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Haltech tuning

Cam position sensors? What have people used besides the yoshifab unit? I spoke with him and it's becoming apparent that they are 99.9% unobtanium right now.

they are a bit more difficult to come by these days, but not impossible. He does have a number of them ordered but outstanding from what I've gathered talking to Josh recently, which can be aggravating.
 
Cam position sensors? What have people used besides the yoshifab unit? I spoke with him and it's becoming apparent that they are 99.9% unobtanium right now.

lh2.2 distributor is easy enough to make work. You could probably fabricoble a newer hall sensor into it as well if needed.
 
What are the basic settings for fuel, ignition timing etc? I'm searching around. I'm onto the engine side of things and then it will be ready for a test fire. Interior is now done. Pics soon
 
So just for reference, anyone who still follows this thread. I was able to find that on the 60-2 trigger wheel of the flex plate/ fly wheel that the missing teeth are 86 degrees before top dead center, i then went and checked this out with my own eyes and it is definitely accurate as it looked to my eyes as just slightly less than 90 degrees from the 0 mark.

cheers!
 
Found this helpful, https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=350611 however it is for a block mounted dizzy. I'm still setting this up and any feedback would be great. It appears the block dizzy spins cw and the head mounted unit face on will spin ccw. This was deceiving at first but, with that known and going on the assumption that the photo pickups are in line with one another (guessing/ i hope) that the cam trigger would be just out of the opposite side. To align it the other way is not possible with the yoshifab setup.

Pics to come later.

Question, is this Cam/Crank signal better than using the 60-2 Crank and the cam only signal from the CAS?
 
7+ years ago, I tore apart a broken DSM CAS and started a thread. I just re-hosted the lost photosuckit pictures, see: DSM CAS Teardown

I didn't re-read the old thread, so it may not be fully accurate. In general, you should be able to use any physical cam/crank disk alignment you want and adjust the ECU configuration to match. There are a couple caveats:
- if the tooth #1 angle is around 90deg +/- ~20deg, it makes missing tooth detection more robust because the missing teeth are in mid stroke where the cranking speed is fastest and most stable.
- the cam and crank electrical signal edges need to be spaced apart a bit, or MS gets confused. Usually, changing the rising/falling setting on the crank edge fixes this issue.

If you have all the parts already, I'd just try them and see if Haltech is happy and doesn't shift timing as you free-rev it. You could also ask Yoshifab if they have a standard MS setup, and disk orientation, for their head mount DSM CAS.
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MegaSquirt/MicroSquirt are somewhat fussy when using the factory 60-2 wheel and a VR sensor. The DSM CAS is more robust, and provides full sequential without needing to add a custom cam sensor (either on the valve cover, or through the mechanical fuel pump block-off plate, or using a 1-vane LH2.2 disti).
 
Got the old girl to sputter tonight. Messing with the cam and crank sensor. Tomorow will be to go fully assed with the CAS from Yoshifab, it provides a super clean signal. Just need to jump a wire at the ecu.

Here's some pics

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CAS works great but i'm having issues getting spark when cranking it.... Such a learning curve this is. If i had consistent spark, i could adjust the base timing and test fire this thing. So close yet so far away.
 
Problem solved with much better results. After a major moment of dyslexia, the car now runs. I had typed in that the CAS wheel was 42 teeth when it is in fact 24 teeth. Due to that bone headed move and having the timing set at 10 instead of -10 it would not come close to starting and the sync errors tab was burried way down out of sight. When Haltech says to unplug your ignition before rebooting, DO IT!!!! I had a bunch of pops in the exhaust which were no biggie. Then the A/F ratio reached the right mix, my ears were ringing for an hour. Luckily that's all that happened.

Took a few blips of the throttle for the wideband to dial in the idle for me. I did translate some of the maps from MAXXECU, perhaps that helped some bit. On to assembling more of the car now that it runs. WOOOOOOOOO!!!
 
Not sure where it's at yet but i have it idling nicely at 800 ish RPM, 3" throttle body, Elite 1000 with wideband self tuning turned on. Safe to say if anyone needs help with Haltech Elite and NSP software, i'm certainly understanding it more by the day.
 
Can't you just use a single trigger to synchronize the cam? What if you use a normal distributor as the sensor? Ground the center terminal, then use one of the four outer terminals as a trigger signal. Use a pullup resistor on the signal line and every time the distributor rotor hits that terminal, the signal goes to zero.
 
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