Jimbo's Amazon: 1964.5 220S Project

[stick70]

Badass. The B18/20 engines seem to do exceptionally well sitting for unreasonable periods of time.

[cwdodson88]

Originally Posted by vwbusman66

The real question: can I modify a weber 38/38 downdraft for boost? I'd like to add boost to the car without having to go full EFI conversion for now. MSD makes a box that will retard timing based on boost pressure. J-pipe on stock exhaust manifold with a 13c on top to feed it.

Sure. Just run it suck through with no ic. Should only need a carb adapter>turbo inlet, then an adapter from the turbo to the intake manifold… or a y to an SU manifold.

[JohnMc]

A higher pressure pump and a boost-referenced fuel regulator
A plenum/hat for the DGV
Plumb the boost to the float bowl
Replace the floats (??? I think some versions can collapse under boost)

Really, unless you like the technical challenge of making it work, you'd be far better off getting a D-Jet head and injectors and megasquirting it for boost.

[vwbusman66]

Originally Posted by cwdodson88

Sure. Just run it suck through with no ic. Should only need a carb adapter>turbo inlet, then an adapter from the turbo to the intake manifold… or a y to an SU manifold.

Don't you need a special turbo with carbon seals to do drawthrough?

Originally Posted by JohnMc

A higher pressure pump and a boost-referenced fuel regulator
A plenum/hat for the DGV
Plumb the boost to the float bowl
Replace the floats (??? I think some versions can collapse under boost)

Really, unless you like the technical challenge of making it work, you'd be far better off getting a D-Jet head and injectors and megasquirting it for boost.

The only reason I don't want to do MS initially is just cost. I have no issue converting after a few months if I like the proof of concept.

[cwdodson88]

https://youtu.be/fqzDCkZh7fM
https://youtu.be/rbxjrl1Pqk4
https://youtu.be/Ea0JDwVUSAA

Proof of concept?

I wouldn’t worry about carbon seals with draw through.

[spock345]

Originally Posted by vwbusman66

The real question: can I modify a weber 38/38 downdraft for boost? I'd like to add boost to the car without having to go full EFI conversion for now. MSD makes a box that will retard timing based on boost pressure. J-pipe on stock exhaust manifold with a 13c on top to feed it.

Yep, you can modify the Weber 38 DGS and 32/36 DGV carbs for boost. Although from what I've read the fuel pressure can become an issue. You'll need a boost referenced regulator. Also I've read about problems with the power valve handling the wildly variable pressures and blowing out.

You could also look at doing a blow through with an SU HIF44 or HIF6, the British car enthusiasts have figured out almost every possible way to run an SU with boost.

When I was looking at adding boost to my B20 I was instead thinking the supercharger (Eaton M45/M62 or Aisin SC14) and draw through carburetor route.

[vwbusman66]

Originally Posted by cwdodson88

https://youtu.be/fqzDCkZh7fM
https://youtu.be/rbxjrl1Pqk4
https://youtu.be/Ea0JDwVUSAA

Proof of concept?

I wouldn’t worry about carbon seals with draw through.

Jens' car is phenomenal. I watch those videos monthly for no reason. Yours is equally as excellent.

[cwdodson88]

Jens car is awesome. There are more than a few guys over on Savar Turbo that are running suck through with big turbos. One is running a big 4 barrel and a Holset of some sort, but I cant find it.

Hopefully my engine will get its refresh this winter and be back out. I havent been able to drive the new EFR and air to water IC setup much, but the couple pulls around the block were promising. Redesigning my manifolds was probably not where all the gains were made, but it sounds way different, and pulls earlier leaving me feeling like the torque band is that of a tightly wound NA. Everthing above 2500 hits way harder than the 16t, and getting there from idle is way smoother and less of a shocker, more linear so thats nice. Now I just need to get a few runs in and decide how far to change the gearing. I'm almost thinking that the 4.56 was the right spot, and I just needed a solid 5th instead of dropping to the 3.73.

The jump to MS is really the way to go if youre planning on going any further than 7-10 psi.

[dl242gt]

With the suspension and interior work, trim and lights. That will use up any engine mod money.

[vwbusman66]

Originally Posted by dl242gt

With the suspension and interior work, trim and lights. That will use up any engine mod money.

Fear not. This car will be getting zero interior or trim work besides me bolting a ****ty Recaro seat into it, a new windshield, and probably some weatherstripping.

