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puff the magic wagon build 16v

Once again, it's been a while since I've updated this log so here it goes again.
I disliked how poor my lh2.4 tuning ability was without a ostrich. Having to datalog it going home to time syncing my in car video with the datalogs and then pull the chips and burn a new bins everytime i wanted to adjust cells in the fuel and timimg maps. Figuring megasquirting it it was a smarter long term investment than buying an ostrich, since i would have probably megasquirted it anyways. I ponied up and bought the version 3.0 board and ms2 daughterboard and went to work on breathing the lead fumes. it took a while for me to populate the board but, I gained an understanding of what components make up which circuits on the board and if i fried anything (and I did) and let out the magic smoke that make ICs' and Resistors work it would be easier to source and replace the parts.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14591014047" title="13809 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3878/14591014047_66048b1bb7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="13809"></a>
I got frustrated with all of the extra lh2.4 wiring and loop-dee-loop sh!t with the ezk on the otherside of the car so i also decide to fcuk it and rewire the car
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14781404662" title="13831 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/14781404662_32c557aaef.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="13831"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14778613401" title="13825 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3879/14778613401_7028428165.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13825"></a>
gone is the igintion coil and the around the engine bay wires to the igintion module

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14595040920" title="13832 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3843/14595040920_5ea7bf895c.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13832"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14778607151" title="13830 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3917/14778607151_1e3dd0c192.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13830"></a>
gone is the mess of the low rez batch fire bullsh!t ballasts once again all the way up at the headlights and back.

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14595260617" title="13824 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2937/14595260617_67e246a83f.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13824"></a>
the maf is no longer needed due to an onboard MAP and a MAT in the intercooler tubing

thanks to meeki007s' additions to the dsm cas documentation i mounted my yoshifab high rez disk where the the dissy waz.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14779423134" title="13835 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5553/14779423134_748b97d42f.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13835"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14595145088" title="13834 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2912/14595145088_c6db2c7cc3.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13834"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14801642623" title="13836 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2923/14801642623_2ac1e3d02b.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13836"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14758783496" title="13837 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2903/14758783496_b132ba7547.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13837"></a>
that allowed me to used the toyota 1zzfe cops that i got at the JY earlier.

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14797385453" title="13810 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14797385453_c7c6f6bf33.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="13810"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14797383393" title="13812 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2907/14797383393_b69b0513c8.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13812"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14777523185" title="13811 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5577/14777523185_bd19f7abfc.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13811"></a>
i wish there was/is more proto space in/on the v3.0 board to build extra circuits to utilize all the available outputs and functions that ms2 is capable of doing but i guess "they" want you buy the ms3 if you wanted all the neat stuff.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14775160154" title="13808 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/14775160154_cebb3b65c9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="13808"></a>

Im going to add another db9 connector to the case so that i can add
launch control /flat shift and wiring for WOT switch for a table switching at a later date.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14754506526" title="13082 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2940/14754506526_32f1e15f7d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13082"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14797376333" title="13807 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2923/14797376333_0c9c50b584.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="13807"></a>
I went a little crazy and decide to fuse and relay all of my additions semi independent and mount them in the glove box. Then i came up with the dumb idea that it could hide it all, and still have a glove box that still funcution as a glove box..... well that's about all i can fit in it now; is a small pair of golves.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14595101929" title="13822 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3905/14595101929_1a8b870359.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13822"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14595120658" title="13827 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5584/14595120658_d20f6ce078.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13827"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14779406784" title="13823 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3855/14779406784_0c779d3d5a.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="13823"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14595119738" title="13829 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5595/14595119738_77998efe40.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="13829"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14797365743" title="13814 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3850/14797365743_dac4387460.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="13814"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/14591019697" title="13813 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/14591019697_13b2e21ff8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="13813"></a>
found a bmw aux fan switch dual temperature switch in the junkyard and I bought ebay inline tempertaure adapter and voila idiot proof efan controller failsafe.
the next thing is to reinsure it since it has been living in the garage while I exercised its electrical demons i called jetronic.
 
