soclosenotnear
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2011
- Location
- summerville, south carolina
Yass. Great looking wagon.
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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)
- Thread starter JohnMc
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2002
- Location
- mont, AL
ooof that .79 OD. I swapped to a 3.31 with the .75 final in the 4L80e to get the highway revs down below annoying(to me), so.. ymmv and what not.
The LS certainly doesn't need revs to make power, lol. *grunt* I was just sort of idling up hills this morning at 1500 rpm.
Looks about like 3000 rpm at 80 mph, +/- a few. it could probably stand to be more relaxed than that. And 1st gear feels a bit short.
Looks about like 3000 rpm at 80 mph, +/- a few. it could probably stand to be more relaxed than that. And 1st gear feels a bit short.
Marvelous3
Who engineered this?
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2002
- Location
- Atlanta
Brah. That engine bay looks clean! I’m jealous.
It's still leaking some PS fluid from somewhere, need to figure that out. And I think my cute little dipstick got a bit too hot yesterday - where it snakes up through the header. I was using something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-GM-L...641095?hash=item4d88905107:g:pcUAAOSwip5cNL6F
And I guess it's not supposed to get too toasty. I have the header's wrapped. The original dipstick tube just didn't fit. And I thought this flexible one which can easily be tucked where it needs to go would be a good idea. Lol, no. I guess I'll mangle the original one back and forth until it (sort of) fits. Certainly, there's nothing that will get too hot on a steel tube and a steel dipstick.
Also, that stock 197 degree thermostat is making me a bit nervous. Hotter than I feel comfortable with. And a lot of heat soak when you turn it off. And not only that but I have a suspicion that I ended up using the wrong thermostat. Since it looked good and functional I went ahead and used it. But when searching for a lower temp thermostat yesterday I found that there are short and long thermostats. And the later ones are a bit shorter, used from roughly 2007/2008 on up. And the earlier ones were a bit longer, used on earlier versions. And I used the thermostat that came with my 2008 LH8 Hummer motor, which is probably a short one. And I'm using a 2005-2008 Corvette water pump, which probably uses the longer version. The thermostat function itself works fine (it does clearly regulate at 200 degrees) but I'm thinking that it's not long enough to close off that bypass port, so a lot of the coolant is just going in circles in the block.
It's a bit on the warm side here, not thing too bad, mid 90's(ish). And I don't have too many miles on it so far, but I had noticed a tendency for it to start getting a bit warm under the collar when romped on a bit, only slowly cooling back down after some gentle driving. I'm hoping that's the wrong thermostat doing that. I have a big full width radiator in there (28X16), with two cooling fans that seem to move a lot of air. I'd like to think that's enough radiator to work.
And I guess it's not supposed to get too toasty. I have the header's wrapped. The original dipstick tube just didn't fit. And I thought this flexible one which can easily be tucked where it needs to go would be a good idea. Lol, no. I guess I'll mangle the original one back and forth until it (sort of) fits. Certainly, there's nothing that will get too hot on a steel tube and a steel dipstick.
Also, that stock 197 degree thermostat is making me a bit nervous. Hotter than I feel comfortable with. And a lot of heat soak when you turn it off. And not only that but I have a suspicion that I ended up using the wrong thermostat. Since it looked good and functional I went ahead and used it. But when searching for a lower temp thermostat yesterday I found that there are short and long thermostats. And the later ones are a bit shorter, used from roughly 2007/2008 on up. And the earlier ones were a bit longer, used on earlier versions. And I used the thermostat that came with my 2008 LH8 Hummer motor, which is probably a short one. And I'm using a 2005-2008 Corvette water pump, which probably uses the longer version. The thermostat function itself works fine (it does clearly regulate at 200 degrees) but I'm thinking that it's not long enough to close off that bypass port, so a lot of the coolant is just going in circles in the block.
