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Wanting to use a 240 chassis for a drag build

T.J.T

New member
Joined
Oct 4, 2021
Location
Calgary Canada
I made this post on a Volvo facebook page and felt it was easier to copy and past the same question here as they said this site has had a few drag builds done on it. Ill see if I can dig up the build threads but here is my plan for now.

Does anyone want to chat about using a 240 (242 or 244) as a drag chassis? I know there are cheaper and proven build options out there but I like the body style of these cars, weight and wheel base for certain reasons. The plan is putting a 8.5 cage in the car start with a 5.3 single turbo, th400, probably 8.8(though 9 inch not out of the question) solid rear end full stand alone ecu. The car will be built for drag week type events and mostly 1/8th mile racing.

I've done reading on making the 8.8 fit, unsure if a 9" rear end would work. I know there are ls swap kits and I'll run the hooker headers turbo kit as I've helped build a car using that kit and it's simple and cheap and we made 1100 wheel backing up a 78mm turbo. I'm unsure how much work a th400 will take to fit into the car, obviously I won't be against using persuasion tools to message the tunnel if needed.
Then I'm getting hung up on a 2 door (242) or 4 door (244). Still it's a little unclear if both the 242 and 244 are the same as the 240 and volvo just dropped the unique model numbers.

I've found some decent candidates 4 door cars in the "nova scotia" blue (unsure if that's the legit name) but after checking for a few months it doesn't appear the 2 doors come up too often.

So if anyone has a 2 door that would part with �� or has any experience with this chassis and type of build I'd love to hear some input.

Thank you
 
2 doors are rare now so if you can find a nice sedan, get it. The th400 will fit.

Thanks! I have 2 very clean (frame) 4 doors I am looking at, the body is straight with both but some typical paint wear that I am more then happy to live with. The only difficult decision is one is 10 hours away the other is 30 hours away so it makes that final decision a little more difficult. These cars seem to endure the test of time on the undersides quite well from what ive seen.
 

Yes sir. saw that wagon. I actually have a wagon myself that runs 9s that weights 4600lbs... LOL

Something about the 2 door body style (even 4 door) that I think will look deadly with a drag wing and chute hanging off the back. I have wrestled with getting a similar wagon to my Cadillac but its been done (you posted it) so im looking to do my own thing ( though I am sure 2 or 4 doors have also been drag raced)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vh1t6x9hny9jke0/120044068_3466941030023358_1686215352513173619_o.jpg?dl=0

I cant seem to post a picture on this forum even with the link option :-(
 
Yes sir. saw that wagon. I actually have a wagon myself that runs 9s that weights 4600lbs... LOL

Something about the 2 door body style (even 4 door) that I think will look deadly with a drag wing and chute hanging off the back. I have wrestled with getting a similar wagon to my Cadillac but its been done (you posted it) so im looking to do my own thing ( though I am sure 2 or 4 doors have also been drag raced)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vh1t6x9hny9jke0/120044068_3466941030023358_1686215352513173619_o.jpg?dl=0

I cant seem to post a picture on this forum even with the link option :-(

Update your sig with location, etc., as that will impact who may be able to help. Assuming you are in the US, you don't want any East Coast 240 series, they will be very rusty. 242 was discontinued in 1984, 244, 245 in '93.
 
Fastest Volvo

1885.jpg


1912.jpg


1887.jpg
 
Update your sig with location, etc., as that will impact who may be able to help. Assuming you are in the US, you don't want any East Coast 240 series, they will be very rusty. 242 was discontinued in 1984, 244, 245 in '93.

Thank you I will do that. I am up in Calgary canada, west coast (ish). Obviously with the border stuff right now it makes shopping the us market quite difficult. Ive found one 2 door 12 hours away but the guy wants 3x the money than a 4 door, and another 2 door that looks rough but trying to get more details as its really close to me.
 
Im up in Edmonton. I just sold a really clean 242 shell without a sunroof. Too bad.

