- Joined
- May 3, 2010
- Location
- LFK
Thank you, Shane! It's in good hands
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1994 945 Turbo Ultimate DD Build
- Thread starter threewagons
- Start date
- Joined
- May 3, 2010
- Location
- LFK
Got my head back from the machine shop!
I told them that I wanted the valve throats opened up to match the larger seat cut, but they just did a 60* cut without actually making the throat larger. I felt the price was fair for the work I had done, so instead of taking it back and waiting I took the valves out and carefully opened them up with a carbide burr bit.
Moral of the story, tell your machinist precisely what you want with dimensions. In my case, I opened the intake throats to 40.5mm and the exhaust throats to 33.4mm.
I measured the volumes of the combustion chambers when I got it back, they were all within .5cc, approximately 46cc. I was aiming for 45cc but (I think) I didn't take into account that the new valves would sit lower in the seat when the seat is the proper size.
Old SCR 8.5:1
Old DCR 7.7:1 (cam at 0*)
New SCR: 9.1:1
New DCR: 8.3:1 (cam at 0*)
Milled .053"
Stock size throat with seats cut for 46/38 valves:
After enlarging the throats:
Valves/cam re-installed
At max lift:
I told them that I wanted the valve throats opened up to match the larger seat cut, but they just did a 60* cut without actually making the throat larger. I felt the price was fair for the work I had done, so instead of taking it back and waiting I took the valves out and carefully opened them up with a carbide burr bit.
Moral of the story, tell your machinist precisely what you want with dimensions. In my case, I opened the intake throats to 40.5mm and the exhaust throats to 33.4mm.
I measured the volumes of the combustion chambers when I got it back, they were all within .5cc, approximately 46cc. I was aiming for 45cc but (I think) I didn't take into account that the new valves would sit lower in the seat when the seat is the proper size.
Old SCR 8.5:1
Old DCR 7.7:1 (cam at 0*)
New SCR: 9.1:1
New DCR: 8.3:1 (cam at 0*)
Milled .053"
Stock size throat with seats cut for 46/38 valves:
After enlarging the throats:
Valves/cam re-installed
At max lift:
- Joined
- May 3, 2010
- Location
- LFK
I couldn't find a valve stem height spec from Volvo for the machinist, the greenbook just shows a special go/no-go tool that lays in the camshaft journal to check the installed valve stem height. Thankfully Culberro was able to give me a real spec: 1.015"-1.025" below the valve cover rail should put the valves within the most common shim range, 3.9-4.1mm
Perhaps the new valves are a few tenths of a millimeter shorter than the original ones, but I needed to order some larger shims than what I had laying around. I don't think they could have cut the seats much lower without getting into the head itself.
The left column is current shims, middle is lash clearance, right column is shim needed.
Perhaps the new valves are a few tenths of a millimeter shorter than the original ones, but I needed to order some larger shims than what I had laying around. I don't think they could have cut the seats much lower without getting into the head itself.
The left column is current shims, middle is lash clearance, right column is shim needed.
- Joined
- May 3, 2010
- Location
- LFK
Multitasking last weekend while taking the old head off 
- Joined
- May 3, 2010
- Location
- LFK
Two year old hushers...
- Joined
- May 3, 2010
- Location
- LFK
I was hoping to get the car running this weekend but my shims won't be here until next week. Went ahead and installed the new head and reassembled everything I can without them.
New hardware/freshened up:
The 90+ was cracked of course. I did my best to repair the cracks with silicon bronze. You can see my ugly silicon bronze mig braze on the top of the collector. I don't want to share my repair method until it's been tested New P2 turbo gaskets installed
Fresh studs for the intake and thermostat housing:
New timing belt, tensioner, tensioner spring. Just waiting on shims now!
New hardware/freshened up:
The 90+ was cracked of course. I did my best to repair the cracks with silicon bronze. You can see my ugly silicon bronze mig braze on the top of the collector. I don't want to share my repair method until it's been tested
New P2 turbo gaskets installed
Fresh studs for the intake and thermostat housing:
New timing belt, tensioner, tensioner spring. Just waiting on shims now!
