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Old 08-19-2021, 09:15 PM   #1
2turbotoys
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Default Looking at a 142, what to look for

Howdy everyone, I going to go look at a 142 for sale, don't know the year yet. I'm no stranger to the old 240s, but my earliest has been my 78 242. What should I look for that may be a 142 specific issue?

I drove through a car show with my 79 242 and a guy asked if I wanted a 142 to go with it. We only had a couple minutes, during that time I learned the following about it:

Isky cam
Fuel injection head, lightly shaved
Dual Dellorto 40mm carbs (sounds like a lot of carb for that engine, idk)
Manual trans
Floors were replaced a while ago
Car hasn't been run in a few years

Going to call him tomorrow for more info, like what year is it? Haha
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Old 08-19-2021, 09:28 PM   #2
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Rust, location of rust and more rust.
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Old 08-19-2021, 10:05 PM   #3
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I can see now this was a stupid question.
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Old 08-19-2021, 11:22 PM   #4
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Check for rust above rear shock mounts. Design was revised on the 240

Rear quarters
Floors
Rear arches
Windshield corners
Rear C pillar on coupe/sedan, rear quarter windows on wagon

Those are common areas off top of my head, but I think that's gonna be the biggest thing is just get least amount of rust possible

Everything else can be rebuilt on the cheap and VP has a surprising availability of parts
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Old 08-20-2021, 05:14 AM   #5
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Rust at the inner fender @ the hood hinge bases too.
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Old 08-20-2021, 11:31 AM   #6
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Rust, location of rust and more rust.
As should be the priority with any classic car. Everything else is comparatively easy. I used to kind of look at rot and think it wasn't that bad until I was half way through cutting the floors out of an Amazon and wondered why the hell I payed money to need to do that job.
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Old 08-20-2021, 12:24 PM   #7
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- All the spots previously mentioned (rear arches is pretty much guaranteed rust spot)
- Since it is a 142, probe the horizontal seam where the rear 1/4 panel overlays the rocker panel. Great spot for rust to form in that seam.
- Inner fender just behind the headlight buckets
- The portion of the firewall that is exposed at the back of the front wheel wells that gets crap thrown at it from the front tires. It comes from the factory with undercoat which eventually peels and traps moisture.
- Rust in the fuel tank if it has sat for a long time with low fuel level in the tank.
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Old 08-20-2021, 12:30 PM   #8
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My first Volvo was a 142.

When driving the North Cascades Hwy. the car started bucking and barely ran when I got to a certain altitude, but when I got above the pass and started going down again the problem stopped.

Not sure what caused this seemingly enrichment-related issue in this early fuel injected model.

Last edited by Mr. V; 08-21-2021 at 02:07 PM..
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Old 08-20-2021, 12:38 PM   #9
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Take this with a grain of salt from someone who owns one...


You should look to make sure it's not a 1973 - 4.
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Old 08-20-2021, 01:30 PM   #10
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If it's already had the floors done. Then you know you have some rust to deal with. Everyone has pretty much mentioned where you need to check which is everywhere on the car. I'd also give the wiring a good look over as it's so old you may have a lot of wiring to repair. Give the interior a good look as you can sink quite a bit of money into that area making it nice again. Wish you well with the checkout. There are some gems hidden away in the PA countryside.
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Old 08-20-2021, 02:04 PM   #11
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Look in you wallet and bank account. Most of those cars are driven in to the ground and there is very little manufacturer support for the 140 series cars.
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Old 08-20-2021, 07:56 PM   #12
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Thanks guys, some helpful tips above. I looked at the car, in all the places mentioned above it was in great shape! There is a little rust starting in front of the rear wheel arch at the bottom, but I didn't see anything else. The buttcheek areas are solid, not even surface rust starting. The engine turns over but the carbs need a rebuild. The interior is rough, with decent seats. BTW its a 71 or 72, he didn't remember. Trunk has the other seat, extra grill, and other parts in it.

I decided it is not for me though, it wouldn't take a lot to get it on the road, but would be a longer term project to make it a really nice car. If anyone is interested PM me. The owner knows it is not valuable and says "make an offer".

Some crappy pics:











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Old 08-20-2021, 08:33 PM   #13
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Damn, that's like my old car, except in better shape.

Ran when parked? This'll make someone an alright project.

Or a jackstand build.
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Old 08-20-2021, 08:33 PM   #14
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That's some pretty nice upholstery for a car sitting in a field.
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Old 08-20-2021, 08:36 PM   #15
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Ya, it ran when parked. He says it was faster than his 940 T. It's not a field, its the edge of a large stone parking area at an auto shop. It has that singular stand of weeds around it, he probably didn't think I was going to call him at all, much less 12 hours after he gave me his card. I gave him a 5 minute warning I was coming.

This guy has the nicest 940 I have ever seen, it is immaculate. 70k miles and it looks like it has 2k on it.
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Old 08-20-2021, 08:39 PM   #16
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This guy has the nicest 940 I have ever seen, it is immaculate. 70k miles and it looks like it has 2k on it.
Put the B20 in the 940.
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Old 08-20-2021, 08:57 PM   #17
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Looks like a 72.
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Old 08-20-2021, 09:06 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 2turbotoys View Post
Ya, it ran when parked. He says it was faster than his 940 T. It's not a field, its the edge of a large stone parking area at an auto shop. It has that singular stand of weeds around it, he probably didn't think I was going to call him at all, much less 12 hours after he gave me his card. I gave him a 5 minute warning I was coming.

This guy has the nicest 940 I have ever seen, it is immaculate. 70k miles and it looks like it has 2k on it.
140s and other B18/20 cars can definitely feel faster than a stock 7/9 series turbo despite not actually being faster if you look at the numbers. I chock it up to lighter cars, what I consider a nicer torque curve out of modestly hotter cams, and the "slow car fast" effect.

If the rust situation works out I'd go for it. Looks like someone gave it some love at one point and the seats are pretty nice. Overdrive or just a four speed? I think the 72 has a wider tunnel so your transmission options open up a bit without needing sheet metal work.

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Old 08-20-2021, 09:12 PM   #19
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Yes, it’s a 72. It has a short shifter and the flush doorhandles. Those are dead giveaways.
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Old 08-20-2021, 09:17 PM   #20
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He clocked it and it actually was faster. We have the Durea Hillclimb road open to the public most of the year. Not that he went through that many turns to do that, the 142 has the largest wheel gap in the front lol, it needs to come down like 4 inches. It's like the spring is uncoiling and raising the car. I don't know if that's a thing, but it sure looks like it.

But I hear you, my 79 242 feels quick but I know it isn't except when up against another non turbo 240.
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Old 08-20-2021, 09:26 PM   #21
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If you can find a pair of early fenders the wheel opening is smaller.

Look at how much fender there is between the top of the wheel opening and the trim molding on the first car vs. the second one.



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Old 08-20-2021, 09:30 PM   #22
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Interesting, good info for the 140 guys. I know where a pile of NOS fenders are if anyone needs them haha
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Old 08-20-2021, 10:14 PM   #23
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Looks like a good starting point but lots of money to get it road worthy.
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Old 08-20-2021, 10:18 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
Yes, it’s a 72. It has a short shifter and the flush doorhandles. Those are dead giveaways.


The bow tie steering wheel, dash / switches and lower dash panel.
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Old 08-20-2021, 10:32 PM   #25
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Well to get it on the road is a carb rebuild and brake job. Probably flush the gas tank and lines, check out the suspension.. Not really that much work. In PA just register it as an antique and you don't need inspection. The wiring I saw didn't look bad. To make it a really nice car would be a good bit more work.
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