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Old 04-23-2021, 01:38 AM   #26
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Replaced the junkyard cap and rotor with new ones. Helped my ignition breakup over 15 psi a little but it's still there. I have a summit racing ignition box and coil on the way, we'll see if that helps.



Still waiting for the local e85 pump to open up so I can stop driving an hour out to the nearest one. The OD button on the shifter rarely works so I'll need to see it I can remove it and deoxit. Being stuck in 4th+lockup sucks for spooling and 2nd is too much acceleration lol.

Also I seem to have lost idling vacuum, before it would idle at 19 inHG and now it's at 15/16. In drive it's even worse. Haven't been able to find any boost leaks but I'll need to make/borrow a leak tester to see.
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Last edited by Xeroni; 04-23-2021 at 01:45 AM..
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Old 05-03-2021, 12:13 AM   #27
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Chasing exhaust leaks.



New j pipe to manifold gasket



Fancy copper manifold gasket



Replaced some cracked belts



and finally a new fuel filter



Sounds like I got most of the leaks but I still hear a little leak as the boost builds up.
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Old 05-03-2021, 06:48 AM   #28
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nice! where did you get the copper gasket?
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Old 05-03-2021, 04:21 PM   #29
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nice! where did you get the copper gasket?
KL Racing sells them, I wanted to grab an intercooler and hose kit but they've been out of stock forever.
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Old 05-04-2021, 01:04 AM   #30
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Hey do you want or need a b234 block? Or rods and pistons? Free if you want it. Crank also.
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Old 05-05-2021, 12:18 AM   #31
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Hey do you want or need a b234 block? Or rods and pistons? Free if you want it. Crank also.
Thanks but I don't need one. I still have the old engine from this car on the stand waiting for me to decide what to do with it.
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Old 05-05-2021, 06:48 AM   #32
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Hey do you want or need a b234 block? Or rods and pistons? Free if you want it. Crank also.

Are you truly trying to give the block rods ,pistons, and crank away for free? Sorry I had to ask.

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Old 05-19-2021, 10:01 PM   #33
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Solved my fuel issues by putting a DW200 in the tank. Ran a power wire from the battery to a relay triggered by the factory intank wiring. Replaced all the factory rubber lines up to the filter with high pressure fuel injection hose and removed the main pump by putting a M14 banjo to barb fitting on the filter input. Plenty of fuel now. Now I need to install the wasted spark board to stop the spark blowout.
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Old 05-21-2021, 12:17 PM   #34
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Looks great! I always felt the 740/940 fuel sending unit was of especially evil design.

Love the j-pipe. Yours is braced much better than mine was.
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Old 05-21-2021, 12:23 PM   #35
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Not commenting much, but following closely. Looks good so far. I also hate that sending unit.
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Old 05-22-2021, 01:01 AM   #36
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Looks great! I always felt the 740/940 fuel sending unit was of especially evil design.

Love the j-pipe. Yours is braced much better than mine was.
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Not commenting much, but following closely. Looks good so far. I also hate that sending unit.
Removing the sending unit was the worst part. 30 minutes of rotating and cursing a mm at a time. Installing it was as much as a pain.

With the J pipe I would have totally gone with a 90+ but the head width plus adapter would have pushed the turbo into the strut tower. I'll probably end up taking it off and fully welding it to the manifold since I can't stop it from having a tiny annoying leak.
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Old 05-22-2021, 01:20 AM   #37
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I should have done a j pipe too. Had to bash my strut tower and access is a nightmare.
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Old 05-22-2021, 05:29 AM   #38
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I think I ended up adding more metal to the lower flange via welding and grinding it smooth again, but i definitely used two gaskets between the manifold and jpipe.
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Old 05-28-2021, 01:40 AM   #39
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With soldering help from a friend I got the wasted spark board installed.



Using a 960 ignition module ($30 from Rock Auto) and a 95 Kia Sportage 2.0 SOHC coil pack ($5.43 from RA). The Kia happens to have the same coil pack as the Bosch one that is recommended but at a steeeep discount. Right now the coil is zipped tied where the stock one is but I need to make a bracket to hold it permanently.
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Old 05-28-2021, 02:42 PM   #40
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a 95 Kia Sportage 2.0 SOHC coil pack ($5.43 from RA). The Kia happens to have the same coil pack as the Bosch one that is recommended but at a steeeep discount.
wow! what a find. I think I paid $65 for mine a year or two ago. Do you have it physically already? Could you measure the primary and secondary DC resistance? I'd like to compare with my OE bosch one.
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Old 05-28-2021, 09:25 PM   #41
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wow! what a find. I think I paid $65 for mine a year or two ago. Do you have it physically already? Could you measure the primary and secondary DC resistance? I'd like to compare with my OE bosch one.
Yeah it's installed on the car.

Primary is 0.7 Ohms. I got no reading measuring from a negative to a high voltage plug though. Is there a special way of reading secondary resistance on a wasted spark coil?
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Old 06-06-2021, 01:24 AM   #42
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Got rid of the mess of lines and abs module that was in the way of the turbo





I hate making brake line fittings. At least there was so much that I could reuse old sections and only had to make one hard to reach fitting on the car.



My favorite way of one man bleeding.

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Old 06-14-2021, 10:19 PM   #43
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3in MAF installed



and updated table in my tune

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Old 12-05-2021, 12:35 AM   #44
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Hey it's been a few months, and I've actually managed to do some thing.

One of the factory lifters was ticking so they all go replaced.




Broke a corner of the valved cover from over tightening it, so that go a dab of JB Weld.



And the overdrive gave out on the stock AW71L so in went a AW71. Still having problems with that but more on it later.




I started it one day to pull it into the garage when it lost all power and died. After hours of searching I found a chafed fuel pump power wire that fell apart when I grabbed it.



As for the transmission, it works great besides the fact that it doesn't go into overdrive. It worked fine before it pulled it out of the donor so I think so debris got into the overdrive passage when I had the solenoid up. I'm going to try and find a way to suck it out without having to drop the pan and valve body hopefully.
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Old 12-13-2021, 03:06 AM   #45
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what kind of engine management are you using, could you more in depth on that
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Old 12-13-2021, 01:41 PM   #46
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what kind of engine management are you using, could you more in depth on that
Factory LH2.4 with my own custom fuel and ignition chips.
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Old 03-22-2022, 07:16 PM   #47
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How’s this 16v+T running?
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Old 03-26-2022, 11:02 PM   #48
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How’s this 16v+T running?
It's great besides the random stumble during cruise.
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Old 03-27-2022, 08:31 AM   #49
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It's great besides the random stumble during cruise.
I've never run an LH 2.4 setup like yours, but I have had a similar stumble during cruise before with my SDS EFI. It was always related to an intermittent lean out when closed loop was activated. The stumble always went away and AFRs stabilized if I turned off closed loop until I could try a different tune. You're custom setup may not have the option of turning off closed loop, but it may be related to the stumble.
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Old 03-30-2022, 10:05 PM   #50
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I've never run an LH 2.4 setup like yours, but I have had a similar stumble during cruise before with my SDS EFI. It was always related to an intermittent lean out when closed loop was activated. The stumble always went away and AFRs stabilized if I turned off closed loop until I could try a different tune. You're custom setup may not have the option of turning off closed loop, but it may be related to the stumble.
Dave
I thought the same thing too, possible bad o2 or something. I disabled closed loop a while back and it did make it run better when it does act up since it doesn't try to compensate. I did have to clean up the ECT sensor connector since it had a case of the green crusties. It's possible that the corrosion still lives up the pigtail but I've yet to check it.
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