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TD04 16t rebuild

PNW760

PNW760

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Location
St. Louis, MO
Began taking apart my 16t for re-clocking and as I was taking it apart, the compressor wheel looks really crusty and my snap ring just broke in half.
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1. Is this normal for snap rings to just break in half? I thought they were supposed to withstand a lot of pressure? Me taking it off with snap ring pliers shouldn't cause it to break?

What size is the snap ring for a replacement? I found this snap ring on ebay but the shape isn't quite the same with the notches cut into it, it looks beveled however like the snap-ring, which I know is a requirement.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/383897895579?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D377db3876c7741b792e36cc176b83820%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D383897895579%26itm%3D383897895579%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DKinugawa&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A99247a0c-0205-11ed-8e43-d2e2780fd999%7Cparentrq%3Af3647ecc1810a45b09b9e1d1fff1b1ce%7Ciid%3A1

2. How borked is this turbo? Especially with the rust/grime/crust inside the CHRA and on the compressor wheel? Rebuild the whole thing, or just slap it together and pray to redblock Jesus that it works?
 
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PNW760 said:
1. Is this normal for snap rings to just break in half? I thought they were supposed to withstand a lot of pressure? Me taking it off with snap ring pliers shouldn't cause it to break?

What size is the snap ring for a replacement? I found this snap ring on ebay but the shape isn't quite the same with the notches cut into it, it looks beveled however like the snap-ring, which I know is a requirement.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/38389789557...b1ce|iid:1

2. How borked is this turbo? Especially with the rust/grime/crust inside the CHRA and on the compressor wheel? Rebuild the whole thing, or just slap it together and pray to redblock Jesus that it works?
Click to expand...

1. I would say that's not normal, I have never had one break in half like that. I have man-handled quite a few snap rings without the right tools on hand.

2. your link is not working for me, but this should work Turbo Retaining Ring for Mitsubishi TD04

3. I would give it a good cleaning, I am no turbo expert but I would use it. you're into this far you might consider a rebuild kit and it looks like it has a new snap ring included. I can't vouch for the kit quality, for a 100ish you can get a Mitsubishi kit.
 
I have never had one snap in half. I haven't rebuilt often enough to know what's normal.

If it's just grime I'd shoot some carb cleaner on it and clean it with a soft bristle brush. If nothing is chipped, cracked, or bent I think you'll be okay. Do you know if this turbo built boost?

You should be able to find complete rebuild kits. Just mark the wheels before disassembly so you can get it close to balanced upon reassembly.
 
ovlov760 said:
You should be able to find complete rebuild kits. Just mark the wheels before disassembly so you can get it close to balanced upon reassembly.
Click to expand...

Oops.



So if I took off the compressor wheel without marking it, how bad is that? I?m assuming the notches cut in the wheel are for balancing. Is there a way to balance at home or do I have to send it off? Because I might as well buy a pre-built CHRA rather than sending this off to get rebuilt and balanced
 
PNW760 said:
Oops.



So if I took off the compressor wheel without marking it, how bad is that? I?m assuming the notches cut in the wheel are for balancing. Is there a way to balance at home or do I have to send it off? Because I might as well buy a pre-built CHRA rather than sending this off to get rebuilt and balanced
Click to expand...

This option would be the easiest. I have bought many parts from this vendor. Good quality. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2819139554...5ALg/QbXbdI3BvxD+rmbaoABl8aA|tkp:BFBMtuX6hr9g
 
PNW760 said:
Oops.



So if I took off the compressor wheel without marking it, how bad is that? I?m assuming the notches cut in the wheel are for balancing. Is there a way to balance at home or do I have to send it off? Because I might as well buy a pre-built CHRA rather than sending this off to get rebuilt and balanced
Click to expand...

I don't know of a way to do it at home. I've gotten away with forgetting to mark the wheels on Garrett T3 turbos.
 
Meaning I wouldn?t need to mark it when taking it apart and putting it back together doesn?t a need a specific orientation in relation to the rest of CHRA components?
 
Let me rephrase it: when I rebuilt the 15g in my car, I do not remember keeping its moving parts lined up with respect to each other. So far it has not chewed itself up, but that does not mean tomorrow it will not destroy itself.

I remember reading about its parts being balanced separately but I can't find that info again. Safest bet is to assume you need to keep things lined up. There are people in this very forum who have changed compressor wheels in their turbo; they would know this better than me.

To mark the parts before disassembling, when you get to the CHRA make a cardboard jig that goes all the way to the shaft and then mark where the compressor, turbine, and nut touch it with sharpie. Once you take it apart, be very careful not to clean the marks out.

Or, just buy a replacement CHRA and be done.
 
The impeller & compressor wheel are balanced as an assembly. Putting it back together without the original lineup will cause imbalance & wear to the bearings. Doesn't mean it will die immediately, however it will reduce the life of the turbo. There are places you can send the compressor wheel & impeller for balancing, or the entire CHRA so you don't have to deal.

If you are doing it yourself, the cartridge needs thorough cleaning / decoking. I took these pics many years ago to show the areas of importance

V70XR_0987.jpg


V70XR_0986.jpg


V70XR_0985.jpg


hot side shaft seal (ring) seat area

V70XR_0988.jpg
 
or just do it like me and buy 250? chinesium brand new 19t from Ebay. the first one died when my engine lost a rod and bent the other three like 17-29 psi for 10k km. the one i have now has only 500km on it but zero play in it and i dont run a bov and have a cbv block off plate for the Stutututu. i also use rolling antilag often when doing roll races only on private roads ofc
 
A cheap ultrasonic cleaner from Amazon should clean most of that up for you. I?d assume most of the rebuild kits are from China so how much difference is there between those and a China eBay chra?
 
AndrewNance said:
A cheap ultrasonic cleaner from Amazon should clean most of that up for you. I?d assume most of the rebuild kits are from China so how much difference is there between those and a China eBay chra?
Click to expand...

All the important parts such as the cartridge impeller & wheel quality, perhaps :lol:
 
Bloody244 said:
or just do it like me and buy 250? chinesium brand new 19t from Ebay. the first one died when my engine lost a rod and bent the other three like 17-29 psi for 10k km. the one i have now has only 500km on it but zero play in it and i dont run a bov and have a cbv block off plate for the Stutututu. i also use rolling antilag often when doing roll races only on private roads ofc
Click to expand...

The 16t CHRA that was linked above is $170, where the rebuild kit + shipping to G pop shop + paying for a balance comes out to like $150? I?m that case it almost makes more sense to just buy the prebuilt one from eBay and pray to the redblock gods that it won?t implode
 
redblockpowered said:
When I asked someone at MHI I was told turbo CHRAs were component balanced, not assembly balanced.
Click to expand...

I?m trying to figure out if this means I can just reassemble then? None of the fins on the wheels on either side are damaged so I?m assuming if everything is good it can be re-installed and it?ll be fine?
 
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