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k-jet to lh

daveyseed

daveyseed

New member
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Location
NorCal
does anyone have a write up? im not realy interested in going to ms. heres some things i have looked up:

90+ manifolds,
plug k-jet holes
amm and box,
resistor pack

but witch harness? i guess thats the real issue, 82 242 turbo, i heard like an 88 240? with turbo 'puters? or can i keep the na ones and just run like freds chips?
 
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Depends if you want LH 2.2 or LH 2.4. With 2.4 you will need the heavy/dogdish/9" flywheel and clutch setup or equivalent automatic stuff. You will also need to drill and tap the block for the flywheel sensor which on a B21FT seems to be too high. My roommate discovered that the sensor was not close enough to the flywheel to pickup the signal so we had to grind down the bracket.

The big downside of 2.2 is there aren't as many options for chips. It is less work to convert to 2.2 though.
 
I know that there's not much interest in using MS ... but considering the relative universailty of it, there might be less work involved in using it.

The reason not to might be related to legailities; but if it's due to the amount of work involved, considering you're running a turbo 240, then the MS is probably the path of least resistance.
 
i want do do this too, but without the +t at the start. Saving this link. From what ive seen, you need the efi flywheel for the CRS. Intake mani, rail + injectors. Wiring harness and ECU. AMM, airbox, oh and all the stuff that comes on the intake e.g. Tb. It would be good to see some pics/writeups. According to a friend of mine, the conversion is not hard. But i have heard the opposite.
 
It's not that hard, just takes time and patience. Using a harness from a 240 keeps things simpler, you just have to add the resistor pack and extend the AMM wires and splice in the ICU wiring. I think I've made, or read, this list before, but here goes off the top of my head. i used 740 harnesses, which were a PAIN, and I needed 3 wiring diagrams to cross reference to figure out all the different colors. Damn volvo changed wiring colors over the years.
ECU
ICU
knock sensor
coolant temp sensor
2.2 distributor
amm
resistor pack
power stage
Radio suppression relay (i think this is optional, but for a direct swap just use it, the plug is in the harness)
rail and injectors

you can swap manifolds (this is easiest) or go with the kjet intake, modify or wire the tps, and modify the fuel rail to use the injectors in the k-jet holes.

I ended up going with 2.2 for simplicity and because I didn't plan to build the rest of the car to handle more power than 2.2 could manage (which was still over 200whp, which i was VERY pleased with). MS required more patience and tuning and learning than i was willing to deal with.
 
I did the swap about a yr ago still cant get it to run right, I must be missing something, I wanna drive this car. I went from k jet to 1985 jetronic out of a wagon, got fuel rail, injectors manifold , etc ecu, icu wired it up but the fuel pump wiring is whats getting me. I hooked up the red and black for the box to get power and red yellow to trigger the pump. The car will start but idles like its getting too much gas, if I floor it it revs great but it wont idle at all just wants to die. Its like the injectors arent opening and closing like they should, any replies help I dont want to send it to the scrap yard
 
The fuel pump can't cause the car to get too much fuel, there's a fuel-pressure regulator on the end of the fuel-rail which keeps the injectors seeing a constant pressure. Excess pressure is bled-off & the fuel goes back to the tank.

If your pumps are both running (check with a multimeter or test-light if you can't hear exactly which is which), then the problem isn't your wiring. It could be that one of the pumps is not working properly, it could even be inadequate fuel - you're sure the fuel filter isn't clogged (I presume you're using the K-Jet one mounted on the firewall)?

I presume you got all the LH-Jet parts out of the same car; including ignition & fuel components? I ask that because I'm fairly sure the dizzy you're using is the same as I'm using on mine (ie. it has no vacuum attachments for timing advance or retard), I don't think they're super-common on 240's & if you're using that dizzy with other ignition or ECU stuff then maybe the ignition isn't all fitting together properly & you're not getting the right advance (or retardation or whatever is needed) at idle?
 
or if you don't have the proper temperature sensor, or it's not plugged in, a zero signal means bottom of the temperature map and running extreme rich.
 
so all the sensors need to be changed to go to lh 2.2 from k-jet.... and another question i need cleared up is lh 2.2 deaf like k-jet, that was kinda the basis for the conversion, that and bigger injectors, i know need resisters or i read about and adjustable thingy rather than a bunch of ones linked. i was leaning away from 2.4 cause it needed that sensor on the fly wheel.
 
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What do you mean by "deaf like K-Jet"? Do you mean it doesn't have an O2 sensor in the exhaust? Because LH2.2 will need an O2 sensor for sure, and it may be different to whatever freaky sensor that K-Jet used (most of the world didn't have K-Jet with Lambda).

All sensors will need to be different. I would recommend you keep your old temperature sensor as well, because your temp-gauge in your dash will need it.

I just thought of a problem you will have. Your K-Jet head will not have the hole in it for the LH-Jet water temp sensor. I searched around a fair bit to find an LH-compatible sensor which would fit in the K-Jet hole (I didn't care so much about my temp-sensor as I was only running the K-Jet head temporarily), and I could not find one. The LH-Jet heads have the K-Jet hole, but the K-Jets head don't have the LH-Jet hole.
Putting the hole in the head is not hard, but you do have to take the head off to do it.
 
holtzboy said:
You will also need to drill and tap the block for the flywheel sensor which on a B21FT seems to be too high. My roommate discovered that the sensor was not close enough to the flywheel to pickup the signal so we had to grind down the bracket.
Click to expand...
Is that why everyone talks only LH 2.2? Please explain how is it high if that is missing there in the first place?
Shouldn't be very risky drilling job if you could make blueprint off of LH 2.4 bell housing.

daveyseed said:
not o2, knock. couldn't the temp sense be put somewhere else?
Click to expand...
Get a LH head: 530 or 531.
 
Lord_Athlon said:
lh 2.2 or ms is where its at.
Click to expand...

only if you are lazy and cheap :)

one plus to going LH2.4 is for when you do go MS, you already have crank position, so that is nice right there....

the sensor for the crank is not that big of deal, of course my motor was already out, not sure about how hard to access the back of the block with motor in the car...

as for the water temp sensor, adapter?
 
When I did 2.2 on my car, I just put the temp switch/sensor in the drain petcock hole. Pretty sure I had to make an adapter for it though. 3/8" NPT to 12x1.5mm.
 
I used the k-jet hole in the back of my 405 head and made an adapter to fit the smaller LH sensor.

2.2 does have knock sensor. It just doesn't "learn" like 2.4 does.
 
what does it take to do the crank sensor? i already have a 93 block, just put te sensor back in and use a flywheel of a 2.4 car? kjet head, 93 block m47.
 
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