7+ years ago, I tore apart a broken DSM CAS and started a thread. I just re-hosted the lost photosuckit pictures, see:
DSM CAS Teardown
I didn't re-read the old thread, so it may not be fully accurate. In general, you should be able to use any physical cam/crank disk alignment you want and adjust the ECU configuration to match. There are a couple caveats:
- if the tooth #1 angle is around 90deg +/- ~20deg, it makes missing tooth detection more robust because the missing teeth are in mid stroke where the cranking speed is fastest and most stable.
- the cam and crank electrical signal edges need to be spaced apart a bit, or MS gets confused. Usually, changing the rising/falling setting on the crank edge fixes this issue.
If you have all the parts already, I'd just try them and see if Haltech is happy and doesn't shift timing as you free-rev it. You could also ask Yoshifab if they have a standard MS setup, and disk orientation, for their head mount DSM CAS.
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MegaSquirt/MicroSquirt are somewhat fussy when using the factory 60-2 wheel and a VR sensor. The DSM CAS is more robust, and provides full sequential without needing to add a custom cam sensor (either on the valve cover, or through the mechanical fuel pump block-off plate, or using a 1-vane LH2.2 disti).