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Jared's '79 5.3 244 Project: The Qwikbrik

I think you need solid engine mounts. Then the engine can't lean over :)

Yeah, that's another option. I've ridden in/driven LS cars with solid mounts before. No real reason not to...it's so much smoother than a 4 cylinder.

Also, as I think about what to do for aux lights, it would make much more sense if I knew my existing headlights were working as well as they could.

So...I've ordered new adjuster nuts for both sides (which I'm surprised are still available, and $2 each)

That'll let me get my lights aimed perfectly. They're not horrible now, but I forgot that I kinda...made things work...when I put the H1/H4 ecodes in years ago.

Also ordered a relay harness for the headlights. I've been meaning to do this forever and just never got around to it. I just ordered BEST USA #1 H4 TOYOTA LED HARNESS BRIGHT LIGHT FIX GROUND PROBLEM, but I did pay a couple bucks extra for the harness that had a few reviews that mentioned heavier gauge wiring.

I'll have to splice in for the H1 high beams when I get it, but that's not bad. I just couldn't buy the pieces to build my own harness cheaper than buying a premade one.
 
I just ordered BEST USA #1 H4 TOYOTA LED HARNESS BRIGHT LIGHT FIX GROUND PROBLEM

now me, i ordered 1Set 2 Headlight Harness H4 Headlight Relay Harness H6054 H4 Relay Harness Toyota Pickup Headlights H4 Wiring Harness Headlight Relay Kit For Toyota 95-97 Tacoma 88-95 Pickup Fix Dual Ground Problem.
 
Well I haven't bought a dope ass vintage head unit yet, but I did pull the existing one out and figure out it just had a blown fuse. I fixed that, and I've got tunes again.

I did have a sub in here at one point and really liked the sound improvement, so this time I decided to go full overkill.

I'm about ready to start gluing and screwing the box together. It'll have about 2.9 cubic feet inside once you account for woofer displacement. I just ordered a pair of Kenwood 12" subs from Best Buy for $29 a piece on sale (!). Nothing great as far as audio equipment goes, but it'll get the job done.

I need to add a 3/4" thick trim strip around the bottom and far right of the port, didn't really think that through. Oh well. Also I need to build the inner port wall as well, haven't done that yet.

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I do have a JL Audio JD500/1 amp that should do just fine with the subs wired together as a 2Ω load.

Still head unit shopping though.
 
Finished building the box last weekend.

Hopefully I'll have the time to finish getting it painted and wired up this weekend.

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I’m fairly pleased with how this turned out. I’m sure someone who knows car audio would think it sounds like ****, but the bass is pretty clean to me.

I’ve set the gains the best I can by ear, I’ll mess with it using a meter at some point but it’s good enough for now. The amp has an led that lets you know that it’s clipping, so I just adjusted it so that almost never comes on.

Ran 4ga cable for the power back from the battery, fused close to the battery. I did use the same welding cable I used for the rest of the charging system since it’s 100% copper instead of copper clad aluminum, plus it matches everything else coming off the battery.

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358/347. As JD points out, this dynocom may be a bit optimistic, but that’s pretty healthy for what it is.
 
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358/347. As JD points out, this dynocom may be a bit optimistic, but that’s pretty healthy for what it is.

:zeeall::zeeall::zeeall:

hell yeah

Also +juan for JD, he's the man
 
Nice dyno run, love the sound.

What other stereo components are you using? You showed the subs, pretty sure you aren't running them off the head unit with factory front speakers. I hope :-P
 
Nice dyno run, love the sound.

What other stereo components are you using? You showed the subs, pretty sure you aren't running them off the head unit with factory front speakers. I hope :-P

For now, the head unit is some Kenwood thing I bought years ago. Front door speakers are 5.25" Kickers, also fairly old.

I have some 6.5 Infinity Reference component speakers I put in the rear doors circa 2009, since this car didn't originally come with rear speakers.

All the door speakers come right off the head unit.

The subs are powered from a JL Audio JD500/1 amp, and are wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load.

I'd like to finish up my front door speaker grille project and redo how those are mounted, probably replacing them honestly. Their best days are behind them. The rear door speakers are still fine, but their mounting could be cleaned up too. Some sealing of the door panels would probably help audio quality too.

But overall, I'm pretty happy with how it sounds. I'm no audiophile though.
 
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