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240 rear axle tab dimensions

turbochimp

Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2011
I'm doing an 8.8 swap and have been planning on getting all the tabs made on a water-jet.

At this point, I'm not entirely sure how to spec the diameter for the rear axle bushing tab to produce the required press-fit. I plan on using Ben's/Kaplehenke (alum shell) spherical bushing for this. Does anyone have a diameter spec for stock or some advice on how much smaller to make the tab diameter assuming 3/16-1/4" steel tabs? I read Ben saying that shaving a little aluminum during install is ok - the ptfe inserts are removable so heat/freeze is on the table.

Thanks!
 
Yeah, that's an option but not my first. Was hoping to have axle pre-assembled before the swap. The donor I have seems too rusty to use.
 
... tabs made on a water-jet.

At this point, I'm not entirely sure how to spec the diameter for the rear axle bushing tab to produce the required press-fit. I plan on using Ben's/Kaplehenke (alum shell) spherical bushing for this. Does anyone have a diameter spec for stock or some advice on how much smaller to make the tab diameter assuming 3/16-1/4" steel tabs? I read Ben saying that shaving a little aluminum during install is ok - the ptfe inserts are removable so heat/freeze is on the table.

Thanks!

Water jet is usually +/- 5 thou on tolerance. You want a 1-2 thou for pressing those in if you're using 3/16 or 1/4" material. Waterjet will not get you what you want. You'd have to post machine or spend some time with a die-grinder.

Other option: get a steel bearing cup that's fitted for whatever bearing size Ben uses and weld it to some tabs. No issues with tolerance and you won't have to press the aluminum housings in.
 
Or get some steel sleeves made for full length press fit. You might need a special cylinder made up to keep the tabs aligned (concentric and parallel) when welding anyways. You could get 2 sleeves made up and zap them in without too much misalignment paranoia.
 
Or get some steel sleeves made for full length press fit. You might need a special cylinder made up to keep the tabs aligned (concentric and parallel) when welding anyways. You could get 2 sleeves made up and zap them in without too much misalignment paranoia.

They're tapered and different IDs by ~1mm.

Still like my idea of tabs and all cut off so everything is still aligned.
 
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