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Old 05-26-2021, 10:59 AM   #276
cwdodson88
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They look great! I would be a little concerned with taking material off the wheel at the pin drive thickness, but I guess you'd just need to be sure that there's enough threads on the adapters and nuts to allow it. Might have to turn down the adapters the same amount as you take off the wheel.

I had a guy ask me to swap some knock off wheels on an Austin Healey because he wanted the offset of some Borrani wire wheels. Turns out that the spline was right, but thickness at the bore was less, and his nuts bottomed out before squeezing the wheels into place. Ended up chucking a spare set of hub adapters in the lathe and taking off 6mm to get decent center lock engagement.

Maybe an EPAS and steering rack would solve steering feel, and bumpsteer stresses, but that seems like a more difficult task than milling the wheel to correct offset issues.

That said, I'm running a 17x9.5 et:+5 and with camber set a little more negative, and caster at -6.5* ish, it self centers well, and is pretty easy to handle at speed with minimal wandering/bump steer. At least with the stock steering wheel, but with the little 13.5" grant that I have on there, its a little harder on the forearms than I'd like, but it is doable.
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Old 05-26-2021, 12:53 PM   #277
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
They look great! I would be a little concerned with taking material off the wheel at the pin drive thickness, but I guess you'd just need to be sure that there's enough threads on the adapters and nuts to allow it. Might have to turn down the adapters the same amount as you take off the wheel.

I had a guy ask me to swap some knock off wheels on an Austin Healey because he wanted the offset of some Borrani wire wheels. Turns out that the spline was right, but thickness at the bore was less, and his nuts bottomed out before squeezing the wheels into place. Ended up chucking a spare set of hub adapters in the lathe and taking off 6mm to get decent center lock engagement.

Maybe an EPAS and steering rack would solve steering feel, and bumpsteer stresses, but that seems like a more difficult task than milling the wheel to correct offset issues.

That said, I'm running a 17x9.5 et:+5 and with camber set a little more negative, and caster at -6.5* ish, it self centers well, and is pretty easy to handle at speed with minimal wandering/bump steer. At least with the stock steering wheel, but with the little 13.5" grant that I have on there, its a little harder on the forearms than I'd like, but it is doable.
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I've taken a million measurements and spoken directly with the manufacturer. These wheels are designed for a variety of reproduction car applications so they purposefully designed the mounting pads on the thick side to be machined up to 1/2 inch depending on application.

In my opinion anything wider then 7 inches, especially at the front of the car, is excessive without complete steering and suspension geometry redesign. At 7.5 inches I'm really pushing the balance of looks over performance which is not my motivation. Go drive your favorite road, take off your 9.5 wheels and bolt on a set of even 6 inch wheels and you'll probably ask yourself if you really want to bolt the old set back on. The idea here is to stay as far inside the fenders as possible to retain proper handling characteristics, you really start changing vehicle dynamics by changing a number of alignment planes and adding leverage to both springs and wheel bearings the further past center (0 offset) you go.

The new brake disc and brake drum toolings from VP are much stronger and in my opinion can also take up to 5-8mm off the hats by milling due to their one piece design over the old two piece pressed hubs which was another way to attack the issue as well.
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Old 05-28-2021, 05:33 PM   #278
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Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I've taken a million measurements and spoken directly with the manufacturer. These wheels are designed for a variety of reproduction car applications so they purposefully designed the mounting pads on the thick side to be machined up to 1/2 inch depending on application.

In my opinion anything wider then 7 inches, especially at the front of the car, is excessive without complete steering and suspension geometry redesign. At 7.5 inches I'm really pushing the balance of looks over performance which is not my motivation. Go drive your favorite road, take off your 9.5 wheels and bolt on a set of even 6 inch wheels and you'll probably ask yourself if you really want to bolt the old set back on. The idea here is to stay as far inside the fenders as possible to retain proper handling characteristics, you really start changing vehicle dynamics by changing a number of alignment planes and adding leverage to both springs and wheel bearings the further past center (0 offset) you go.

The new brake disc and brake drum toolings from VP are much stronger and in my opinion can also take up to 5-8mm off the hats by milling due to their one piece design over the old two piece pressed hubs which was another way to attack the issue as well.
I dont disagree at all. My setup is way too wide for anything but looks, when I intend to drive it hard, I've got a set of 15x7.5 et25 with a nice 225x55 R compound tire, but its still heavy on the autocross course, and a little too many turns lock>lock. Winter is coming soon, so the car will be back in the garage for some new things. Most likely to include some weight and structure changes up front. Plus, I just found myself a nice prius carcass to dismember and sweet quick ratio rack.
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Old 06-08-2021, 11:54 AM   #279
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More fitting and measuring. This is definitely not a straight forward bolt on, pretty much fighting me every step of the way. Hope it looks as good as I envisioned it when it's all done.

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Old 06-08-2021, 09:50 PM   #280
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Oh my word! Are you going to come to the Slorolling drive on the 26th? If so, will you be sporting these?
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Old 06-08-2021, 11:17 PM   #281
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Oh my word! Are you going to come to the Slorolling drive on the 26th? If so, will you be sporting these?
Unfortunately, most likely no on both accounts. I'm waiting for a second pair of matching wheels to arrive next week. Once I have those all four need to go to my machinist to have the offset corrected. After that I'm considering having them fully powder coated.

I have a family trip planned for Monterey that day. Even if I could come my gold steel wheels wont balance and are awful on the freeway.
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Old 07-22-2021, 01:35 PM   #282
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Finally mounted up. Boy that was a process! These are definitely not direct bolt on items. I doubt anyone will try to follow in my footsteps due to the modification and cost. Overall I'm happy with the new arrangement but I will continue to adjust a few things and I'm heavily leaning toward painting them a solid color as I feel, like the Torq Thrust before them, the polished lip makes the wheel look small. If anyone has questions about them I'll be happy to provide answers.


















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Old 07-23-2021, 03:44 PM   #283
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Nicely done, they look great and I'm really happy someone finally spent the time and effort (and $$$$$$$) to make it work. Looks killer.
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Old 07-23-2021, 03:54 PM   #284
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Nicely done, they look great and I'm really happy someone finally spent the time and effort (and $$$$$$$) to make it work. Looks killer.
Thanks Matt. I can't claim to be the first though, I was actually inspired by David Greenlee's beautiful P1800 hill climb car who assisted me with lots of answers to questions I had. He had less to contend with though as the wheels I'm using were not dimensionally favorable and required the extra effort of machining multiple surfaces among other items. Overall I'm pretty happy with the whole setup. You are correct though, at the end of the day this was $$$$ and no performance gain, in fact the the corner weights went up a few pounds. At least I'm pretty confident no else will try this anytime soon
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Old 08-19-2021, 02:15 PM   #285
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Enjoying a drive along the coast last weekend, escaping the 100+ degree inland heat!


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