I replaced the battery cable and now no start

I swear, I must be an idiot or something. The 88 wagon I have had a ****ty positive cable, and I got to replacing it today. I pulled the old one, and buttoned up the new one, then noticed the second cable that comes off the terminal wasn?t plugged in all the way. I went to grab it with pliers forgetting the negative was connected as well, and there was a large spark. I removed the negative terminal, pushed the connector in all the way, then reconnected and attempted to start. It cranks all day but won?t start. Not sure where to start as I?m scared I may have fried something. Suggestions please??? My 850r has been leaking a lotta oil lately so the 88 was supposed to be my trooper.

I’m a new account so I guess I can’t post pictures? I touched the metal connectors on the inner fender wall ground strip by the battery. It sparked there.

Check and make sure the coil wire is hooked up on both ends as well as the other wires going to the coil.

They’re all connected well

Not sure if this could cause any fuses to blow, but you did check your fuses, right?

Buy a test lamp.

I checked all my fuses they’re good. Test lamp?? Could you elaborate?

Mstrshkbrnnn said:

The 88 wagon I have

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I'll assume it's the wagon in your profile? That would be a 240 (aka 245). Helps to be specific, so we know exactly what car you're talking about.

The wiring diagrams I have (assuming they're correct) show a big red wire from the battery to the starter, and another red to a "junction box" next to the battery.

From the junction box a red continues to the ignition switch, where it serves the starter and alternator. I'll assume that wire is still okay, as the starter turns. Does the alternator warning light come on with the key in the "on" position?

From that junction box, another red wire goes to the fuse box, where it powers 5 fuses...

#6 - main relay

#7 - brake light switch

#8 - assorted interior lights, clock, antenna, etc

#9 - hazard switch, gear shift indicator

#10 - power windows

Any of those blown?






For you 240 types, there's apparently yet another fuse that powers lots of stuff , that's clipped to the side of the engine bay, where the fender attaches. If it blows, the engine won't start either. Looks something like this:

A test lamp is used to check 12V power circuits. A single strand of wire can pass 12V and a meter will show 12V, but there may not be enough current to operate the component, or illuminate a test lamp.




Don't ever front probe a terminal. I fixed a no crank today because an independent shop stuffed meter leads into terminals and spread them out and couldn't figure out the problem.

Poke both sides of the fuse underhood.

To post images, you need to upload them somewhere else then add the link within the little MountainsAndSun icon. You can also go to imgbb.com, drag your image onto the screen, click upload, then select the "BBCode Thumbnail Linked", click copy, and then paste here. If you ever want to delete the picture, you need to create an imgbb account first.

When you say ground strip by the battery, do you mean the +12v distribution strip with a bunch of red wires going to it, and a black plastic cover?

With key off, I'd check that you have +12v on that distribution strip - use a meter or a test light, one probe wire on battery - post, and one on +12v distribution strip.

ZVOLV said:

Buy a test lamp.

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Yes. At Walmart for a couple dollars. I suggest getting the incandescent one, not the LED one. Look to see your new cable is delivering power to the junction block through the smaller wire, which, in universal replacement cables, may be a "fusible link."