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Old 01-07-2020, 02:51 AM   #51
klr142
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Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Ehhh, You could push a shaved head a lot more than that
Sure, you can, but any material removed reduces it's ability to deal with heat and can likely make it easier to warp if situations aren't ideal. I don't know how much of a problem that actually is, but Thomas(RIP) was always a stickler about keeping these durable redblocks durable.

Lots of good info in his car/engine related galleries here, if you haven't seen this stuff yet: https://www.pbase.com/stealthfti
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Old 01-07-2020, 01:36 PM   #52
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Thanks for that link!
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Old 01-07-2020, 03:12 PM   #53
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Seems a lot of trouble and expense to salvage something that's going to be compromised and is dirt cheap & readily available in the junkyards in much better condition.

Heck you could even get one off of a Turbo car that has SS exhaust valves....

But hey what do I know?

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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 01-07-2020, 03:38 PM   #54
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Heck you could even get one off of a Turbo car that has SS exhaust valves....

But hey what do I know?

I agree that the heads are cheap to get, but I don't agree that the turbo cars have SS exhaust valves... Come on Ken, you're forgetting things! The original exhaust valves in the turbo heads were sodium filled to help with the transfer of heat out of the valves.
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Old 01-07-2020, 03:45 PM   #55
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I agree that the heads are cheap to get, but I don't agree that the turbo cars have SS exhaust valves... Come on Ken, you're forgetting things! The original exhaust valves in the turbo heads were sodium filled to help with the transfer of heat out of the valves.
They're not magnetic (well very slightly magnetic).... Which doesn't necessarily mean SS or not-SS.
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Old 01-07-2020, 03:48 PM   #56
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I agree that the heads are cheap to get, but I don't agree that the turbo cars have SS exhaust valves... Come on Ken, you're forgetting things! The original exhaust valves in the turbo heads were sodium filled to help with the transfer of heat out of the valves.
You're right my bad, but as stated the fact remains that a JY head will be less than walking into a machine shop, or buying fancy butt valves.

Like more than lunch for two at the roach coach, but less than dinner for two if purchased on a sale day.

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Old 01-07-2020, 04:23 PM   #57
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give it to a machineshop, let them fill up the holes and machine it down again...
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Old 01-07-2020, 05:39 PM   #58
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You guys are sure good at spending each other's money.
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Old 01-07-2020, 05:46 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
the fact remains that a JY head will be less than walking into a machine shop, or buying fancy butt valves.

Like more than lunch for two at the roach coach, but less than dinner for two if purchased on a sale day.

I do agree!
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Old 01-07-2020, 05:50 PM   #60
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I do agree!


And this is / was TB last I checked.

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Old 01-07-2020, 07:14 PM   #61
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You're right my bad, but as stated the fact remains that a JY head will be less than walking into a machine shop, or buying fancy butt valves.

Like more than lunch for two at the roach coach, but less than dinner for two if purchased on a sale day.

I already bought bigger valves from the group buy Gary was running. I'll probably end up getting another head since they are cheap. If the only difference between the FT and F heads is the valves the cleanest non turbo head I can find will likely be the move
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Old 01-07-2020, 07:31 PM   #62
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Yes, the ports and everything else(aside from the T instead of M camshaft, sodium filled exhaust valves and different exhaust studs) should be the same among 530s, as far as I'm aware.
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Old 01-07-2020, 11:40 PM   #63
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They are the same. I'm currently rocking a freshly refurb'd NA 530 on my wagon, had 1500 miles before it hit the yard (long story, know the shop that worked on it).
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Old 01-08-2020, 05:09 AM   #64
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"New" ft has an external head gasket leak so I guess now is as good a time as ever to learn to port. Gonna cc the chambers before and after getting it surfaced and try to get it pretty similar. I can't/don't want to mess with head gasket thickness yet.
20200107-233150

Good news is the valves didn't take much of a beating. If the port cleanup ends up being good i'll lap them all back in and see about running it.

20200108-004923

Plus this whole endeavor reviled a coolant port the right size for my BMW 2 speed temp sensor, no more switch on the dash for me!

20200107-204243-1

The current head on the FT will likely get a much better and more in depth port and polish plus the new valves eventually, then i'll learn more about squish area and calculating compression ratio.
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Old 01-08-2020, 01:17 PM   #65
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Plus this whole endeavor reviled a coolant port the right size for my BMW 2 speed temp sensor, no more switch on the dash for me!

20200107-204243-1
What are the temperatures that the sensor is set to turn on and off each level at? It might not be ideal, or maybe it will be. It also depends what thermostat you run. Could be a cool find, though!
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Old 01-09-2020, 02:03 AM   #66
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That's the higher temp one, not ideal James. You should look for the white housing one which is a lower temp. The black one I believe is a 92/99.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...8c-61318361787

I've got this one near the bottom of the tank on the 140, seems to be pretty good there.
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Old 01-09-2020, 02:59 PM   #67
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That's the higher temp one, not ideal James. You should look for the white housing one which is a lower temp. The black one I believe is a 92/99.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...8c-61318361787

I've got this one near the bottom of the tank on the 140, seems to be pretty good there.
It may or may not be ok as I assume the back of the cylinder head is higher temp than the radiator will ever see.
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Old 01-09-2020, 04:11 PM   #68
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That's probably just a tstat housing leak. Looks like it.

You can weld the damage to the head and the machine it back down.
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Old 01-09-2020, 11:29 PM   #69
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Agreed Kyle. I think I was seeing around 190-195 back around #4 with a 180* stat.
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