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240 hydraulic clutch pedal pic

i drift volvos

cracker
Joined
Dec 6, 2006
Location
Mena, AR
Anyone have a pic of a 260 hydraulic clutch pedal or a modified 240 hydraulic clutch pedal? I'm going hydraulic now and trying to see where i need to start.

Thanks!
 
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Pics from 2006 when I bought it. Dropped right into my 240. The RHD pedal is different I've been told by someone who bought one for his LHD car...
 
Don't suppose that Clutch pedal would be for sale ? Never hurts to ask......


"Be good and you will be lonely" - Mark Twain
 
I know this is bringing it back but, does anyone happen to have the part number of the fittings that convert the slave and master to -3&-4AN?? I'm having trouble figureing out what to order for my 940 m46 conversion and I'd really like to keep it nice and clean with all SS lines.

Danny
 
I know this is bringing it back but, does anyone happen to have the part number of the fittings that convert the slave and master to -3&-4AN?? I'm having trouble figureing out what to order for my 940 m46 conversion and I'd really like to keep it nice and clean with all SS lines.

Danny

I've been compiling some of that here:
http://www.davebarton.com/hydraulicclutch.html
Dave B
 
I've been compiling some of that here:
http://www.davebarton.com/hydraulicclutch.html
Dave B

Great stuff, good info!

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I lenghtened and modified the stock left hand drive Volvo 240 cable clutch pedal. The stock pedal was cut so that the top part lenght was 3cm after the cut.

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The pedal needs to be 50mm longer than stock.

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Plates are welded on boths sides of the pedal. The plates and the middle part are all welded together as well. That creates a box section, which makes the pedal strong.

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I welded it with a very basic no-gas flux core mig. Not the prettiest weld, but totally good enough for a job of this kind. The upper part of the pedal is not visible once installed in the car.

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The distance from the end of the tube to the actuating arm is 7mm. Thickness of the arm is 6mm.

Many ways to do it. One good option would be building one pedal out of two stock ones.
 
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I did dimension my OEM hydra. pedal pulled from a NorCal boneyard by RWC.... .got the dims. somewhere. Find his FS thread, pics probably still up. I'm not planning to make a CAD drawing of it, but I can scan the dims. and host the pic.
 
thanks for all your insight greg, i really appreciate you lending the knowledge here, but i still have some questions if you don't mind.

1)i noticed you did this for your 240 v8 setup. i have a 900 though. will your original setup with the 90 degree elbow clear the firewall for me?

2) seeing that you had some lathing/machining to do with that earls fitting i am assuming a deep -3 still doesn't exist and ill have to do that as well if i have your same firewall issue?

thanks again

Danny
Note that on the Wilwood M/C, the thread of the adapter is 3/8-24 IF. The thread in the M/C itself is a -3 AN deep.

I detail that here:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=1228885#post1228885

Greg
 
The wilwood cylinder has a machined face on that fitting. For mine I just used a banjo bolt with crush washers. Seals down perfectly fine. No special machining needed.
 
1. Yeah, probably would hit the firewall in the 900, too. The height of the whole setup is just too much.

2. I haven't checked, but I'd be surprised if anything existed now.

Banjo bolt sounds like a good solution, too.

I also found that I went through a few Wilwood master cylinders, because the seals would just break down for some reason. I was using DOT 4 fluid in them, which I believe should be fine. I got sick of that and ordered a real Girling part, which is identical externally, but seems to have better seals inside. I have not had any problems with it. Pegasus Racing has them.
 
Wow that's a first!! Wilwood MC typically have good reps when it comes to wear and tear. Do you have a link for the Girling piece??
 
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