[JohnMc]

Whistling wind noise from crappy door seals covers up all sorts of rattling!

[cwdodson88]

Originally Posted by JohnMc

Whistling wind noise from crappy door seals covers up all sorts of rattling!

Hood exit will fix that whistling wind.

[Harlard]

E30e30e30e30e30e30e30e30e30

[vwbusman66]

I'll grab pictures tomorrow, but Mountain Meet yielded some useful parts for the car.

MikeJr hooked me up with a set of VP 123GT style wheels with good rubber as well as a pair of pretty nice rear reflector housings and excellent original lenses. Andrew donated the last of his original amazon parts that he wasn't using. This included a pair of semi-usable HIF6's that may be what I use for a blow-through carb setup (using Mini Metro Turbo seals/parts).

[vwbusman66]

double post

[vwbusman66]

Old wheels:


New fronts:

[MikeJr.]

Much better

[vwbusman66]

Originally Posted by MikeJr.

Much better

So good, in fact, that it double posted.

[stick70]

The process of making this car look cool is just gonna be you washing it.

[vwbusman66]

Originally Posted by stick70

The process of making this car look cool is just gonna be you washing it.

You'll notice I took the windshield squeegee at a gas station on the ride home and cleaned one spot on the quarter and it looked way better underneath.

But yeah, the only cosmetic mod I plan I doing is a bath.

[vwbusman66]

Hey!

Big shocker, I didn't do diddly squat on this car since swapping the front wheels onto it. Finals week wrapped up yesterday and I just finally got around to looking at the spreadsheet and figuring out what needs to be ordered to make this happen. I think the tentative plan is to maybe drive this thing to SE 2022.

Hopefully I'll have fun stuff to report back on soon.

[vwbusman66]

Tomorrow may yield a new engine for this pig.

[vwbusman66]

Laid waste to an unsuspecting 97 E300 last Saturday in single digit weather.



Somehow, in all my years of playing with cars, this was the first time I pulled an engine at a junkyard.


I did grab the bellhousing and converter/flex plate as I have no clue what I'm putting this in quite yet or what transmission I'm going to use. I do have a lead on a good $400 e55 722.6 which would probably be the cheapest option for a transmission at present (plus a $700 controller from Denmark).

I'm sitting on an $18 junkyard 3L 603 pump and just need an alternator and belt drive stuff to realistically make this setup work. I need to measure and see if this pig will even come close to fitting without hacking the hell out of the firewall and core support, which I don't want to do considering how straight this car is.

EDIT: Yes I know NA 606's are weak, however at the bare minimum it's good for mockup. I know of a handful of people running unopened 606.912 with 400hp pumps and HX35's without wastegates with solid reliability. I will probably have a **** eating grin on my face around the 200hp mark and plan on closely monitoring EGT's and compensating with water/meth as need be.

[cosbySweater]

Put a laggy turbo on it and a good 7.5 pump and it will be fine but I'll say this. Go with a EDC pump and dsl1 it will be cheaper in the long run and the stock EDC pump will easily get you over the 200hp mark. I would put the mech pump in it and fire it up on the stand. The na heads have a weird issue with sucking valve seats up and thumping out the intake and exhaust even when the lifters are pumped up. The last 2 n/a engines I parted out had valve seat issues and one had a cracked head. If you look up the part number on the head they share the same number as the early turbo heads and due to the year of that one it will already have a MLS headgasket which is nice. If you want me to rebuild the injectors for you let me know I have all the equipment and can bump up the pop pressure to turbo specs for you

[vwbusman66]

Originally Posted by cosbySweater

Put a laggy turbo on it and a good 7.5 pump and it will be fine but I'll say this. Go with a EDC pump and dsl1 it will be cheaper in the long run and the stock EDC pump will easily get you over the 200hp mark. I would put the mech pump in it and fire it up on the stand. The na heads have a weird issue with sucking valve seats up and thumping out the intake and exhaust even when the lifters are pumped up. The last 2 n/a engines I parted out had valve seat issues and one had a cracked head. If you look up the part number on the head they share the same number as the early turbo heads and due to the year of that one it will already have a MLS headgasket which is nice. If you want me to rebuild the injectors for you let me know I have all the equipment and can bump up the pop pressure to turbo specs for you

You're saying that the NA ones drop valve seats or they get recessed into the head more?