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it's not a function of people wanting you to buy ms3, you're just using a feature set that wasn't designed into ms2 when it was in the planning phase back in like 2004. So much has changed with MS just in the past ~3 years, and worlds changed between '05 and '10. An Ms2, while quite capable, is not exactly new (and really the ms3 isn't particularly new either, they were just smart about pulling the IO out whereas they left somethings unterminated on the ms2)
 
Dont get me wrong, I really like Ms2 and in hindsight I probably I shouldn't have cheaped out and prung for the Ms3 v3.0 lol. Yet I am suprised that diyautotune.com still stocks and advertises Ms1 v2.2 boards on their site. And I am also aware that most of the extras im trying to cram into ms2 are really backported features that weren't available for ms2 well into ms3 software cycle. What im not a fan of is the movement to smt boards that diyautotune .... I know, i know they are smaller, faster and more features on less board real estate. And understand they are trying to compete with major players . But I feel what could be lost is the ability to build it yourself, mod it to fit odd ball aplications and repair it yourself if someting happens. Also, the community that makes megasquirt so unique the fact that so many cheap bastards think "how hard can it be", would be gone. Moreover, all those special people who build circuits and mod software would also move on. But I'm no expert.
 
So I cleaned up the wiring for the coils






Added on my old homemade strut bar, this need a little tweaking the clearance is little tight. and i need to redo the mounting points of the bar as you can see

15168374257_26efe36875_h.jpg


15168376737_62c90ee2bd_h.jpg
 
Got myself a subframe out of the junkyard and spent some time welding it up hopefully i braced it enough so it doesn't twist and bend and resemble a taco when I try to launch it.
Also I hope my "amateur hour" welding job holds.

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15351710801" title="subframe 1 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3876/15351710801_8b4f4ef321_h.jpg" width="1200" height="1600" alt="subframe 1"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15354899265" title="subframe 3 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3907/15354899265_bf9be544e4_h.jpg" width="1200" height="1600" alt="subframe 3"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15168377737" title="subframe 2 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2950/15168377737_358fe7e50f_h.jpg" width="1200" height="1600" alt="subframe 2"></a>

I'm thinking of swap out the aluminum torque rods and going solid steel ones with heim joints at some point in the future.

the subframe had some rust to begin with and with the the grinding and the new metal. i decided to sandblasted it and sprayed some primer to keep it from rusting since i invested the time to weld it up.

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15354898365" title="subframe 5 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3845/15354898365_ad0430690f_h.jpg" width="1600" height="1200" alt="subframe 5"></a>
 
Been logging some seat time to prefect the ever elusive optimal ve table and spark table in tunerstudio. and i have to look over to the passenger seat or my mount tablet (I know, I know first world problems...) to see my rpms.. so here it goes my tacho output to m2


got me a five finger discount relay form the junkyard. and its even a volvo one
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15168379817" title="tach 2 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2942/15168379817_2e03c7f468_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="tach 2"></a>

popped it open and JB welded a bracket to the metal cover

sourced one of these. harder than you think in the great metropolis of Ottawa:lol:
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15168201310" title="tach transistor by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3858/15168201310_d6f241e4ae_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="tach transistor"></a>

found this on the interwebs
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15177464448" title="Toyota Tacho Negative Coil by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3920/15177464448_df8a3f763c_n.jpg" width="320" height="272" alt="Toyota Tacho Negative Coil"></a>
read Buchka, and grosspolluter posts about the dummy coils and the volvo tachos.
decided that i was going to attach it to the bottom insted of trying to jam everything in the relays' case

took this<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15351722461" title="tach 13 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2945/15351722461_48bcd3d4f1_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="tach 13"></a>
and this
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15168202450" title="tach 10 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3926/15168202450_22c8f5df6e_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="tach 10"></a>

did this
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15331886306" title="tach 12 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3921/15331886306_3a2da773e8_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="tach 12"></a>

solder the resistor to the leg of the transistor and bent it like so
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15351722251" title="tach 14 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/15351722251_b5fc493d18_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="tach 14"></a>

A little more solder and add some flux for because...
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15351721581" title="tach 18 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2947/15351721581_7b5d929117_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="tach 18"></a>

