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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

So I travelled 200km and potentially used nearly half a tank of gas according to the gauge...oof. I filled up before I left but didn't stop to fill up when I got back, like I should have, so I can't say for sure what the MPG was...but I think it was bad. I'm still having the issue where it's lean surgey at 80kph (limit on minor hwys) and kinda richy at 100kph (limit on major hwys). I don't think I need more jets to try, because I've got most of them (seriously...$$$ :( ), but there's definitely something up. If I had to say, I'd blame the very-obvious huge overlap the PZ cams have but I can't afford to fire the parts cannon anymore :(. Reducing the overlap MIGHT help, but there's no specs for these cams anywhere so I can't even say I'm on the right track. I've had to run some big pump jets, a 0 bleedback valve, and a 3x stiffer than stock acc pump spring, just to try to overcome a lean transition that shouldn't exist, IMO...so there's definitely something I'm missing. The wideband readings are really bouncy due to having it mounted in only one runner of the downpipe too, so I am not sure I can even trust it. I've tried going by feel...but the MPG seems to back up the gauge...kinda.

I do NOT want to give up on the carbs, but I am not having any fun at all this year. I haven't driven it in a couple weeks because I just don't want to deal with it. :( Does anyone know a CHEAP (maybe free) way to advance/retard stock 16v cams? I've considered removing them and drilling new locator holes for the dowel pins, but the last thing I want to do is eff up my cam gears.

It's really looking like I'll be pulling and selling the 16v stuff sooner than expected, if I can't find a tuning compromise. I cannot spend any more money on this setup this year, the budget is at full stop.
 
I found some cheap eBay/Alibaba 16v timing gears a while back. I think they were $50/ea. I?m sure Harlard probably has a set of slightly mangled ones he could sell you.

What rpm are you seeing the lean and rich conditions at? Does it happen in other gears, but at the same rpm?

What?s the AFR in cruise when it?s lean and rich?
 
culberro said:
I found some cheap eBay/Alibaba 16v timing gears a while back. I think they were $50/ea. I?m sure Harlard probably has a set of slightly mangled ones he could sell you.
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They are mint, thankyouverymuch.

I'm also shocked at how nice they are.
 
culberro said:
I found some cheap eBay/Alibaba 16v timing gears a while back. I think they were $50/ea. I?m sure Harlard probably has a set of slightly mangled ones he could sell you.
Click to expand...
I'll do more searching on the chinese sites, I didn't even think of that. Thanks!

What rpm are you seeing the lean and rich conditions at? Does it happen in other gears, but at the same rpm?
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The problem RPM is ~2300. If I tune it for leaner at that point...it's SUPER lean above that. If I tune it by feel and smooth it out there...it gets way too rich above. The issue is that @2300, I'm at highway (100kph) speed in 5th. If I try to use 5th at 80kph (minor hwy speeds), I'm at 1900rpm...and it is rich and luggy. For that reason, I use 4th on the minor hwys, which then puts me at 2600. If I tune for decent 2300 cruise...2600 is off the scale lean. If I tune for 2600 rpm cruise, then 2300 is silly rich. If I could get a shorter rear end, like 4.10 (3.373 currently) or a shorter 5th (currently .73 IIRC), it MIGHT help...but I am so exhausted already, lol.
What?s the AFR in cruise when it?s lean and rich?
Click to expand...
When I tune for 13.5-14.5 cruise at 100kph in 5th, I get 15-17 (and surging) at 80 (which is 2600 due to using 4th). The problem is definitely compounded by gearing, which is probably not the best choice for the car if I'm staying carbed. I suspect reducing overlap could help a bit, but I'm definitely shooting blind at this point.
 
culberro said:
Also that?s like 25 MPGs? which is pretty darn good (assuming 5-gallons of fuel used)
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I honestly have no idea how much fuel I used because I didn't stop and fill back up like I should have. The gauge in these cars is horrible, so I don't really trust it all that much. It says I burned half a tank, but I don't know exactly. I could be fabricating all these issues in my head, who knows. If I can drag myself out of my self-pity, I'll go to the gas station and add the distance to the record from my last trip and see for myself if I'm just being a goober or not.
 
It sounds like a harmonic issue, which changing the overlap and cam timing will definitely change that. Gotta love carbs where they add fuel when the air moves through the carb on wave reflections.

I'm not sure if you have a bunch of air horns or a 3d printer, but changing the lengths of the air-horns can help at part throttle but it's mostly a WOT throttle tuning tool.

Looks like $90 USD for 16v cam gears from aliexpress, might be cheaper on alibaba.
 
Well, as much as it pains me to admit...I've called it quits on the 16v stuff due to a few different reasons. I may be on a bit of extended leave from work so I've decided to use that time to do the LS swap. I'm a hydraulic throwout bearing away from having everything I need so I will be pulling the 16v out soon.

Yep...ANOTHER engine swap :).
 
Well, they're FAJS versions, but they work perfectly and are even better than the other set of chinese clones I have here. The quality of materials and machining is actually higher, probably on par with genuine ones. They look pretty nice next to the genuine DCOE40s I have as well. Interested? ;)
 
Broke4speed said:
Well, they're FAJS versions, but they work perfectly and are even better than the other set of chinese clones I have here. The quality of materials and machining is actually higher, probably on par with genuine ones. They look pretty nice next to the genuine DCOE40s I have as well. Interested? ;)
Click to expand...

Definitely interested in some 45s. There?s a classic/vintage stage rally that?s starting up, and I?m waiting to hear back on if ITB efi will be legal? or do I have to go with carbs.
 
Broke4speed said:
Well, as much as it pains me to admit...I've called it quits on the 16v stuff due to a few different reasons. I may be on a bit of extended leave from work so I've decided to use that time to do the LS swap. I'm a hydraulic throwout bearing away from having everything I need so I will be pulling the 16v out soon.

Yep...ANOTHER engine swap :).
Click to expand...

Okay man, but like, get this; if you LS swap it you're still gonna have a 16 valve.

16 valve purgatory, man. That's like, a bummer.
 
As of yesterday I received the final parts I need to do the full install of the engine/trans. Starting next week, the 16v redblock will be getting pulled and I'll be finishing the hydraulic clutch conversion. I may notch the crossmember slightly to make it easier to put the engine/trans in as a unit. Once the 16v is out I can swap the T5 over to the LS and set up the hydraulic throwout bearing with the neat tool I got from Speedway Motors to make it easier, since I am not precise and I do not understand freedom units of measurement when determining shims and such.

Then I cross my fingers that I can get the engine in the bay such that I'm able to re-use my current one-piece driveshaft.
 
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