It's a bit on the warm side here, not thing too bad, mid 90's(ish). And I don't have too many miles on it so far, but I had noticed a tendency for it to start getting a bit warm under the collar when romped on a bit, only slowly cooling back down after some gentle driving. I'm hoping that's the wrong thermostat doing that. I have a big full width radiator in there (28X16), with two cooling fans that seem to move a lot of air. I'd like to think that's enough radiator to work.
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2008
- Location
- Dallas, TX
Oof, thats horrible. With my 4l60 and a 3.73 rear end I'm at like 2600 at 80.
why is everyone so scared of the factory thermostats on these engine? GM stuck in there for a reason
Yeah, I'm just waiting a while to pick out a ratio for the Ford 8.8, certainly not going to change anything on the Volvo axle in the meantime.
I think GM was doing the 200 degree engine temps for emissions. Or something. Dunno, it would be sort of nice to have a little more headroom if you start outstripping the cooling system under hard use. I think the couple of slight bouts with overheating are all related to the wrong thermostat thing, though.
I think GM was doing the 200 degree engine temps for emissions. Or something. Dunno, it would be sort of nice to have a little more headroom if you start outstripping the cooling system under hard use. I think the couple of slight bouts with overheating are all related to the wrong thermostat thing, though.
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That crappy dipstick did a little more damage than I first thought. I spent yesterday evening taking things off the passenger side of the engine. Some of the smoke I saw was apparently some burning insulation and oil. I burned up a couple of sparkplug wires inside their sleeves, and the starter and knock sensor wiring. Damn dipstick.
Also, the cheap eBay header wrap I got was falling apart already for some reason. Couldn't handle the heat? I got some more expensive stuff that can handle 2500 degrees (in theory). And some different spark plug wires. And some 2500 degree sleeves for them. The freaking dipstick thing is starting to irk me. I'm using Hummer H3 engine mount brackets that move the engine 1.25 inches forward, which helps with a variety of other fitment issues (from the trans to the turbo to the steering colum/header), but that combined with the STS moor mounts means that the dipstick has very little room, it's tucked partly under the mount and it has to come out at an angle. And then there's the starter *right* there too.
Also, the cheap eBay header wrap I got was falling apart already for some reason. Couldn't handle the heat? I got some more expensive stuff that can handle 2500 degrees (in theory). And some different spark plug wires. And some 2500 degree sleeves for them. The freaking dipstick thing is starting to irk me. I'm using Hummer H3 engine mount brackets that move the engine 1.25 inches forward, which helps with a variety of other fitment issues (from the trans to the turbo to the steering colum/header), but that combined with the STS moor mounts means that the dipstick has very little room, it's tucked partly under the mount and it has to come out at an angle. And then there's the starter *right* there too.
Also - I apparently cracked the pivot ball in my CBF shifter. There's a plastic ball that slides up on the shifter and engages a pin on the shifter itself, and then that slides into a couple of pins in the shifter housing. Is that a common design? Dunno. But it's a hard plastic ball that handles all the twisting forces applied to the shifter. Normally - what twisting forces? None! But I have a shifter relocation thing - it bolts onto the shifter over there, and reaches sideways over the here (imagine hand gestures) to put the shifter knob right where it's supposed to be - even though the CBF shifter is a bit too far forward and to the left. And when I bolted that onto the shifter, apparently I got a little too happy with the wrench, put too much force on the ball, and cracked it in half. Still surprisingly drivable, but it had more wiggle. And with 6 gears and reverse all packed into a few inches of movement... not great. I messaged the CBF guy, he's sending me a f-replacment.
poulrais
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2006
- Location
- Quebec, CAN
And I was using a cheap as hell eBay special oil scavenge pump. Which made horrible noises. And leaked oil. And generally made me nervous about it failing under sustained use (which would be bad). So I chickened out and got a Turbowerx scavenge pump. Which was not dirt cheap, but looks nice, has cooling fins, and is almost totally silent and is designed to be run dry for long periods of time (if need be). And presumably doesn't leak.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2002
- Location
- mont, AL
a scavenge pump for what? the turbo?