Add some more liquid electrical tape for good measure like this
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15168386807" title="tach 16 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2948/15168386807_7a24fa5e93_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="tach 16"></a>

take dash apart and disconnect this connector (this one has the tach pin in it) ensure by toning it out to the coil on the other side of the firewall
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15351713621" title="tach 7 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2945/15351713621_3b09450b2e_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="tach 7"></a>

And the cheese stands alone, and the cheese stands alone ..... (Pink and White) {sorry my wire toner plays what i think/reminds me of the Farmer in the Dell nursery song}:oops:
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15354583552" title="tach 5 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2942/15354583552_6f2f6e6768_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="tach 5"></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15168194870" title="tach 4 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2944/15168194870_08afe64340_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="tach 4"></a>

cut the wire, pull it back through the fire wall fish it across the dash to close to you 12v+ source and your megasquirt in my case the glove box. connector up the wires to the relay like this (Remember Pink/white is tach out, notice that i use a solid pink wire as tach in from the ms 37db connector to make it easier to fingering this out when its all jammed into my glove box.)
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/65872230@N08/15168388187" title="tach 19 by Puff the magic wagon, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2942/15168388187_7288d83644_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="tach 19"></a>

and there you heigh-ho the derry-ho your stock tach is working now
 
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I sure most of you guys can relate how projects can snowball out of control. And the wonderful use of rationalization : since I'm doing this modification? I misewell, do this one too.
It all started because I wanted a real blow off valve and I was sure the cbv diaphragm was torn on the 15g. (I had 2 other CBV sitting around) .However, a while back I managed to score a couple of dsm ones out of the junkyard (one was crushed and another one was unmolested) the previous owner of the crushed one was worst at welding than me (horribly bad) but, I was able to salvage some of the cold side exhaust pipe and rewelded it so i could fit it in.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/27971548866/in/dateposted-public/" title="20151217_151650_LLSwebb"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7290/27971548866_421809edbd_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="20151217_151650_LLSwebb"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

This led to me to look at prices of exhaust pipe, to use for intercooler piping. Shipping costs are horrible here in Canada. So I started perusing Amazon for deals. I?m Canadian so Amazon.ca isn?t as awesome as the American .com site for selection and most of time the prices?. However, they have free shipping that isn?t on the slow boat from China.
Earlier I plopped in a 15g with a choketastic conical housing in , I?m sure I suffering from a clogged cat, with a super bodge crush bend over axle pipe and with a cherry bomb as the sole muffler with a school bus looking tailpipe. Should I upgrade? Why not?
After searching around I found a nice diagram of all the bends needed. I Could buy all the bends individually and weld it all together like this

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/27392209083/in/dateposted-public/" title="3-inch-cat-back-pipe"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7462/27392209083_35b625c7b9_b.jpg" width="749" height="281" alt="3-inch-cat-back-pipe"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Or, I could try buying a kit like this
Flowmaster 15902 single tailpipe kit 3 inch

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/27971559106/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160527_143153"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7528/27971559106_1b43c17bbd_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="20160527_143153"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/28006162365/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160317_191011"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7073/28006162365_4bf9d9c17b_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="20160317_191011"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Also ordered a Dynomax 4232 U-bend to construct the downpipe

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/27904076582/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160426_192247"><img src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7307/27904076582_f26b50d29a_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="20160426_192247"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/27392982144/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160426_192235"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7286/27392982144_12d8bc9be0_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="20160426_192235"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Did some reading and decide on Dynomax mufflers. Amazon.ca somehow was selling them for ridiculous prices, just my luck.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/27392353803/in/dateposted-public/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7418/27392353803_d9ffacf06a_b.jpg" width="1024" height="606" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/27392212573/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160527_143212"><img src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7415/27392212573_9f26f84ac2_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="20160527_143212"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Figuring that the angle housing was going to be a problem. I removed the manifold so I could get that fourth bolt on and here is the entrance to the rabbit hole.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/27903926452/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160330_130038"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7076/27903926452_2064661771_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="20160330_130038"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Since I wasn?t under a gun, time wise I could paint the manifold, adapter and housing

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/27392850674/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160330_130056"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7481/27392850674_4053e26cb5_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="20160330_130056"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Logically in my mind this was the best time to tackle a major annoyance that i had with the volvo designed oil filter. since almost everything in the way was off the car.