- Joined
- May 3, 2010
- Location
- LFK
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2009
- Location
- NW Georgia
Do you think the 90+ exhaust will meet your power goals? Already got a nice 3" downpipe thru at least the CAT?
FWIW, there are nice Swedish custom exhaust headers that fit the 7/9 chassis. With all the head work you've completed, you might find the exhaust manifold as the next resistor. Great work, you are doing things RIGHT which is refreshing.
FWIW, there are nice Swedish custom exhaust headers that fit the 7/9 chassis. With all the head work you've completed, you might find the exhaust manifold as the next resistor. Great work, you are doing things RIGHT which is refreshing.
magicianman89
Member
- Joined
- May 3, 2017
- Location
- Murfreesboro, TN
Very very nice. That valve cover looks beautiful. Good to see progress on this car again
- Joined
- May 3, 2010
- Location
- LFK
Yep, it's 3" from turbo to tailpipe.
I'm sure both the intake and exhaust manifolds are restrictions at this point, but I don't love the idea of changing the mounting location of the turbo. I've toyed with the idea of making a jig with my spare 90+ and building a tubular mild steel manifold that is the same dimensions.
I don't have a power goal in mind but I hope this will put me near 350whp, which means I'll probably need to look into a stronger transmission next....
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2009
- Location
- NW Georgia
You can reduce restriction on the intake side with the B21 KJet intake; runners are 3~5mm larger than the stock B230 late intake. Plenum is quite large.....a few tricks to installing into a 7/9 but it can be done. If you decide to go this route, I've got several in the hoard so shoot me a PM.
My gut says the B21 intake will definitely move the restriction to the 90+. If you search, Nathan built some tubular steel replacements for the 90+, although unknown how many. SquareD had one, so you could shoot him a line to see where it went.
Don't know exactly where the AW71 starts to fail from the additonal torque. Folks here have blown them up, so empirical evidence is on record. Lankku has put some BIG numbers thru the 1041 Dana so that won't give up the ghost first.
- Joined
- May 3, 2010
- Location
- LFK
Thank you for the offer, but I think when I go for a better intake I'll go with a big plenum style from KL racing.
Whether it's the kjet intake or a aftermarket it's a fair amount of work to get everything working, and a plenum intake has a lot more headroom.
- Joined
- May 3, 2010
- Location
- LFK
Got the correct shims and got the car running on Tuesday 
I noticed that the new OEM cam seal has a slightly smaller ID than the Elring. I've used Elring cam seals before without issue, but the Volvo one looks like it has a better/larger sealing surface to the camshaft.
In the 4th photo you can see how the tensioner fits with the head decked .053", it's definitely approaching the limit of the tensioner's effective range. I don't think the belt will stretch enough to max out the tensioner but I'm going to double check after I get some miles on the car.
Custom cam lock tool for torquing the cam gear
Ready to run
I noticed that the new OEM cam seal has a slightly smaller ID than the Elring. I've used Elring cam seals before without issue, but the Volvo one looks like it has a better/larger sealing surface to the camshaft.
In the 4th photo you can see how the tensioner fits with the head decked .053", it's definitely approaching the limit of the tensioner's effective range. I don't think the belt will stretch enough to max out the tensioner but I'm going to double check after I get some miles on the car.
Custom cam lock tool for torquing the cam gear
Ready to run
magicianman89
Member
- Joined
- May 3, 2017
- Location
- Murfreesboro, TN
My cam locking/torque wrench tool of choice is a Milwaukee 3/8 impact
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2009
- Location
- NW Georgia
You could also grind a flat on the near side of that belt tensioner stud once the belt stretches a bit (however HTD belts are quite good; very commonly used in power transmission in industry). If all that stud does is hold the tensioner solid, you'll be good. Looking forward to seeing the head's movement of your previous torque curve.
- Joined
- May 3, 2010
- Location
- LFK
IPD Billet Cam Concerns - 2024 Edition!
I figured I'd make a new thread to document this. I just finished building a ported/big valve cylinder head for my 940. I swapped my IPD turbo cam (purchased in December 2021) from my old cylinder head to the new one, and purchased new shims from IPD a few weeks ago. After about 150 miles of...
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