Well, I've been driving this thing around now with no problems thing drives like a new car. Until I was driving down i5 just after the i205 intersection going north and it lost power for a second then came back on kept doing that so I took the exit I was going to anyway and it died and wouldn't start back up so I coasted off the highway and down onto a side road right by a gas station I was pretty close to empty so figured id get some gas. still no start so I called for my insurance roadside assistance which is 24hr 7 days a week and it took them 2 days to get a tow company to come tow my car.
got the car home and started doing some testing had spark had fuel had injector pulse no codes disconnected maf nothing worked so I dug out the dvom and started checking things.
ran the self-diagnosis with the diagnostic connecter inside the engine bay and everything was working as it should injector idle control motor EGR cold start injector. was getting spark and fuel. I pulled the fuel just for ****s and giggles and every injector fell apart the pintles were sitting in the manifold with the spacers and seals. fixed that by buying new pintles and seals. all injectors had even resistance. wasn't high or low. I didn't check for spray pattern as I was pressed for time so I put it back together.
The throttle switch was clicking as it should but I checked the voltage no Bueno, had another one solved that problem still no start.
I checked the fuel pressure wasn't even close to what it should be, it was like 15psi and tested the fpr with a vacuum pump it worked no fuel smell either from it. checked voltage to tank pump it was getting required voltage ground was ok as well so the tank pump was dead no noise at all. so I figured since they both looked original and replaced them both with new ones. I also changed the fuel filter and got a new fuel line between the pump and filter.
I also replaced the rotor and cap because when I took the cap off the center electrode was non-existant and the rotor had like 1.08kohms resistance at the 20k range and if I check for continuity it has none.?????
I also bought a new relay for the fuel pumps. still, no start hrmm started cussing and swearing at it, I cranked it over and it started and ran for like an hr sitting there I could rev it fine burned rubber holding the car in place with the brake. so I buttoned everything back up. shut it off
started it and it cranked right up and started. so got cleaned up and came back down to go do some work on a friend's quad and made about a block from home and it dies won't start. called my friend to come to tow me back to my place **** the roadside assistance I paid for lol wasn't going to go threw that again.
so I was pretty frustrated with coming back to it 2 days later and the fuel pumps weren't turning on. hmmm, put the old relay back in vroom started, and ran great except if I got on it it would buck and detonate ran fine as long as I stayed out of full-throttle or any kind of hard acceleration. so checked the wiring at the relay it's fine and clean doesn't look like it got hot. now I tonight I was out on a job and started the car to come home it dies and won't start I messed with the wiring harness by the coil and it starts up and runs so I drive it home and went out to go to the store it won't start. no spark at the plugs. check for a spark at the coil bright blue spark. brand new cap and rotor so I pulled them off rotor has 1.05kohms at the 20k range and no continuity. so off to the parts store tomorrow to get another one.
I have decided I am going to go to coil over plugs screw this cap and rotor bull****. cant get any parts that last more than a few days anymore its frustrating. I don't know why volvo kept it the distributor doesn't even have a hall sensor in it. or a pickup coil. computer controlled timing so why keep a substandard system on a much better ecu and ignition computer system.
bleh rant over