Good riddance.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/27392848284/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160330_130016"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7287/27392848284_c3a0d2a90c_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="20160330_130016"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Hello, more complicated system.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/28006185345/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160413_162611"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7451/28006185345_a6f0d60c2a_b.jpg" width="1014" height="768" alt="20160413_162611"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I ended up getting four port adapter and with a bunch of hydraulic couplers so I could get the oil lines further away from the manifold

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/28006185345/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160413_162611"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7451/28006185345_a6f0d60c2a_b.jpg" width="1014" height="768" alt="20160413_162611"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

A while back I found a 740 turbo in the junkyard and pulled this with the relocation arm and the sandwich plate.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/95142187@N05/27903929092/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160330_130237"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7534/27903929092_e8cceee7bc_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="20160330_130237"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

And after adding up the price of bsp adapter and line and labour at the local hydraulic shop I decide that it would be cheaper to just buy a new oil cooler and AN fittings.

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Ended up on putting the filter and sandwich plate here scrounged some angle steel and made a bracket, then added some nasty beads with the welder for strength.

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Then mounted the cooler here like this, so I would be be able to fit in a new intercooler at a later date.

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At this point I justified the purchase of the yoshifab -10 AN drain for the turbo, since I bought hose and hose ends fittings
Also the was another excuse to redo the lines for the transmission since they were looking crusty, in the way and I was worried that they would collapse or crack while re-bending.

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Since I had everything apart and drained I took this opportunity to go braided, on the feed side of the turbo so I bought a -4An brake line and some -4AN adapters, 14x1.5 metric to -4AN for motor and a 12x1.5 metric to -4AN for the turbo Yaaaay! no more banjo bolts. Once again bought through amazon.
I Pie cut some of the pipe to angle the exhaust so I could use a Vband (little bit of trivia on the vband flange it was invented by Zeppo Marx of the Famous Marx brothers) because the exhaust flange is impossible to remove with the air conditioning piping

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At this point I decide to switch out the loose 15g to a tighter 16t knowing full well that it isn?t an increase in performance other than the 16t won?t be blowing oil and clogging my new cat.
Finally back to the original idea of doing the exhaust
A while back I picked up a Princess Auto (Canada?s version of Harbour Freight Tools) 110volt Mig welder that I can hookup a bottle to it. I haven't got around to getting a bottle of shielding gas, as I just don?t use enough to justify the cost of the bottle rental also, I do all the welding outside?. In the wind ?. So the splatter wire is fine for me. I?m not a pro at welding By any means and I be the first to admit it. Just look at the crappy strut brace welding in prior pictures. As the saying goes a bad carpenter blames his tools

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Made a trip to the local Canadian Tire Store to find some hardware to hang the exhaust ended up buying some mislabel muffler straps for a sunfire for 2.99 each and some steel rod for 6.99 so I think it turned out pretty good only one small problem that I will address further down. Painted it all with BBQ paint in hopes that it wouldn?t turn all **** rust brown too soon and for ?stealth.

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Decide to make a turn down out of the leftover pipe

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Looking back I was using my floor jack to hold up the pipes so I could tack weld the pipes together and I screwed up a little and welded the downpipe bottom piece on a slight angle so this happen

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Over the length of the pipe, the angle increases causing a droopy exhaust in the middle Took off the Cat out in fear of smashing it and put a ?test Pipe? in. Changed the band clamp to a coupler and exhaust pipe ?crushers?

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So I was thinking maybe a flex coupler could help since I did want to put the pipes under stress trying to pull up the droop and maybe use the hanger on the transmission to straighten it out before the cat. I'm still trying to figure this out.
This is the way it came; a little over kill on the packaging.

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Since I was waiting for the flex coupler I decide to redo the ****ty strut tower brace here is it finished

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Your pics for last post are dead. I found a eclipse tach adapter works just fine on stock vovo tach. They are usually attached to dsm coil packs, talons and eclipses.
 
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