs bulb removed. I keep getting my 3-1-1 code. Ive read that there are two plugs that need to be unplugged, or plugged into each other to get the speedometer working after an abs delete? Can someone verify this?

I do have both non abs and abs clusters/speedometers. And i still have my abs computers if needed.
Im looking at what would be the easiest solution potentially. Or some experienced input.
Ive been stumped looking for the answer to this speedometer issue.

Heres a photo of the car, I sure hope these work.

album-72157719941944403


Thanks!

Flickr album for Car: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmWNLrfB
Insta: @brent_bates
 
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Wow I suck thread/build updates. Lol.
I’ve gone ahead and done Waay to much to simply just update the build.

So long story short, I’ve converted to a 6:1 pedal ratio, manual brake conversion. Working on a write up for it still. Used a chase bay’s component. And have been doing some R&D mid write up. So things are still in process there.
But it requires no modification to the pedal box, oem pedal is used, and it feeels so good to drive on. And it’s easier to access than an oem booster.

I installed a 10lb jegs heater. And that was pretty fun. It’s a no weld solution.

I’ve got my suspension absolutely dialed in.


And I’m doing my Ft swap now. Engine is in the machine shop getting worked to be “ol reliable”. My NA block ended up being a squirter. Lol. So I’m making sure the lower end is solid.

I’m not even sure how to post pictures without ending up with just a url. So lll try it again


Instagram link: https://instagram.com/brent_bates?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=


And here is my YouTube channel. Slowly but surely making posts there too. And I’ll likely change the channel name soon enough. But here’s a link to that too.

Subscribe to it, and you won’t miss my next video showing the manual brake conversion.

 
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