I have two 242GTs in Kamloops. The one is restorable to a nice GT, but the other isn't worth saving as a GT. It's pretty rusty.
I have a couple 244s (4 doors) and a couple 245s (wagon). They're all at my dad's place in Kamloops.

242s are getting hard to find these days. I shouldn't have sold that one I did late this summer. I could have used two clean 242 shells.
 
If you have the budget, go for a Ford 9" housing. You can get them in almost any width with axles and bearings for ~$650usd. Toss in a $600 center section, and a $250-2k brake kit.

The 8.8 is fine for most, but it needs work and upgrades (mostly swapping to 9in "big" ford axle ends, the c-clip eliminator kits are all garbage)
 
If you have the budget, go for a Ford 9" housing. You can get them in almost any width with axles and bearings for ~$650usd. Toss in a $600 center section, and a $250-2k brake kit.

The 8.8 is fine for most, but it needs work and upgrades (mostly swapping to 9in "big" ford axle ends, the c-clip eliminator kits are all garbage)

Isn't the 9" stuff really heavy and thirsty? Ive heard the way the gears are setup that it takes up some extra power
 
If you have the budget, go for a Ford 9" housing. You can get them in almost any width with axles and bearings for ~$650usd. Toss in a $600 center section, and a $250-2k brake kit.

The 8.8 is fine for most, but it needs work and upgrades (mostly swapping to 9in "big" ford axle ends, the c-clip eliminator kits are all garbage)

Disk brakes are your c-clip eliminators :oogle:
 
Isn't the 9" stuff really heavy and thirsty? Ive heard the way the gears are setup that it takes up some extra power

Yes. They are higher drag. That's also the reason they can take way more power and survive than an 8.8 can. You also have the ability to do gear changes in about 1.5 hours by having more than one third member on hand. For a high HP drag car, I'd go with a 9".
 
Isn't the 9" stuff really heavy and thirsty? Ive heard the way the gears are setup that it takes up some extra power

You can make a 9? significantly lighter than a 8.8 for not a lot of extra money. Because the pinion sits really low on the 9? it does create excess drag, but there are better gear designs and surface treatments that help.
I know of a NA Toyota starlet (1.6L) that uses a 9? and you couldn?t tell a difference between the old Toyota diff. The 9? also weighs about 165lbs with brakes and all brackets :e-shrug:
Mother prices of used 8.8s have gotten out of hand, and you can build a new 9? for just a few hundred more.

Disk brakes are your c-clip eliminators :oogle:

Your sliding calipers would lead me to think otherwise :lol:
 
What is the typical weight of other axles for comparison sake?

1030 with brakes is 135#

IFS (58" width) Toyota 8" with 4cyl 3rd member and Wilwood brakes is 140#
V6 3rd member is probably another 10-20lbs

8.8 is 185# iirc

These are all from memory, but I'll dig through my notes and see what they measured out at.
 
Awsome. With that information I will probably look into a 9 inch then. I'm still on the search for a good shell to use. I don't mind taking a running car apart and parting out all the stock stuff off it either. I do enjoy taking things apart and learning more about them.
 
From a Ford forum:
FORD REAR END WEIGHT COMPARISON

8.8-inch Rear End Assembly Weight : 170 lbs.

1. Housing: 36 lbs.

2. Axles: Medium Journal, 28-spline -15 lbs. ea.

3. Brakes: Small 10" x 1?" Drum Assemblies - 22 lbs. ea.

4. 3rd Member: Reinforced Revision 8.8-inch Case - 60 lbs.




9-inch Rear End Assembly Weight: 194 lbs.

1. Housing: 38 lbs.

2. Axles: Large Journal, 28-spline - 18 Lbs. ea.

3. Brakes: Massive 11-1/32 x 2?" Drum Assemblies - 26 lbs. ea.

4. 3rd Member: Conventional Diff. - 68 lbs.
a. w/Traction-Lok Diff. - 71 lbs.

(24 lbs. Difference Between Drum Brake 8" & Drum Brake 9" Rear End Assembly).
 
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