Vintage B20 distributor collars?

Probably a dumb question, but that's what I'm all about. Here we go.

I've been fighting this old cast iron distributor on my B20 for like four months now. The points are all worn out, and because there's no identifying numbers or a plate of any kind, I can't figure out what model it is. I've bought every possible combination of points, and they just don't fit.



I really don't want to run my Titanic-spec distributor with wasted points, so I'm just buying a new production Bosch 009, which I think is what it's supposed to be.

The trouble is, I can't find anyone that makes or sells the little collar that mounts the distributor to the block, the thing with the little bolt that allows you to loosen up the shaft and manually advance or retard timing. I tried prying my old one off, but it appears to have terminal rust. I tried PB blaster and brake fluid. It's not moving.



Does anyone know where I can find one of these collars?

Borrow and impact wrench. It will either loosen the nut or snap the bolt, either way mission accomplished.

Hello,

We've got good used distributor bases if you wind up damaging yours. We also have the gasket.

Who has new 009 distributors for Volvos? I'm pretty sure that new 009 distributors for VWs are being made, but the 009 for a Volvo is a different distributor even though they look the same, They don't even turn in the same direction.

Boy is that a rusty scupper, but I think the distributor in your picture is a 099 which is an early B20 distributor with vacuum retard. The Bosch part number should be stamped into the case next to the condenser and partially under the vacuum retard servo and should be "0 231 146 099".

Only the early B18 distributors had ID plates riveted to the distributor housing, but IIRC, the Bosch part number is stamped into the housing starting with the 009,

FYI, we've got all the tune up parts you need and all of them are original Bosch parts.

Don't use brake fluid to loosen that thing, just stick to PB Blaster and heat.

I can't say this enough: contact Eric (Planetman) and get the parts you need from him. You'll know you'll be getting the right parts and won't have to waste hours trying to source what you need.

Props to you for trying to get the car back on the road, most of us would have given up due to the rust by now. I hope it pays you back in spades with some good driving later.

The distributor case itself seems to be completely void of any numbers. I checked by the condenser and everything. The only thing externally marked is the condenser itself, with the numbers 1 237 330 292.

EDIT: Tearing the dizzy apart isn't helping. There's no PNs stamping inside on any parts, apart from the US patent number for the stabilizer.

Hello,

You should be able to see where the number is stamped in the picture below.

Your housing is very rusty but the numbers are stamped pretty deep so you might have to attack it with a wire brush or wire wheel before you can read the numbers.


https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/PK4AAOSwKptca3PE/s-l1600.jpg

I don't see any engravings on that side, however I do see these little rivets in right about the same place where an identifying plate would be.

Hello,

I stand corrected. You must have an early version of the 099.

I found a picture of the 1 that has the riveted plate.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/0V0AAOSwRgJXh7-k/s-l1600.jpg

Try soaking the distributor bottom end in a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone for a day or 2. That?s a good penetrant solution that can work where others have failed.

Your distributor has the interesting retrofit of a zerk fitting in place of the original oiler. Makes me wonder if the shaft bearings might be a little past it.

This being Turbobricks, I am surprised that nobody has suggested taking a pneumatic cut off wheel, dremel tool or a hacksaw to cut off the nut. The acetone / ATF solution is an excellent penetrating solution; but, I think that bolt and nut is beyond penetrating solutions.