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240 ATF change on a 1986

atikovi

Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Location
Suburban Washington DC
1) Does it have a filter to replace or a metal screen that can be cleaned?

2) Any reason not to use RTV instead of a physical pan gasket?

3) Can you use Dexron VI instead of Dexron IId mentioned in the manual?

4) Is there a drain plug on the converter?

5) How many quarts after a drain?
 
Metal screen. I wouldn't try sealing that pan with RTV. You can use the later Dexron ATF. No drain plug on the converter. Start with 2.5 quarts and keep measuring the level while adding fluid with the engine running and the transmission in park.
 
Why? I just went through replacing the starter, and believe you me, I don't want to mess with those bolts ever again, especially the inner one.

First, if you live where the roads are salted/deicer applied, the nut that holds the tube in place will be seized to the threaded bung on the pan. You will never get it off without stripping the threads. Second, if you do get it off without destroying the threads or ripping the bung right out of the pan, there is very little chance you will ever get the tube to reseal to the pan. It's just how they are no matter what anyone else tells you. Just save yourself buying a replacement pan and having it shipping, tube and all and take the starter bolts out. Or, you can hack it TB style and cut the tube 2-3" above the 90 degree bend and use a piece of flex tubing and hose clamps to cover the cut when you replace the pan. At least that will reseal.
 
Is the tube mounted to BOTH starter bolts? I don't remember but only see one here.

Starter2.JPG
 
Dexron III is cheaper and fine to use.

Metal Screen.

Pan gasket is better.

Drain it, fill it, then tun it through ALL the positions (R, 1, 2, D) and then drain it and refill it. This runs fluid through all the nooks and crannies and when the fluid coming out is the same color as it is going it you're fine.
 
IPD sells a really handy hose that screws on to the cooler on the radiator for doing a flush since you'll never be able to drain the converter entirely, only about 4 quarts will come out of the pan. Anything compatible with Dexron III will work, I like Mobil multi-vehicle synthetic atf, my transmission shifts better with it, but I've also used dirt cheap conventional stuff. Recommended service intervals are 20k miles shocking enough. Do not use silicone between the pan gasket and transmission. I like silicone between the pan and an OE Volvo gasket, and then lithium grease between the gasket and transmission, that was a tip I got from Kjets On a Plane. No leaks on my AW anymore. The filter is also not a very fine screen in the realm of modern automatic transmissions. If you don't know if it's ever been done then go ahead, but I wouldn't say it's recommended to touch every time you do a fluid change.
 
whatever you do... please follow this advise :nod:

I remember removing the dipstick tube when I did the fluid on my AW70 years ago. I guess I won the lottery there. Although then I tried to do the accumulator mod with the gearbox in the car. Bathing in transmission fluid isn't fun. Neither is trying to reattach the kickdown cable down there. So I guess I paid for it in a different way.
 
Well I got the starter bolts out and the pan bolts off but there is no way it's coming down together. Either the bracket on the tube hits something in the way or the pan does, but it wont come out.
 
You might have to remove the transmission cross member bolts from the frame and tilt the engine/transmission down in order to get enough clearance. Just use your floor jack on the trans cross member to lower it. I know it will come out. A customer of mine who is mechanically challenged just changed the trans pan on his 244 Turbo because it had no drain plug and he wanted to be able to service the trans more easily at the 30,000 mile interval.
 
Oh heck no! Unbolt and lower the transmission? Just for a fluid change. I don't think so. Got the pan back on, tightened all their bolts, then set up two bottle jacks. One to counter hold the 30 mm fitting on the pan and an other to loosen the 24 mm tube. Broke it free in 5 seconds.

Volvo_240_trans_pan_tube_removal.jpg
 
Tilt it, not remove it. 5 minute task tops. It also makes it easy to get at the starter bolts in case you have to replace a starter in the future. If you are successful at getting the tube to reseal, run out and buy a mega millions lottery ticket. You will be in the 10 percentile that?s done so.
 
If the nut that holds the tube in place is seized, what makes you think the crossmember bolts wouldn't be seized as well? Snap those off and you're screwed.

They aren't a fine pitch thread and are caked in undercoat which helps to seal them off from the road spray. The pan tube is a fine pitch thread that is almost an interference fit thread and is unprotected from the elements. Maybe, you'll get lucky.
 
Tilt it, not remove it. 5 minute task tops. It also makes it easy to get at the starter bolts in case you have to replace a starter in the future. If you are successful at getting the tube to reseal, run out and buy a mega millions lottery ticket. You will be in the 10 percentile that?s done so.

I do this on a regular basis. There's nothing to it. If the nut loosens, you're good. The rusty ones never budge. I've never had one have a problem to seal up. Some luck involved but not enough to win you the lottery.
 
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