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240 Stubborn Gland Nut (Front Strut)

VolvoScout

Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2012
Location
Upstate, NY
The top portion of my gland nut (IPD Aftermarket) ripped off...
Any tips on how I can remove it, or do I have to bring the entire strut assembly to a machine shop?

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Large pipe wrench and a good vice, alternatively a air hammer with a chisel bit. Use some heat as well to expand the housing and get the corrosion to loosen up a bit.
Make sure to grease up the strut housing and the threads when you reinstall everything.
 
The gland nut is nearly flush (just a tad exposed) with the strut housing.
The top is gone, so there is nothing to effectively grip.
Applied loctite to gland nut when installed this past winter because it kept coming loose and unseating itself.
 
Ahh, you're going to want to use an air hammer with a chisel tip.
Or weld a big nut onto it (slide the nut over the strut rod, mig weld the hex nut to the gland).
 
weld a huge nut on top of it. My sons car was really bad and that was the only way I could get a grip on it and used a 4ft long cheater bar. Be prepared to look for another assembly, the thread are probably to far gone. When you weld do it in tacks then cool it over and over. You dont want the strut fluid to start boiling. LOL
 
What's the chance that using an air hammer with a chisel tip might just make it more difficult to remove if initially unsuccessful?

I can't weld, so if that's the only other option, I'll have to take it to a shop.
Destroying the strut cartridge to save the housing is a fine with me.
 
You *might* be able to drill holes in what remains of the gland nut to use an OTC brand gland nut tool. Look it up, you'll see what I mean. Don't drill into the strut, you'll be disappointed with the result.
 
Drift It Around

You *might* be able to drill holes in what remains of the gland nut to use an OTC brand gland nut tool. Look it up, you'll see what I mean. Don't drill into the strut, you'll be disappointed with the result.

:nod:

Or warm it up to break the locktite's grip and tap on the holes with a helper using 2 center punches striking at as much of an angle as you can simultaneously 1-2-3, tap - tap / strike while you call it out until it moves.
 
Pull the strut out, hammer all around the strut where the nut is to break up the rust, if you have to weld a bar to the nut to turn it
 
Never use loctite on the gland nut. Use anti seize paste on it. Also it's a good idea not to overtighten the gland nut because the cheaply welded on hex part of the nut can rip off just as has happened. I would try the hammer and punch method. It works pretty good. Although the suggested welding method is probably going to get you much more twisting force on that seized gland nut. Wish you well with it.
 
I removed the gland nut!
I picked up a map/pro torch and heated the nut for a few minutes; drilled two holes into the nut and used a ratchet and the MTC tool.
Many thanks for the advice, the car is now back on the road! :-)
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Heat, propane torch should be enough, is a good way to break the loctite bond. I think 300F will get you there unless you used high temp loctite.
 
The top portion of my gland nut (IPD Aftermarket) ripped off...
Any tips on how I can remove it, or do I have to bring the entire strut assembly to a machine shop?

Fav9Rmz.png
[/IMG]

Gland nut looks bizarre in that image. I had a similar problem and unfortunately had no choice but to leave the gland nuts in place, and continue with the then mildly seized Bilz HD's. Interesting reading your thread, glad you got it.

:-P
 
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