I swapped in a colder thermostat on mine (180 I think? maybe 170?), it still has a tendency to get warm on the interstate with the a/c on and a yoooge radiator. It's worth noting that while GM may have put those in from the factory for a reason (emissions), they also didn't turbocharge the engines from the factory either, and with headers and crossovers and what not, there's a lot of extra heat hanging out under-hood.
Another thing to keep in mind, and I didn't know this.. if you're using volvo heater control valve and such, apparently there's some kind of coolant block that allows it to bypass the valve and return. not sure if you've heard about that or not (there's so much information out there it's hard to separate the wheat from the chaff), but that could be part of it too. I didn't know about the different length thermostats. I think I checked mine, but hell I dunno. I reckon I'll take a gander later this fall when I take it all apart for R&R
I swapped in a colder thermostat on mine (180 I think? maybe 170?), it still has a tendency to get warm on the interstate with the a/c on and a yoooge radiator. It's worth noting that while GM may have put those in from the factory for a reason (emissions), they also didn't turbocharge the engines from the factory either, and with headers and crossovers and what not, there's a lot of extra heat hanging out under-hood.
Another thing to keep in mind, and I didn't know this.. if you're using volvo heater control valve and such, apparently there's some kind of coolant block that allows it to bypass the valve and return. not sure if you've heard about that or not (there's so much information out there it's hard to separate the wheat from the chaff), but that could be part of it too. I didn't know about the different length thermostats. I think I checked mine, but hell I dunno. I reckon I'll take a gander later this fall when I take it all apart for R&R
Yeah, I used a surge/drain tank and a scavenge pump. The way the turbo sits is fairly low, and there's crossover pipes and wastegates between it and the block, I dunno, I just sort of punted on trying to get a good gravity drain and just tucked it all into the space inside the front fender corner. Drilled a hole for the drain pipe, into a little tank (1L, +/-) and a pump that pushes the oil back up to the oil cap on the passenger valve cover.
And I am using a GM bypass valve on the heater lines: https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-74882-Pressure-Bypass/dp/B004AF34DQ
It's used on some GM crapboxes. When the heater circuit is open, the coolant flows through it. When the heater valve closes - pressure builds up and pushes a valve open and it short-cuts the heater and returns. Seems to work, just by feeling the lines. When I have the heat off in the car both of the engine side hoses stay hot and the heater side is cooler. Turn the heat on in the car and they're all hot.
And I am using a GM bypass valve on the heater lines: https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-74882-Pressure-Bypass/dp/B004AF34DQ
It's used on some GM crapboxes. When the heater circuit is open, the coolant flows through it. When the heater valve closes - pressure builds up and pushes a valve open and it short-cuts the heater and returns. Seems to work, just by feeling the lines. When I have the heat off in the car both of the engine side hoses stay hot and the heater side is cooler. Turn the heat on in the car and they're all hot.
- Joined
- May 11, 2007
- Location
- Niketown, OR
I need that.
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2008
- Location
- Dallas, TX
I dont but Im curious if this would get an even cooler ac when the heater valve is completely closed.
And there was no issue with the thermostat length. Not sure if that's jsut another case where the LH8 is a weird mix of Gen3 and Gen4 components (a good mix, FWIW) but the 2005 Corvette water pump and the 2008 Hummer water pump both use the same length thermostats. So at least I put in a lower temp thermostat. It never actually overheated, dunno, I was just a bit nervous watching that temp gauge.
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2009
- Location
- Monterey/Falun
What does the temp sit around during normal driving? mine sits around 185-190 max. except when i get stuck in super ****ty bay area traffic for hours on end, ive seen it get nuclear hot a few times but nothing bad has ever really happened. one time it did lock up but it was well over 280, temp gun said somewhere in the low 300s. i did initially have issues with the volvo heater control valve causing a overheat situation when i had it on the coolest setting. now i just set it to the middle and close the vents and its fine.