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Cheapskate LS manifold options

Broke4speed

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Location
Marionville, Ontario, Canada
I'm getting closer to having all the parts I need for a 'one-day' install and I've begun to think about manifolds. Given that I'm using a 4.8 and a T5, I don't particularly expect to have more than 250whp/260tq, would I run into any issues with doing a crossover pipe for the driver's side and blending that into the piping on the passenger side? I can't really find much info on using an unequal length pipe setup on a V8. I know some old Fords from the 60s did it, but would I be leaving much on the table, power-wise?

Could I even use the factory exhaust manifold on the pass side? I'd really like to not have to purchase something if there's a way around needing it...even if it's not a great solution.
 
I haven't researched it at all, but this for sale ad lists using one Camaro manifold and one CTS-V manifold. Might be a lower cost option for you.

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Also, the STS guys did an exhaust setup similar to what you are describing:
40434547100_3af96c3059_b.jpg

Build thread: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=354287
 
The camaro ss manifold is something I'm definitely going to look into now :).
I mean...I COULD pay for stuff, I just don't want to, lol.

Thanks for the info and pic! It's good to know the unequal length idea isn't uncommon. Mine would just be in front of the engine, like a single-turbo setup.
 
Dangit! The seller may not ship to Canada (ebay.com) and any of the clone manifolds I can find on ebay.ca are $300+ CAD plus $50-150 shipping from the USA :(.

I know Summit sells a version of those too, maybe I'll look into that too.

Being in Canada really bites for options. Even the F-body manifolds on ebay are expensive, ugh.
 
I ended up going with the usual clone cast manifolds, purchased from Summit Racing for under $200 USD. They arrived yesterday and come complete with flanges for downpipes and all the hardware :).
 
Thanks for doing this cheap LS swap. I'm probably going to swap this clean 242 shell I've got with an LS to re sell. So I'm following along!
 
Glad to help, lol.
I'm gonna say though...the sheer amount of nickel and dime parts is killing my budget, ugh. If I was going automatic, it would be a LOT cheaper.

Noted. Going auto. Lol. This will be a purely build to sell to a farmer type of project.

Jordan
 
UPDATE:
The Summit clone manifolds fit great, but for those of us with a ZF rack...that steering shaft is going to be reaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaally close. I flap-wheeled a bit of clearance, but I may have some of the flange milled down to increase space. I'll wait to see if it hits while moving.
 
I've got the STS solid shaft. I'm currently not using the spacers in the crossmember, so it might get a wee bit closer if I have to put them in. I think I could tweak the engine position a bit more if I have to, but I'm not up to 100% snuff yet, so I left it at 'close, but not touching'.
 
Any pics of your build? I'm planning on putting a 4.8l LR4 into my 740. One of the things I'm pondering are ancillary layouts - curious to see what others have done in this regard.
 
I've got the STS solid shaft. I'm currently not using the spacers in the crossmember, so it might get a wee bit closer if I have to put them in. I think I could tweak the engine position a bit more if I have to, but I'm not up to 100% snuff yet, so I left it at 'close, but not touching'.

Yeah, you'd probably want to avoid having it hit the shaft. :)

My manifolds go forward for turbo purposes, so I never had to try to fit an exhaust in on the steering side.
 
If it hits, I'm definitely getting a bit shaved off the flange and flap-wheeling a bit more clearance. If i have at least 1/8 of an inch I should be good. The STS mounts are a soft poly, so there's not much deflection.
 
Jared was having the engine/manifold lean over in corners and sort of mildly bind up the steering shaft. Which is not a good sensation, I'd imagine.

I did have fun fitting a decently sized downpipe on the passenger side, where it's right next to the starter. I ended up using 3.5" oval pipe and bends, transitioning back to 3" by the trans. After the first decent length drive the starter wouldn't work until it cooled down, I had to make a metal heat shield for it (the DP was heat wrapped, FWIW).
 
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