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EV turbobrick - the turbobrick way?

It is probably the same style motor as in the civic hybrid (mostly CVTs) and whatever hybrid Kahlua had with a stickshift. CRX?
We have a Civic hybrid at school, I haven't run it in a long time.
 
I've always been intrigued by the early GM 2ML70. It uses a standard GM bellhousing and flexplate, which adapters are widely available for redblocks. About the form factor of a 4L80E, and as far as I know the mechanical transmission controls are the same as a 4L60e. So mounting and controlling the mechanicals is pretty trivial as that's all documented. At that point supplying power and controlling the electric motor drive would be the big part of the project. I don't know anything about the electric motor part, specs, power, etc, but from a TB perspective it would likely be the least amount of work and cost to make work in a redblock application.

Edit: Brief research shows most models as an internally controlled unit with CAN bus commands from the PCM, similar to the 6L80E control strategy. So that may be a bit more difficult to control. I could have sworn I've seen some earlier units where a different bellhousing was used on either a 4L80E or 4L60E where the bellhousing was the stator winding and a special torque converter was used that also acted as the rotor. Basically the torque converter was also the electric motor. I'll have to see if I can dig that up. Maybe it was never a thing and I'm just trippin'.
 
I think that you might be on to something. I remember seeing something from gm that had either a motor operated 1st or motor assisted input. Definitely not something I’ve had open on my bench, but somewheres out there something like that was brought up.

The interesting part of that vq build was at one point, they had been playing with vvti control to pull dynamic compression to near zero for the first 1800 rpm, and that thing was still stupid powerful from 0. Since then there’s been some changes, but that setup has the ability to roll out a functional stop start. So net mpgs are up and the emotor is doing most of the work until the 4-5k mark when the ice actually develops decent power. It’s definitely an interesting setup, and they have a very reliable control strategy.
 
Found a little more info. Came on 2004-2006 Silverado's, so this was pre 2ML70 era. It used the standard LM7 5.3 engine and a 4L60E. The only difference was the flexplate and bellhousing. The flexplate was the rotor assembly and also used the motor for starting the engine, so no ring gear or traditional starter motor. The torque converter fit inside the rotor assembly. The bellhousing was the stator windings. The transmission was just a run-of-the-mill 4L60e. It was only a 42 volt system, so likely won't produce significant power levels.

I can't really seem to find stuff on ebay for these anymore. Almost a decade ago when I was fitting a 4L80E to the 2JZ this stuff was all over the place. Either way, for cheap and dirty this arrangement could be fitted to a redblock with off the shelf GM adapter components, controlled with an off the shelf microsquirt 4l60e controller and the motor controls are up to the user.

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Found a little more info. Came on 2004-2006 Silverado's, so this was pre 2ML70 era. It used the standard LM7 5.3 engine and a 4L60E. The only difference was the flexplate and bellhousing. The flexplate was the rotor assembly and also used the motor for starting the engine, so no ring gear or traditional starter motor. The torque converter fit inside the rotor assembly. The bellhousing was the stator windings. The transmission was just a run-of-the-mill 4L60e. It was only a 42 volt system, so likely won't produce significant power levels.

I can't really seem to find stuff on ebay for these anymore. Almost a decade ago when I was fitting a 4L80E to the 2JZ this stuff was all over the place. Either way, for cheap and dirty this arrangement could be fitted to a redblock with off the shelf GM adapter components, controlled with an off the shelf microsquirt 4l60e controller and the motor controls are up to the user.

2012-06-22_212549_stator.gif


page_16.jpg

I knew I had seen that somewhere? looks like something in this general idea could pack a pretty good punch. These 42-48v systems can be used with higher voltages and current levels if you can keep them cool, and have a controller that you can tune your field weakening. The stator design looks like very much like a Remy hairpin wound design. And I wouldn?t expect them to not design it to deal with hv and pretty crazy current handling. I get to work with this sort of stuff a lot, not nearly as much as some of the guys in our power electronics, but dialing in new control strategy and firmware is something that I spend a bit of time with.
 
Pretty wild. I had not seen that. I used to frequent a site called economodder or something like that, but they were not e-friendly.

I?ve found the hypermiling community to be?. Different?

They are like card gaming nerds arguing over the most minute details. There isn?t an ounce of humor in any of them.
 
Now I'm torn between buying a used Spark EV for 11k out the door, and buying as much motor and controller and batteries as I can get for that, and installing it in a Volvo.
 
Now I'm torn between buying a used Spark EV for 11k out the door, and buying as much motor and controller and batteries as I can get for that, and installing it in a Volvo.

Buy the Spark, and then immediately install a 15g and cut the springs.
 
Noob question: all the J1772 cables for home have some sort of device in the cable that has a readout, the J plug, and a male 3-prong plus ground.
Can it be a cable made with a J plug and whatever I have handy at home? Will i be doing a smoke test?
 
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