240 1987 Volvo 245 Intermitant No start! Help!

Ok, I bought this car last year as a nonrunner, got it running, did a water pump, some hoses and timing belt, and a few other items to make sure the car was good to go, and have been driving it for almost 2 months every day, with only 2 instances of no start. once I was at a buddys, tried to jump his 1957 mga with it and it refuses to start again until about an hour of waiting. second time I stalled on a hill, managed to pop start it and it continued on for a while after it.
A hose got rubbed through by the dip stick, and sprayed coolant allll over the driver side of the engine from the firewall and got a lot of components wet under the intake. a few days after I caught the leak and botched it enough to drive without it spraying I made it 10 feet from work and the car died and refused to restart for an hour. tested fuel pumps. They work, unplugged everything, and plugged it in when the car was a no start, and nothing made a direct difference, when the car ran it either ran perfect or would run pig rich, to the point the exhaust smelled like raw fuel and the car would backfire, and when revved the engine would fall on its face and almost die. Think it's timing? It still runs normally sometimes. I probed the injectors looking for 12 volts hot side, and when the car was a no start the hot side wouldn't get 12 volts. I've been spending days staring at the engine disappointed not knowing where to even begin. the fuel pump relay buzzes sometimes, less so that I've cleaned the grounds, but it still buzzes when it doesn't start

I need a good starting place, and some help with this one because I am stumped, and don't know where to go from here and want to use this car and it's just told me no and that's that

sorry if the big post is a little long, I'm trying to give as much info as I can for some help

Inspect hall sensor.

Is there spark and fuel injector pulse?

If the engine is missing 12v at the injectors when it is not starting. That can be the radio suppression relay or it's connections. It's a relay on the left side of the engine on the inner left fender. You may have a couple of issues going on. Check the engine carefully for vacuum leaks and split hoses. Also the battery is near the ignition amp on the inner left fender. Make sure the connector on it is clean and tight. Lastly as Z suggests you'll want to remove the distributor cap and check inside for oil leaking into it from the cylinder head. The seal on the distributor shaft can leak engine oil into the cap and cause random stalling and no starts. Be very careful with the connector for the hall sensor. They get very brittle and the connections fail causing the same kind of issues.

thank you, I haven't had time till today to start going at it on the car again. would the Radio Suppression relay be behind the fender in the inner wheel well? I've been trying to look for it. Going under the distrubuter cap, there was evidence of moisture, not enough to keep the car from running, because I took it for a drive, but the screws holding in the Hall sensor were pretty crusty looking, so I want to replace that. my question is how do you remove the metal piece on the shaft above the sensor?

dl242gt said:

If the engine is missing 12v at the injectors when it is not starting. That can be the radio suppression relay or it's connections. It's a relay on the left side of the engine on the inner left fender. You may have a couple of issues going on. Check the engine carefully for vacuum leaks and split hoses. Also the battery is near the ignition amp on the inner left fender. Make sure the connector on it is clean and tight. Lastly as Z suggests you'll want to remove the distributor cap and check inside for oil leaking into it from the cylinder head. The seal on the distributor shaft can leak engine oil into the cap and cause random stalling and no starts. Be very careful with the connector for the hall sensor. They get very brittle and the connections fail causing the same kind of issues.

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I thought radio suppression relay was a 740 thing. For a 245 it would just be the fuel pump relay to check maybe?

It might be, I don't know, but I have replaced the fuel pump relay already and the problem started immediately after. Both new and old fuel pump relays, it does not matter, it doesn't work. They do both occasionally make buzzing noises when the car won't start, but the pumps are running

Wizardwolf said:

It might be, I don't know, but I have replaced the fuel pump relay already and the problem started immediately after. Both new and old fuel pump relays, it does not matter, it doesn't work. They do both occasionally make buzzing noises when the car won't start, but the pumps are running

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I'm in the same boat, working through a no start on my 745.

Things I've looked at so far:

• Radio suppression relay and it's wiring. Wiring and the plug are all sound, and the relay can be easily pulled apart (thin layer of sealing silicone removed from the base and then the base can unclip by spreading the long sides slightly). I saw a small amount of marking on the high voltage contact and cleaned that with glossy paper and WD40.
• Crank position sensor, tacho needle bounces when turning over on the starter motor - so CPS passes the basic test.
• Car will attempt to start with a spray of starting fluid into an intake manifold port.

Also pulled all fuses one by one to check for evidence of arcing or corrosion and that the fuse is still intact.

I've now dismantled most of the center console for easy access to the relay tray, and will be checking the fuel relay next.

After that I'll be testing the main fuel pump.

Hope this is useful in terms of ideas for you.